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•Al2

Member Since: 24 May 2019
Location: South East
Posts: 29

2009 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Santorini Black

I’ve loved reading through this post, thank you! I have no intention of fitting anything like this, it’s like you guys just need regular sized steel rims / plentiful tires or some of these;

1st Jul 2019 2:17 pm

Lightwater

Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 4062

2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

The problem in the Australian outback is 2/3 of our roads are unsealed & when it rains they turn to this sticky gunk. If you don't get it off it sets like concrete.

This took me half an hour a corner to remove & I was lucky to have access to water & had my own piece of hose & had a hand gardening spade to massage the stuff off the car. I had missed removing some of the "concrete" on the inside circumference of the rims & the next day the car felt like it had triangular wheels! So another half an hour chiseling away at it.

So probably would have to replace the air with high pressure water!

Click image to enlarge

The other issue is you want firm tyres for sealed roads & be able to soften the tyres for corrugated stony roads & let the tyres down to 20 or even 15 psi for sand so the car floats on the sand. It is a lost cause on soft sand with a firm tyre.

I let the tyres down once we were on these roads.

Click image to enlarge

After cooler (2 small oil coolers), should be before air tank but I haven't got the room. But it is before the moisture trap which is important.

I covered the outside as the fins are a bit sharp & can be damaged easily. It blocks the air a bit but the compressors are only being used for a short time. It's to condense water in the air, can also put the after cooler in a bucket of water for more efficient cooling.

Inside the pipe there is an aluminium twisted strip to create turbulence so the air will have the best possible contact with the pipe. Just not flowing straight through.

In situ with some Velcro when needed on a regular basis. The boot cover is not used when we are in the outback.

Refrigerated condenser dryer!

Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

1st Jul 2019 3:08 pm

Lightwater

Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 4062

I have replaced the 70 - 100psi pressure switch with a 110 - 135psi switch. The dual compressor model has a 135 - 150psi switch.

Before, the 3 compressors were a bit ahead of what could be pushed into the tyre. Now they run for the time it takes to fill a tyre.

20psi to 35psi 28 seconds off the four 26Ah auxiliary batteries. Normally I use the starter battery with the engine running to keep voltage up as the current is 90amps. It will probably knock a second off the time. Ironically it takes about a minute to deflate a tyre to 20psi.

According to my regulator the cut-off psi is 130psi with the 110 - 135psi switch.

Three ARB compressors inflating while engine is running 255/60R18, about 60 litres volume. 20 - 35psi 27 seconds (28 seconds off 4 x 26AH auxiliary batteries) or 15 - 40psi 47 seconds per tyre.

The pressure sits around 112psi according to the pressure regulator. So if I want to speed this up I will need to add a fourth compressor. If this higher pressure gets close to the my current cut off of 135psi then a 150psi switch will be required.

Ironically about 60 seconds to deflate from 35 - 20psi. I need a vacuum setup!

Air or air/water cleaning is better now

Click image to enlarge

13th May 2021 8:50 am

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