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msfergus



Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: West Yorkhshire
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 

I've just done mine, bit the bullet after over a year of no stop/start and then cross-fingered starting in cold weather. I'd sweated a bit about doing it myself as I'd read all the recalibration stuff etc and thought purchasing a cheaper than dealer battery would leave me no better off if I've then got to go to a dealer for calibration. Also, I'm not a skilled mechanic or electrical engineer.

The job took me 15 mins, it's an utter doddle. Took the car for a four mile spin (having noticed the much faster cold cranking) and although it's only 5º C outside, the stop/start system started working perfectly. I won't be going near any dealer therefore for any calibration etc. In addition, although the clock needed resetting, the radio presets were all retained (no power during battery changeover) and resetting the electric windows quick and simple.

Post #247312 2nd Jan 2015 2:47 pm
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wjohnm



Member Since: 10 May 2014
Location: Glos
Posts: 84

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Sumatra Black

ad210358 wrote:
This one will do an AGM battery, but shop around, prices vary from £59 to £99.
Also if you have a 13 Pin connector for use when towing you can buy the adapter from Martin on Disco3.com and charge it without lifting the bonnet.

http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/MXS%205.0

When I had a flat battery I was going to trickle charge until I checked the handbook which said battery needed to be disconnected.
Would using the connector get round that and is it just for ctek? FL2 11 S Black 😂
Gone Disco2 TD5 GS

Post #247315 2nd Jan 2015 3:09 pm
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EYorkshire



Member Since: 18 Nov 2010
Location: (!)
Posts: 4392

I use the 13 pin at the back to plug my CTEK charger in and no, nothing is disconnected and it charges with the battery still connected to all associated wiring.

A CTEK is good but there are also others that will do the job, just don't buy cheap and nasty as any surging or AC ripple will/could damage the electronics. I have topped mine up for a couple of years now without disconnecting the battery.

Post #247321 2nd Jan 2015 3:52 pm
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ad210358



Member Since: 12 Oct 2008
Location: Here and There
Posts: 7464

England 

As above, you will be fine using a CTEK with the battery all connected, you can also get the "Comfort Connector" which connects direct to the poles of the battery and charge it that way, but the 13 Pin is easier for me. Thumbs Up

Post #247346 2nd Jan 2015 6:11 pm
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tim4848



Member Since: 11 Apr 2010
Location: Baildon
Posts: 47

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Santorini Black

msfergus wrote:
I've just done mine, bit the bullet after over a year of no stop/start and then cross-fingered starting in cold weather. I'd sweated a bit about doing it myself as I'd read all the recalibration stuff etc and thought purchasing a cheaper than dealer battery would leave me no better off if I've then got to go to a dealer for calibration. Also, I'm not a skilled mechanic or electrical engineer.

The job took me 15 mins, it's an utter doddle. Took the car for a four mile spin (having noticed the much faster cold cranking) and although it's only 5º C outside, the stop/start system started working perfectly. I won't be going near any dealer therefore for any calibration etc. In addition, although the clock needed resetting, the radio presets were all retained (no power during battery changeover) and resetting the electric windows quick and simple.


am in exactly the same position.... no stop/starting for the last year.... coming up to 5 years old.... the LR battery in the car is a Varta AGM 80AH 800 Cold Cranking.... am I correct in assuming this would be the exact same battery (Varta Part Code F21 / 580 901 080) .... http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/...tAodHlAAwA .... if so, am I also correct to assume that to replace it, just involves disconnecting cables connected to negative, then disconnect cables connected to positive, old battery out, new battery in, connect cables to positive, connect cables to negative, start car, reset windows, reset sunroof, allow 48 hours for autocalibration of battery (no LR dealer diagnostics/reprogramming involved)?

Post #250861 28th Jan 2015 10:54 pm
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tim_roberts



Member Since: 10 Aug 2013
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 215

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e S Manual Santorini Black

Yes, that's the one I fitted to my MY2010 last June. No issues disconnecting old one and connecting new one, and I didn't have to reset anything.

