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Home > Technical > 2007 2.2 - Cranking over but not firing up
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

The book says 3.6 ohms at 20 deg.C, but, in the meantime, such low resistance, if not measured with a proper ohmmeter, could indicate zero.
In the meantime, a zero value (a short), like RAC guy said, will trigger an error code in ECU, but you said that there were none.
Anyway, we will see... I am curious if I was right about the rail PCV (pressure control valve).

Post #381971 29th Nov 2019 6:29 pm
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mdis89



Member Since: 01 Feb 2019
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 

Is the pressure control valve different to the pressure regulator?

Right hand side of the common fuel rail

Post #381973 29th Nov 2019 6:36 pm
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

The same. Is the one in the picture.
Try to power it up with a 12V supply and see if it clicks and the center rod is moving.
If yes, there is 50% chance that it's not it...

Post #381975 29th Nov 2019 6:59 pm
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mdis89



Member Since: 01 Feb 2019
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 

RAC tried that earlier, it sounded like it was clicking, but no center rod moving at all (he was expecting it to be moving also)

Post #381979 29th Nov 2019 7:55 pm
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Ali_1422



Member Since: 26 Nov 2019
Location: Somerset
Posts: 5

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Barolo Black

Have you done a leak off test?

Post #381980 29th Nov 2019 8:12 pm
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mdis89



Member Since: 01 Feb 2019
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 

So went a bought a new fuel rail incl. regulator. I couldnt get the old regulator off, so just replaced the whole rail.

The pressure before cranking now, is about 1220kPa





However, same as before, keeps cranking then after 5-10 seconds or so, pressure increases, then eventually cuts out:



This should have been a part off of a working vehicle, so shouldnt be any issues with the regulator now... Still no fire up Sad

Post #382018 30th Nov 2019 3:49 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Im suffering with the same problem, I’ve just reinstalled the head and can get the car to crank and start with Aerostart but not do anything on its own. My fuel rail pressure is still low (750psi while cranking) but I’m not getting any error codes.

Post #382242 4th Dec 2019 10:47 pm
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mdis89



Member Since: 01 Feb 2019
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 

Does it run normally once you get it going with easystart? Or does it cut out straight after you stop spraying it?

Post #382244 4th Dec 2019 10:56 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

It tends to cut out soon after I stop spraying though I’m not giving it huge amounts of the stuff, just 1 and 2 second bursts. I’m just about to check that I bolted on the fuel pump properly and check all the fuses. Have you had any luck?

Post #382255 5th Dec 2019 6:50 am
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mdis89



Member Since: 01 Feb 2019
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 

If youve had the fuel pump off, or anything else just ensure that the fuel system has been bled properly.

Things to check would be everything ive done in this thread so far, so;
Fuel filter - ensure not blocked and bled properly.
Fuses
High pressure fuel pump
Fuel rail
And finally ECU (i havnt checked this one).


Ive finally given up with mine, but had a call from the garage yesterday. They couldnt fix it either, however they mentioned the ECU was giving a Negative Reading for the fuel pressure (i think). So theyre moving it to a diesel specialist.

Annoyed that it couldnt be easily fixed, fairly happy its something bigger than id be able to do myself.

Post #382261 5th Dec 2019 10:35 am
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

I’ve just spent an hour or so removing the fuel pump, check it was all or together and then reattaching it. I couldn’t see any problems. I then spent some time bleeding it and I actually removed the lines into the fuel pump until the fuel came through and reattaching them when all the air was out. I’m now convinced that the fuel rail is getting fuel as I loosened some of the piping at the injectors and it didn’t look like fuel was in there. Please keep me posted on what the diesel specialist finds.

Post #382263 5th Dec 2019 10:59 am
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mdis89



Member Since: 01 Feb 2019
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 

Visually, there may look like there is nothing wrong with the pump, but it still could have gone as its made up of other components.

While it was off, did you check the cam to see if it was chipped/broken?

Will update here once i hear back from the garage anyway Smile

Post #382264 5th Dec 2019 11:03 am
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

I did check the cam and everything seemed
fine. I assume the link/key that sits on the end of the hp fuel pump and slots into the cam isn’t locked in any way and just sits on the end of the pump? I’m a bit stumped as to why the pump isn’t pushing the fuel through to the rail. I would have thought it was the fuel regulator but having read the previous posts I’m now not convinced.

Post #382316 6th Dec 2019 12:05 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Have you had any word back from the diesel specialist?

Post #382605 12th Dec 2019 7:44 am
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mdis89



Member Since: 01 Feb 2019
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 

So aparently... The Diesel specialist says the fuel in the car doesnt smell right. Not sure what could cause that, but... yeah.

Also, all 4 injectors are completely blocked. The worst they have ever seen.

So, theyre attempting to flush the injectors out, and take all the existing diesel out the system.

If they cant unblock them, its looking at 4 new injectors at 300+ +VAT each :/

Post #382635 12th Dec 2019 2:35 pm
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