Hi there,

I'm new to this site, I have a 59 freelander 2 TD4 auto, when I'm doing 50-60mph at 1800rpm I get a bad vibration from under the car, I orrigonally thought it was mechanical but this issue went away for 3 months last year but now it's back so I'm thinking it could be electrical, can anyone help,

Thanks,

Jason.

Hi,I’ve got this problem too and all I can say is good luck and if you ever get to the bottom your perticular fault please share. If you search this forum there are tons of posts and discussion on this problem. Even brand new ones have had the same annoying vibrations . Many owners have had lots of components replaced from diffs to driveshafts transfer boxes engine mounts wheel bearings .. the list goes on ..most of the time even for the dealers it seems to be trial and error . First things I would check to rule out .. check for play in all four driveshafts inner and outer cv joints, propshaft joints and bearings also look at exhaust mountings and engine mountings for excessive movement also check wheel bearings . look at the bearing in the middle of the drivers side driveshaft for any play. The problem is with all the engine gearbox torque converter transfer box propshaft diff and driveshafts all been connected the vibrations can resonate through and make it really hard to pin down . I’m now thinking mine is a gearbox / transfer box issue and it does seem to affect the autos more .. I’m hoping one day something will go bang or make so much noise so I can then know what it is .Tim

in both my TD4 Auto and my SD4 Auto there was a vibration at around 1800rpm - 2000rpm at 65-70mph. If I increased to just over 70mph the vibration went away. Its almost like the gearing in 6th gear is not quite right for UK motorway speeds.

both my manual TD4's vibrated regardless as they both suffered with clutch/DMF failure.

On a previous car (Signum) I had vibration at certain speeds around 60 - 80mph.

I could not track it down, but luckily??? it got worse, and became a tinny flapping sound at certain speeds.

It turned out to be a loose exhaust guard, which I cured with some self tappers and penny washers.

Just a thought, its easy to forget that your FL2 is ploughing through the air and things vibrate. (just listen to a car with a roof rack going past) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Previous one had a small vibration / rattle. Small stones known to get between exhaust guard. Worth a check. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Have you tried having your wheels balanced?

I've had new tyres all round all wheels balanced, tracking done, this seems to be a common problem on the fl2 but not even land rover have the answer! I'm still convinced it's electrical, I've replaced the MAP and MAF sensor, thanks for all your comments.

Hi all
I also have a vibration but it only happens every 15 to 16 seconds doing 60 to 70 mph (2009 auto hse) is this the same as you get ?

if I speed up or slow down it goes but it sounds the same, did you find a cure?

Not yet, I have also had new tyres fitted and balanced made no difference. its booked in for the rear diff soon I'm hoping that has something to do with it.

let me no if it fixes the fault.

I’ve just been driving the mrs car around for a week and just got back into freelander to fetch a big rug on a50 mile round trip and after not driving it for a while I seem to really notice how bad the vibration is especially as talk on this topic has come up again . My brother has a basic fl2 manual with double the mileage of my auto HSE and it drives silky smooth . It really is annoying to drive but I still love it and for 10 years old it’s it lovely condition inside and out but with the dam vibrations it drives like an “old” car . Hopefully will one day get to the bottom of it so any more ideas out there welcome thanks

The vibration in mine is always at around 1800 revs and isn't related to the actual speed the car is travelling. Under the right conditions I can make it happen in any gear at any speed. There needs to be a little load on the car such as an uphill gradient, and a feather touch on the accelerator, just enough for it to load the motor but not to kick back a gear and increase the revs. Once it kicks back, my vibration is gone. If I'm towing, the extra load makes it easier to happen. I drive on cruise control and the first inkling of vibration, I change to sport mode and drop a gear. When the load has decreased such as cresting a hill, I put it back in auto. I'm waiting for something to break so I can fix it. I don't fancy just replacing everything adhoc hoping it was the cause. I've already done a cv and that was a different vibration.

I had a vibration in a company car in a previous life, actually more likely two lives ago! Could not work it out for a year, & I looked after a company car even though I still owned my own Peugeot, petrol was cheaper in the company car! It ended up being a slightly low tyre pressure on either of the rear wheels.

As mikehzz has stated don't replace everything before you really know the cause of the problem. you know it is at 1800, but is it always happening on every road & or acceleration condition on a variation of other conditions.

It could be as simple as a resonance in the car from a part that is a touch loose. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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Thanks for all your comments, on another note dose anyone know if you can remove the propshaft on my freelander 2 like you can on a freelander 1 to convert to 2wd as I want to no is the vibration goes but as it has a heldex unit and a bundle of electronics in not sure you can.