Post #250884 29th Jan 2015 9:07 am
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Stevie5tapes



Member Since: 10 Jun 2012
Location: Brighouse, YORKSHIRE
Posts: 1370

England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Auto Sumatra Black

I put in a Varta F21 just before Christmas. Printed out a price from the internet and got a local battery place to price match. Swapped the battery over myself and stop/start sorted it self out after about half an hour. I paid 135 quid. Car starts fine and in cold weather haven't had a haldex fault come up on the dash. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Post #250895 29th Jan 2015 10:32 am
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tim4848



Member Since: 11 Apr 2010
Location: Baildon
Posts: 47

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Santorini Black

Thanks for the replies. Will get one ordered

Post #250958 29th Jan 2015 6:09 pm
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stevep999



Member Since: 07 Sep 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 198

United Kingdom 
ctek's AGM reply

Hi

Recond is just for WET and MF batteries. Recond makes no use on an AGM battery.

Best regards
Pierre

 

PIERRE LÖFGREN │ W W Sale Support
CTEK SWEDEN AB │ 

Post #251064 30th Jan 2015 4:34 pm
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tim4848



Member Since: 11 Apr 2010
Location: Baildon
Posts: 47

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Santorini Black

Finally got round to doing this battery swap. Was relatively straight forward although I did need a second person to keep the cables out of the way as I removed and replaced the battery which was heavy (as expected). Had to undo one extra cable from the negative otherwise I would not have been able to pull the cables to one side and get the battery out/in. Only casualty was a tiny black metal clasp that held the plastic connecter to the metal plate attached to the positive terminal. it's now somewhere in the engine compartment or on the road somewhere on the way to Ilkley. Have used a cable tie to keep it attached as I think that's all the clasp was for. Put gas tube back in and put a bung in the other end as there was one there on the one I took out. Had to set clock, reset windows and sun roof and it did a couple of STOP/STARTS on the first trip out. I will get a new tiny metal clasp as it will annoy me knowing it's missing, unless, of course, it's £50 from LR Smile

Post #253122 14th Feb 2015 2:47 pm
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tim4848



Member Since: 11 Apr 2010
Location: Baildon
Posts: 47

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Santorini Black

don't, whatever you do, lose the black metal clasp from the underside of the electrical connecter. it isn't available as a separate part (which I suspected) and the whole connecter is £83 ! needless to say, the cable tie is staying where it is

Post #253372 16th Feb 2015 9:35 am
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submarine



Member Since: 27 Jul 2014
Location: over by Cardiff
Posts: 294

Wales 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Santorini Black

You could get a LOT of cable ties for 83 quid lol

Post #253373 16th Feb 2015 9:52 am
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LR NUT



Member Since: 12 May 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 4350

Scotland 2014 Freelander 2 TD4_e Dynamic Manual Fuji White

EYorkshire wrote:
Quote:
If a new battery is fitted to the vehicle, the BMS (battery monitoring system) module will require recalibrating to register the greater charge holding capacity of the battery, this is performed using Land Rover approved diagnostic equipment.

If diagnostic equipment is not available the BMS module will recalibrate automatically however, this could take 48 hours to
complete depending on vehicle usage. The Stop/Start system will not function correctly until the BMS module is
recalibrated.


A cut and paste from Landrovers manual, its a case of swapping yourself and letting the 'BMS' calibrate itself. You may have to reset your windows afterwards and that's all.


Interesting as the MY14 brochure does not mention this at all.

Click image to enlarge
 MY14 Kahn Converted Dynamic - Fuji White Ebony/Pimento Interior
MY15 Xenon Headlight Conversion

MY17 RRS SVR - Estoril Blue Cirrus/Ebony 🪣💺’s

Post #380037 20th Oct 2019 9:37 am
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