Just over the weekend at a plaza, I came back out to start my 08 LR2 and it wouldnt start. I put the keyfob in and tried starting it and only heard few clicks. The engine did not even crank. Everything else works such as radio fan windows except turning on the engine. The tow truck came and try boosting it but that didnt work either. Any suggestions

Hi there, It sounds like the starter has died. I presume you have a petrol model and there is a few threads regarding this on the forum including tips on how to test and repair the starter.

cool thanks

akmega,

I agree that the most likely cause is the starter motor.

Mine stopped working at 9 years and the symptoms were as you described


Here are a few good links with some information about the starter motor.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic30521.html

and another

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29593.html


There is more information on this site beyond just these two links.

Post here any question that you might have.


Note: changing the starter motor isn't very hard, I would say that its slightly more difficult than changing the oil.

Whatever you decide to do let us know (even if you have someone else do the work). It is always nice to know what the actual solution to the problem is.

Picture of the starter (ignore the dripping oil, that's for another day)





Good luck

Paul

Thanks Paul, really helpful

The click sound is coming from the drivers fuse box side, my pops tried giving a boost to the starter and still wouldnt start

Your Dad is on the right track

If you apply 12V+ to the exposed nut (in the picture above) the starter should crank. (I think your Dad did this and it did not crank the engine)

Note: All of this is assuming that the battery is charged.

If you have a volt meter do the following

1) measure the battery voltage, if it’s under 12.4 volts then charge it

2) verify the voltage to the exposed nut on the starter (red lead on the nut and black lead on ground) - should be zero volts

3) repeat the measurement but have a friend press the start button - voltage should be battery voltage

If you get 0 volts for step 2 and battery voltage for step 3 then it’s time for a new starter (this is exactly what mine did and a new starter fixed it)

Hopefully this makes sense

Paul

Engine earth cable? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Steve,

Based on the symptoms and the fact that it wouldn't start even with a boost from the tow truck I think that it's most likely the starter motor. (when my battery died my Land Rover started just fine with a boost)

Having said that the original poster does live in a cold climate and the extra earth lead is an upgrade that he should consider.

We should make that suggestion once he is back up and running.



Akmega,

For reference here is a link to the starter motor that I bought for my 2008 3.2

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/LR029180-MFG14.aspx



Good luck

Don't forget to update us on ultimate fix.


Thanks

Paul

Last edited by p_gill on 20th Feb 2018 9:04 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Check Steve Ds answer above.
If your earth return is corroded you will find most or all of your ancillaries will work but your starter won't.
An easy test is to use one jump lead with one end on a good engine earth and the other end clipped to the battery negative post.
Try starting the engine, if it turns over its your main earth at fault.
Easy enough to try before stripping out the starter motor.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Gasman,

That is a good trick.

Back in the day I used a set of jumper leads to warm my glow plugs on a VW Diesel that wouldn't start in sub freezing temperature. It was a manual and I pushed it to the edge of the hill, set it in motion, 3rd gear and engage the clutch, on a good day it started and on a bad day I parked it and walked.


Akmega,

There are other posibilities

-Negative return path to the battery is coroded/broken - (see gasman's work around, it is a good thing to check)
-Positive lead is fused between the battery and starter - pop the black cap in the picture that I posted and check for 12 Volts
-Relay in the fuse box that actuates the solenoid for the starter - verify Voltage at starter per above
-Fuse in fuse box that powers the starting relay - verify Voltage at starter per above
-Defective start/stop button- verify Voltage at starter per above
-Defective brake interlock switch - verify Voltage at starter per above
-Defective steering column lock - verify Voltage at starter per above

For me personally I would get a starter motor because they seem to last about 8 years.

How old is your LR2?

Good Luck

Paul

Last edited by p_gill on 21st Feb 2018 11:49 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks alot guys, I'll definitely keep you posted. I'm having it towed tmw afternoon to Westminster auto, living in Toronto Can. The year of my make is 2008 se

I did have a remote starter installed about two months ago, HC2 IDATALINK and it worked great. But I disconnected it for now.

We measured the battery voltage and it was 11.8

Akmega,

11.8 Volts is very low.

If it was me I would disconnect the battery leads and charge the battery to 12.4 volts or higher (if it can't get there then replace the battery) and then see if the engine starts. (install a jumper wire B- to the engine block as Gasman sugggested

If it does start then I would add the extra earth lead that Steve D and Gasman suggested and replace the old battery.

If it doesn't start verify the voltage at the starter solenoid and if its there when you press the start button then get a new starter.

For my LR2 batteries last for 4 years and starters last for 8.

Good Luck

Paul