So relieved to find my 2008 HST’s main vibration issue is shared by many others.

I think my transfer box has gone; the propshaft spins freely in the hand when all wheels are on ground and in gear; this sounds like stripped splines?

Anyway have mine booked in with Bell Engineering thanks to this forum’s recommendation, for the box to be replaced. I am really hoping that given that major expense, it will cure my vibration. They think it will as a spline might be catching somewhere and juddering the prop which is effectively sitting idle rest of the time.

Think I’ll ask Bell to replace ATF at the same time, and possibly the Haldex’s. No idea if they’ve ever been replaced.

My vibration is only under load, and up inclines, around 3000rpm.

When I bought the car in November I think 4WD was working back then as I felt the kick in from standing start, and don’t anymore. But the handbrake mechanism jammed with an almighty bang one day which I can only think tipped the worn 176k splines over the edge.

Is it also fair to conclude (having read every post on this thread) there isn’t a single cause of this vibration? Freelander 2 HST

That’s good to hear someone having a result on the vibes ..keep us informed when the work is done any advice on this issue is appreciated ....Wish I could find something that’s broke to reveal to cause of my bad vibration . Just fitted 4 new tyres and that made no difference so one more possible cause crossed off ....

I have had this problem for the last year. It started to appear at 1500 rpm, but then gradually developed to between 1500 and 2000 rpm. Above that it was fine. This was particularly noticeable on hills or when towing and got to the point you needed to keep at 2000rpm or above to get a vibration free drive

When I went to book it in for this years service and MOT at my local garage, not Hunters who I normally have been to, as I fell out with last year over their handling of a warranty claim and extras on top of a service plan for servicing items. I mentioned this when booking in and they thought it sounded like lack of torque before the turbo kicked in and suggested the car had a Terra Clean, as it seemed as if some of the sensors may have been carboned up. So Monday the car went in for a service MOT and Terra Clean. Yesterday I had a 60 mile run on mixed roads and it felt like a different car, vibration has disappeared and is generally a lot more lively at lower revs. So it appears problem solved. Remember there are never problems, just new challenges

Thanks for the input TonyJ... glad yours is sorted mate

**update** My vibration problem has really annoyed me for well over a year now and after checking everything I possibly could without removing gearbox and transfer box I had almost given up on the idea of actually finding the problem and was just willing to wait for a Big Bang to find the cause. Now although I recently had my mot and my tyres passed ok I have always been on the look out for a good set of matching tyres at a reasonable price as they were getting low and one tyre although same brand and size seemed to look smaller in diameter than the others . Recently dropped on a brand new set of Michelin’s and only just got round to getting them all fitted and I cannot believe the difference,it’s like driving someone else’s freelander so smooth it now seems to glide along and feels soft on bumps,quieter and less harsh and I can definitely say the vibration is almost gone. So is it possible the now equal tread on all four tyres and or the extra 6mm of rubber has sorted the problem .? Or maybe the larger circumference of the wheels has slightly altered road speed to engine speed resulting in the auto changing gear now at 2100 rpm and not 1950rpm just on the vibration zone .. or maybe the slightly smaller tyre was giving a different speed signal resulting in 4wd lock up unnessasrily ...whatever it is I’m well chuffed .

Just had the drivers side front wheel bearing replaced, mechanics used a stethoscope to confirm, drives like a new car.

No vibration at 1800rpm

How about greasing the prop shaft joints? somebody mentioned about the flexible vibration insulation discs, are we talking about below, can it be changed separately?

My 2009 HSE Auto had similar symptoms, it used to shake the car quite badly when accelerating. Had the PTU changed by Bell engineering on Monday and it has gone, different car.

steven211 wrote:

My 2009 HSE Auto had similar symptoms, it used to shake the car quite badly when accelerating. Had the PTU changed by Bell engineering on Monday and it has gone, different car.

I had a vibration in a Jag XJ6 a few years ago, after checking the usual stuff and crawling under the car and having a VERY close look around it turned out to be a prop shaft balance weight (small piece of metal welded to the shaft) had “thrown off” in service, could see where it has been because of the painted area so had a piecemeal cut and welded and all was well again. Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

After 400 miles of road testing I can say that my juddering/vibration under acceleration was caused by the front transfer box. I had this replaced by Austin at Bell Engineering for £846 inc. fitting with their refurbished units including brand new splines. I couldn’t be happier, it is actually like driving an entirely different car. Not a single vibration from standstill to 70mph.

That said, as part of the fitting we found one of my front CV joints had no grease in it at all, which can’t have been helpful, but the box remains more likely the cause.

The splines themselves had heavily worn, evenly, but with nowhere near enough tooth depth.

Austin was surprised that this would fix the vibration too, but has seen this a couple of times now (I think Steven211’s was the other one!) and is adding to his known symptoms list.

Not a cheap fix at all, but it’s effectively allowed me to keep the car. Freelander 2 HST

Just replaced the rear NS wheel bearing, 1800rpm vibration all gone  2007 hse auto

Hi Carlsson,

Can you pls explain the term "near side" for me, I am not a native...
What symptom did the the bearing have that made you to go for a change?

Thanks!

Pal

Nearside and offside refers to (in the UK) the left and right hand side of the car if you were sitting in the drivers seat. Nearside is the L/H side or the side nearest the kerb and Offside is the R/H side or the side furthest from the kerb or pavement. Hope this helps!

Clear now, thanks!