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Kyytso

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Espoo
Posts: 4

2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Tonga Green

My freel2 just died - 2007, i6 HSE

Hey,

we have had the FL2 now for about one month and it has been great. Some issues and wear'n'tear you'd certainly expect from a 10 year old car, but nothing major. Now, yesterday I had it parked for a few minutes and when attempting to restart the engine won't even crank. First I though it is a flat battery as somehow I felt the car trying, but then giving up.

Charged the battery but still no cranking. Had to call a tow car to take it away. Now I read about "crash mode" so should have tried to reset the ecu maybe?

The other thin is, that I found a connector at the passanger side of the car, at the very front, that had a paperclip stuck in it. Maybe unrelated, but something has been short circuited here... any ideas where this connector should go to? I can't see any place that misses one.

Thanks,Ville

18th Nov 2017 1:06 pm

chicken george

Member Since: 06 Dec 2007
Location: N. Yorks
Posts: 13283

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Santorini Black

sorry most here are diesel owners, dont expect a lot of advise.

good luck At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

18th Nov 2017 1:53 pm

Greybeard

Member Since: 10 Aug 2010
Location: E Sussex
Posts: 157

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Zermatt Silver

Hello Ville,

You could try a "hard reset". Disconnect the battery terminals (-ve first) and hold together for a minute or so, then reconnect (-ve last). This does cure some ills but I am not too hopeful in your case. I too would be a little concerned about the plug with the paper clip. Is there a voltage on the paper clip? Could it have touched an earth and blown a fuse? If so, there wont be a voltage on it now! I don't seem to have a plug like that in that area on my diesel. Good luck.

18th Nov 2017 2:09 pm

Kyytso

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Espoo
Posts: 4

Many thanks gentlemen.

Yes, the i6 is very rare here as well, mostly you see that engine in XC90 rather than in FL2. I was thinking to take the clip out to see what that would do. One thing I was thinking is, that it could be something simple, like bonnet open/closed, but I could not track it from the wiring schematic.

Cheers,
Ville

18th Nov 2017 3:01 pm

Tigertim

Member Since: 23 May 2016
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 124

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

I would be quite confident in saying the paper clip in the connector is there to make up the circuit for the bonnet closed switch as I have done this on mine . The switch fails and so it thinks bonnet is open and so won’t let you lock the car and it’s a way of bypassing this . Be neater wrapped in insulation tape and clipped up to slam panel.

18th Nov 2017 6:46 pm

pfjths

Member Since: 21 Sep 2009
Location: BA12 7JG
Posts: 53

2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Stornoway Grey

Agreed. I too have used that trick until I could replace the switch. On a LHD drive car I assume this would be on the passenger side. Not sure if the connection if not made correctly could cause the immobiliser to kick in??

18th Nov 2017 7:48 pm

Dresdner

Member Since: 29 Feb 2016
Location: Dresden
Posts: 244

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

I too put a paper clip on bonnet connector and kept it like this as the design of the switch is very poor so why bother to replace it with the same.
In my case it was the cause for false alarms

18th Nov 2017 8:18 pm

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Kyytso

At 10 years a sudden no start is likely the starter motor

I would start there.

Mine failed at 9 years.

And I have the 3.2 just like you.

And I agree with the others about the paper clip. I haven’t had to do that but I will when the time comes.

Good luck

Paul

18th Nov 2017 9:00 pm

axle

Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: South Yorkshire.
Posts: 1042

2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Santorini Black

Think it maybe this one, to the right behind your hand in your picture, mines right hand drive if it makes a difference.

Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

19th Nov 2017 4:36 pm

Kyytso

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Espoo
Posts: 4

I think it's that one - looks simiar and location is spot on. Thanks!

19th Nov 2017 7:36 pm

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

Here is a picture of the starter motor for the 3.2.

The exposed connection (silver nut by the copper braid) should be 0 Volts until you press the starter button. (Measure between the silver nut and ground)

Have a friend push the start button and measure the voltage if it rises to the battery voltage and the starter doesn't engage then the starter motor isn't working.

If you don't get battery voltage at the starter then post here and we can troubleshoot further

Good luck

Paul

20th Nov 2017 7:16 pm

Kyytso

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Espoo
Posts: 4

Hello fellow inmates,

It seems that the starter is the culprit. Applying direct power to it doesn't make it budge, so it is either that or the engine has become a solid lump. Which I doubt..

Great advice, many thanks!

Ville

21st Nov 2017 2:30 pm

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

No problem

It's easy to change

Good luck

Paul

21st Nov 2017 4:13 pm

emetoolite

Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: Newbury
Posts: 20

2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand

Kyytso wrote:
Hello fellow inmates,

It seems that the starter is the culprit. Applying direct power to it doesn't make it budge, so it is either that or the engine has become a solid lump. Which I doubt..

Great advice, many thanks!

Ville

Hello Kyytso,

How did it go with you?
Were you able to get it started.
I do have a 2007 I6 HSE too, and twice something similar happened, the starter assembly was culprit.
Somehow i found water inside the solenoid, and starter motor. I guess it is a result of going for swimming (intentionally or not) with the vehicle.

I have also had an experience where the culprit was the Starter Relay in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box.

Lastly, i had another experience where the battery died out and vehicle would not start after replacing battery. Won't even crank. Battery seem to have lost its potency over time, and so when i left it connected and traveled for a few weeks, it eventually died out. Had to replace it.

None cranking turned out to be a case of vehicle thrown into Crash Mode.
Had to do the Crash Mode Reset using Launch X431 Diagun diagnostic tool.
Below link is an example of how to execute the crash mode reset.
https://www.launchtech.co.uk/common-proced...20mode.pdf

Yet after the reset, vehicle was cranking normally but would not start.
After several attempts, further troubleshooting was required. Found out that gasoline was not being supplied from fuel tank to engine. Decided to open the fuel tank as though i was going to buy gasoline at the gas station. The moment i slacked the fuel tank cover, there was a rush of air between tank and atmosphere. Did not take note whether it was air rushing out from tank or rushing in to tank. But i presume tank was Air-locked. After this, i started vehicle and it came online momentarily and stopped. Then i gave it another try and it came up and stayed online like the cute baby it is. Stopped and started vehicle several times thereafter, and it worked ok. Strange experience, but good enough i learnt a lot from it.

My theory will be that somehow the fuel line between the tank and engine got emptied as vehicle was parked for a few weeks. Perhaps there exist a "not-so-good" check valve in the fuel pump assembly allowing liquid flow back, thereby creating a vacuum in the normally fully flooded fuel circuit. Vacuum was broken when tank cover was opened. Not sure of the veracity of this theory, but for sure, the vehicle is doing its thing in style once again.

26th Jan 2018 9:47 am

RogB

Member Since: 16 Dec 2014
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 3869

2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Santorini Black

p_gill wrote:
Here is a picture of the starter motor for the 3.2.

The exposed connection (silver nut by the copper braid) should be 0 Volts until you press the starter button. (Measure between the silver nut and ground)

Have a friend push the start button and measure the voltage if it rises to the battery voltage and the starter doesn't engage then the starter motor isn't working.

If you don't get battery voltage at the starter then post here and we can troubleshoot further

Good luck

Paul

never mind the starter motor... you've got a major oil leak !!!

26th Jan 2018 10:29 am

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