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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear shock absorbers - cost to replace
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Gapster



Member Since: 30 Aug 2016
Location: Auvergne
Posts: 148

France 

Whilst I wait for my workshop manual to arrive.....

Can anyone post a pdf of the 'replacing/maintenance' pages for the rear shocks? If not I'm looking for tips on where to disconnect the trim so I don't damage anything, and I want to buy some replacement clips should any break.

I have a comprehensive tool kit including a trim removal set, but I have yet to remove anything on a Land Rover where something hasn't snapped or broken Very Happy

Post #305948 4th Sep 2016 6:09 am
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Weyboat



Member Since: 26 Jul 2016
Location: Weymouth
Posts: 61

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Bali Blue

Try these PDF files

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...sorber.pdf

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21475/Trim.pdf

Post #305950 4th Sep 2016 7:32 am
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Gapster



Member Since: 30 Aug 2016
Location: Auvergne
Posts: 148

France 

Brilliant! Just what I was looking for! Many thanks!

A few glasses of red should you pass by Very Happy

I guess the shock mounting is just a couple of nuts when you get access?

Post #305952 4th Sep 2016 7:52 am
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Weyboat



Member Since: 26 Jul 2016
Location: Weymouth
Posts: 61

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Bali Blue

I have no idea about the nuts, I have not had to do this repair myself..
Good Luck

Post #305954 4th Sep 2016 8:01 am
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Stubbenoldgit



Member Since: 15 Nov 2012
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 145

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Lux Auto Zermatt Silver

Other one was done under warranty, it doesn't seem to make much difference.

Post #306084 5th Sep 2016 6:24 pm
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Weyboat



Member Since: 26 Jul 2016
Location: Weymouth
Posts: 61

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Bali Blue

Edited, as not appropriate..

Post #306130 6th Sep 2016 7:00 am
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Gapster



Member Since: 30 Aug 2016
Location: Auvergne
Posts: 148

France 

Right in the middle of removing the first one. All went swimmingly well until it came to removing the damn thing from the car - strut is refusing to come out at the bottom. Not surprising as its been there nearly 10 yrs. Managed to get it to move one cm by cursing and swearing very loudly, but even bashing with a mallet has it's limitations....

Now bathed it in wd40 and having a cuppa. Only dead fish go with the flow

Post #307062 18th Sep 2016 2:13 pm
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carlsson



Member Since: 15 Dec 2015
Location: Fife
Posts: 88

Scotland 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Aye it can be tight
I left a couple of the top nuts hand tight then pushed the suspension down with a big lever whilst hitting the strut up once it popped out enough I think i also removed the ant roll bat link,,,,,,then released the top nuts and wiggled it out....hope that make sense and you get it out...
Refitting is just the opposite two nuts I the top and push down the suspension and wiggle it back in, I also cleaned up the bracket it sits in to help. 2007 hse auto

Post #307067 18th Sep 2016 4:11 pm
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Gapster



Member Since: 30 Aug 2016
Location: Auvergne
Posts: 148

France 

Yes, I know what you mean. However, it appears to be the bottom clamp is 'pinching' on the strut - I need another pair of hands to prise open the gap a bit whilst I pull the damn thing out. Managed to get it out so far, prised the thing open, then it all slipped back to it's original position again.

Bloody thing - more patience needed.... Only dead fish go with the flow

Post #307073 18th Sep 2016 4:36 pm
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Gapster



Member Since: 30 Aug 2016
Location: Auvergne
Posts: 148

France 

What a plonker I am! Just wasn't thinking...

Simple solution, even though it took me a couple of hours to work it out Shocked

Wedge a chisel in the gap.


 Only dead fish go with the flow

Post #307096 18th Sep 2016 5:44 pm
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carlsson



Member Since: 15 Dec 2015
Location: Fife
Posts: 88

Scotland 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Thumbs Up next one you do will be so much easier Wink 2007 hse auto

Post #307104 18th Sep 2016 6:14 pm
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Gapster



Member Since: 30 Aug 2016
Location: Auvergne
Posts: 148

France 

So.....I can confirm it is a simple job, as long as you don't grow Donkey ears when looking for a simple solution - can't beleive I was so slow..

Only tip I have is to use something to wedge the knuckle joint open to make it easier to remove from the knuckle/clamp end. Otherwise all very straight forward, but you must have spring compressors and a good socket extention bar. Only dead fish go with the flow

Post #307269 20th Sep 2016 5:10 pm
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red
Disaster

Time to add to this topic and its mixed blessings.

I have a suspension type shimmy and it could be more than one problem of course and its not obvious what is causing it. I have decided to start on the the rear end ( Razz ) and then found MY13 struts onwards are much more money. Confused Bit the bullet and got them as cheap as I could from site sponsors Matford and today decided to have a go fitting them.

Disaster - Why ? You have a comprehensive toolkit and go out and buy some spring compressors then get part way through stripping to find the trolley jack blows a seal followed by splitting a socket and the disaster goes on and on.

Had to wait for Mrs Yorky to come home from work so I could go off in her car and get new jack(s) and sockets and I hope tomorrow fairs much better. Shocked

So the moral of the story so far is two fold. 1) just pay someone else to the job. 2) I now know the jack could have killed me doing a lesser job while not taking a lot of interest.

Tomorrow the fight starts again. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #354940 13th Aug 2018 8:39 pm
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BossBob



Member Since: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Bristol
Posts: 1254

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Baltic Blue

Glad to hear that the jack didn’t kill you. So on to the usual questions. Old jack, new jack, should it have coped with the job you were trying to do? If newish, make model etc?

Post #354962 14th Aug 2018 10:12 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4570

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Gapster wrote:
What a plonker I am! Just wasn't thinking...

Simple solution, even though it took me a couple of hours to work it out Shocked

Wedge a chisel in the gap.




What you need is a strut spreader tool. Like this...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302760220430?chn=ps
There is often a pin on the shock body (dont know if Freelander has one though) which locates into the gap in the hub. You can sometimes knacker or jam this pin with a cold chisel.
See the pin below.
 Jules


Last edited by jules on 14th Aug 2018 11:23 am. Edited 2 times in total

Post #354964 14th Aug 2018 11:18 am
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