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Trav Member Since: 27 Aug 2016 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 167 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The sensor is the cheaper of the two so it would be a good place to start. However where is start is with a scope reading on the sensors and if all good physically checking the timing. It can be done without removing the top timing cover through a grommet. The rev counter will not work if the sensor is open/ short circuit but will count revs if the signal is scrambled due to sensor not reading correctly or target ring damaged.
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Trav Member Since: 27 Aug 2016 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 167 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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The dog Member Since: 03 Oct 2016 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 62 ![]() ![]() |
Yes Trev that would be it right enough. I guess the sensor must be good though due the rev counter giving a good steady reading during cranking from memory around 200rpm when cranking. And due to the fact that it's keyed to the crankshaft I guess the timing can't be out. The locking pins were in place when the timing belt was renewed.
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Trav Member Since: 27 Aug 2016 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 167 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A Noid test light is for testing power to injectors but Weakon injector quick probe is also a very good tool for checking them.
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The dog Member Since: 03 Oct 2016 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 62 ![]() ![]() |
Hi Trev, Yes I'll definitely now take a look at the target ring and sensor again. I'm pretty sure I didn't damage the ring but will check the ring and sensor and wiring again.
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