Righto, so my last thread started getting super off-topic from what i was initially hoping to fix, so hopefully its ok to just start it under a new one (previous thread here for reference: https://www.freel2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=381718#381718 )

Ive currently replaced:
- Fuel Pump
- Glow Plugs
- Crankshaft Sensor
- Fuel Filter

Bled the fuel through the filter, and still just cranking and not firing up.

Fires up fine with easy start but cuts out straight away.

-

I got some live data from my bluetooth OBD reader while cranking over:
Engine RPM: 200 rpm
Fuel Rail Pressure: 240 kPa

Does the 200 rpm confirm the Crankshaft Sensor is working fine?

With the above information, can anybody help point me to any other area's to investigate? Or any other live data logs worth checking on and reporting back on?

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Thanks in advance, this forum has proven much more useful than any other resource including some mechanics so far!

Probably not much help but I replaced my fuel filter yesterday
And I’m sure when I checked the fuel pressure was much higher than 240
I’ll check again tomorrow and give you the figures

What make of crankshaft sensor did you use?

The new one I fitted yesterday was Intermotor

I have another one ordered for tomorrow which is Blueprint, bit tempted to cancel the order if the Intermotor one it's giving a correct reading?

The following ones, made/endorsed by known manufacturers, are verified by various users and work:

Febi 31198
SWAG 62931198
Facet 90458
ERA 550014
PEUGEOT 9637466980
FORD 1690470

I believe your BluePrint has the code ADM57214 and is endorsed by the same Bilstein Group, like Febi and SWAG.

You can add NGK to the list of good sensors

I havnt picked up the blueprint one yet... Should i just use the Blueprint, or go in search for one of the brands you mentioned?

Does the RPM reading i mentioned not confirm the crankshaft is working? or is that something else?

Make sure you order the correct crankshaft postion sensor there are three different part numbers based on your Vin number they look the same and will physically fit in situ but will not work when you crank the engine over you have you get the right one for your Vin.

Last edited by AJ918 on 26th Nov 2019 11:13 am. Edited 1 time in total

To me the rpm reading suggests the crank sensor is working, at least mostly.

There's also a camshaft position sensor which is used when starting the engine. The crankshaft rotates twice for each cycle of the engine, so the ECM needs to know not only where the crank is, but also which cylinder is in which part of its cycle - it gets this during cranking from the camshaft position sensor. If the cam sensor has failed the ECM won't know when to fire the injectors.

Are you seeing any engine error codes?

Quote:

The CMP sensor is mounted at the front of the engine behind the exhaust camshaft drive pulley. The sensor tip protrudes through a hole in the cylinder head cover, and is positioned close to the camshaft pulley target area. The position of the sensor to the camshaft pulley is adjustable.

The sensor is a variable reluctance sensor that provides a signal of No. 1 cylinder camshaft position to the ECM. The information is used by the ECM to determine the precise moment for injection during engine cranking.

Thanks pab for that, i dont want to go keep replacing the crankshaft sensor, if its actually working fine. Otherwise its just endless money replcing already working parts.

Im getting:
P0087: Fuel Rail/System pressure too low

Would there be any tests/readings via the OBD i could do for the Camshaft sensor also?

Quote:

Would there be any tests/readings via the OBD i could do for the Camshaft sensor also?

New Crankshaft Sensor made no difference, so going to return the Intermotor one and keep the Blueprint one.

Unable to remove the camshaft sensor at the moment as the bolt is worn away, so will have to screw that out at some point to be able to replace it.

Checked my startup parameters.
Cranking RPM: about 180.
Cranking pressure: about 280-300 bars, and once started stayed, at about 240 bars.

Therefore, I believe your 200 RPM / 240 (???) will be OK for starting.
Hope you've meant here 24000 kPa (240 bars), not 240 kPa (2.4 bars), like you've written... Hope it's a typo. If not, 240 kPa (2.4 bars) is waaay to low for starting.

So, as long as in the back of the injectors the pressure is OK, seems that the injectors are told to stay shut. Why so... remains to be seen.
The camshaft sensor will be next to see...

BUT...

If you are able to do this, check all wires, one by one, for continuity between sensors, injectors, etc. to the ECU.
And check for signs of oxidation on the ECU, sensors, injectors, etc. connectors.
Electrical schematics are in the service manual you've downloaded.
It will be not the first time, on this car, a wire gets interrupted somewhere in the harness.

Thanks for that Alex, I replaced the crankshaft sensor today and got a reading of about 180 rpm.

So I'll get the other Intermotor one returned.

I'm fairly sure the kPa wasn't a typo, screenshot here:


It's at.240kPa whether the engine is cranking or not, I can get it to increase but only with easy start spray (but again cuts out)

Will try drill out the cam sensor screw tomorrow (completely rusted and rounded off), and replace that tomorrow.

Will pass those checks on to somebody else, I'm not sure how I'd go about getting those readings are where to start unfortunately

Hi just curious did you put a new fuel pump or a second had one? Because as previously stated 240 Kpa is very low, it should read that when engine not running but as soon as you start cranking it should increase dramatically to 10000 or 15000 then around 23500 when idling with some fluctuation.

Also did you pull fuel from the tank ok? As I’ve had problems with the pump in the tank not circulating correctly I.e one half of the tank full and the other empty. So still reading half full but no fuel in the side of the pick up. If that makes sense.