I'm barely using the car during these difficult times and would like to keep the battery well topped up. I have thought of attaching a charger (Ctek) via the permanent live and earth in the 13 pin trailer socket. Does this seem reasonable? Ian.
2013 LR2 SD4 XS
1982 Moto Guzzi V50
1952 Norton ES2

The rear permanently live power point is easier with the adapter

Do you mean the cigarette socket by the rear seats.?

you could use that one as it’s permanently live , but I use the boot one as it seems easier for the lead and the lead seems to be ok with the tailgate closing on it.

I use the trailer socket to connect my Ctek as described by the OP. No problems with that.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Thanks all, I think using the trailer socket is the way to go. Ian.
2013 LR2 SD4 XS
1982 Moto Guzzi V50
1952 Norton ES2

Hi,
I will second what Bob says

use the same method on all the cars we have/had even though it is the cheaper Lidl charger

if you have a look in "The Shop" think you will find Martin sells them as well

link added.



https://www.disco3.co.uk/shop/tow-electric...c-p45.html .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf

I always connect to the battery in the normal way. Then feed the mains cable down from the windscreen and under the bonnet at the rear where the space is left by the removed battery cover. That way the bonnet can be closed and all electrics are under the bonnet and kept dry.
The added bonus is that with a mains cable draped across the windscreen I am unlikely to forget and drive off with it still connected.

Mine is also laid up. It's in the garage but wonder if there's anything else I should do apart from keeping the battery maintained with a CTEK Charger?

If your not going to move the car for a few months (quite likely) it is worth pumping the tyres up to maximum indicated on the tyre wall (not in the manual) this will help stop the tyres forming flats in the carcass.

Better of course to raise the car off the wheels onto stands......but that’s for geeks

Just remember if you raise the pressures to check before running on the road again. Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

I have the OEM Continental ContiCrossContact UHP Tyres (235/55 R19 105W XL) but can't find a maximum pressure on the tyre wall. The Continental Website doesn't have pressure details either. Am I not looking hard enough on the tyres?

Never drove on Contis but it could be in the very small print with max or maximum next to it. Try looking close to where the tire seals to the rim?

Metropolis wrote:

I have the OEM Continental ContiCrossContact UHP Tyres (235/55 R19 105W XL) but can't find a maximum pressure on the tyre wall. The Continental Website doesn't have pressure details either. Am I not looking hard enough on the tyres?

I spoke to a very helpful chap at Continental Technical Support. They recommend just pumping the tyres up to the "fully laden" pressure shown in the handbook even though the vehicle is unladed. He also mentioned that flat spots tend not to be a problem in the warmer months because the casing is more flexible and tends to run out any flat spot as soon as the vehicle is used again.

Helpful advice!

That’ll do it.......

But even in cold weather after 10-15 miles of medium/high speed the tyres will be at high enough temperatures anyway, it’s just in Summer it takes less time, but having the tyres at high pressure helps a lot, as they said. Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......