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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4341

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

One thing I can add to this might be something to do with driving style. You will see from my list of FL2s below that we had a 2011 TD4 manual which was owned by my son and exhibited this problem and it really annoyed him. We had it back in the dealers a couple of times and they never sorted it despite getting LR involved. When he left the country to work in Africa I took over the car for several months until I traded it in and replaced it with my current 2014 SD4 auto. During the time that I had the 2011 model my wife and I never experienced the problem so what does that imply? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #394711 26th Jul 2020 6:23 pm
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CED



Member Since: 05 Apr 2014
Location: leverington
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Bali Blue

Hello Dorset, did you run that car in the winter months as a matter of interest, the fault only manifests its ugly head when the temp rises above 15c.

Post #394714 26th Jul 2020 8:33 pm
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4341

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

Yes i thought about the temperature issue but I drove it regularly during warmer weather and took it for a ride a few times when my son was complaining about it but it just didn't happen for me. Incidentally, my LR dealer said that they had three other customers with the same issue but that sometimes people drive cars differently and that very often when they took them out for a test drive they didn't experience it either (or so they said). 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #394718 26th Jul 2020 8:56 pm
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bin



Member Since: 26 Jul 2019
Location: Wilts
Posts: 36

United Kingdom 2012 Freelander 2 TD4 S Auto Orkney Grey

DGL wrote:
bin wrote:
I have this issue - as in the video above - at low speed/pulling away after a few seconds halted e.g. junction, roundabout etc.

....and of course it only occurs when the ambient temp gets above 15C...which is insane.

Local-ish LR specialists tracked it as far as identifying what is happening when that noise is made. They put a pressure sensor in the air intake on the join between the airbox and the duct to the turbo. Whenever that noise appears they found a back pressure spike in the duct from the turbo out through the air filter and into the outside world.

My guess is that you are hearing that noise from the left hand side footwell area when driving?

What they then did was to disconnect the MAP sensor on top of the throttle body and it stopped happening.

Since the sensor was not reporting errors they decided the throttle body was at fault and replaced it. This was a hot sunny afternoon in September and I then drove home in stop start traffic - normally a nightmare - and all good. Next day it was back!


Currently temp is of course a bit lower and it's like a different car, smooth, responsive, no "pcha pcha" noise - all good.

So, to my simple mind this has got to be related to something that is aware of the outside temperature - and pretty accurately too.

It reminds me of an issue with my KIA Sportage where they fitted rear roll bar bushes for hot climate to a number of cars. In cold weather they groaned over bumps - in hot they were fine - changeover around 15C........weird! However, not relevant to this problem.

So far as I can find out there are 3 things that could be easily relevant - MAP, MAF and ITA Temp sensors. All are easy to swap. Back in the good old days you use to have a moveable duct on air filter pipes that you used to swivel over to the exhaust manifold area to ensure you got warm air through the carburettor - used to play merry hell in the summer if you forgot to move it back.

I don't know if mass swapping of those bits will make any difference - but I'm going to give it a whirl because there doesn't seem to be any other solution anywhere. Probably won't know the result till next year!

If it's any help - this is my throttle pedal so idon't think it is involved?



Hi Bin, sorry to raise an old thread but did you have any success with your investigations with this fault?


Well now - there's a bit of a surprise! I had the car serviced a few weeks ago - local general repairs and service guys - but we do have a lot of landrovers in Wiltshire. This was a simple, minimal service as it had the waterpump yadayadayada job last year. Now, what with covid impact on life I've not been out much. Even had to resort to the battery charger. But.... today - it's 25C hot sunny dry - perfect weather for a cha cha. No cha cha! It drives like a normal car!!!!
The service was just oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, pollen filter, jet cleaner, screenwash and service interval reset. Nothing complicated....
Oil and pollen filter, screenwash seem unlikely candidates.
Service reset - well unless their reset tool did other stuff I don't see that could be it...but???
Fuel filter, air filter and Jet cleaner seem most hopeful.

Don't know if this helps anyone.

Post #394837 30th Jul 2020 3:43 pm
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CED



Member Since: 05 Apr 2014
Location: leverington
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Bali Blue

Hi , don’t want to be a party pooper, but it will be back, been there , got the tee shirt. I was convinced it was fuel filter related as I didn’t have the problem until the minute the first new fuel filter was fitted. Today with 28 deg it is terrible. I’ve done all the usual so called cures without any progress. Good luck , and don’t try selling these annoying cars until mid winter.

Post #394845 30th Jul 2020 6:46 pm
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FreelSol1



Member Since: 13 Apr 2020
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 27

England 

[quote="bin"][quote="DGL"]

bin wrote:
I have this issue - as in the video above - at low speed/pulling away after a few seconds halted e.g. junction, roundabout etc.

....and of course it only occurs when the ambient temp gets above 15C...which is insane.
.
.
Well now - there's a bit of a surprise! I had the car serviced a few weeks ago - local general repairs and service guys - but we do have a lot of landrovers in Wiltshire. This was a simple, minimal service as it had the waterpump yadayadayada job last year. Now, what with covid impact on life I've not been out much. Even had to resort to the battery charger. But.... today - it's 25C hot sunny dry - perfect weather for a cha cha. No cha cha! It drives like a normal car!!!!
The service was just oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, pollen filter, jet cleaner, screenwash and service interval reset. Nothing complicated....
Oil and pollen filter, screenwash seem unlikely candidates.
Service reset - well unless their reset tool did other stuff I don't see that could be it...but???
Fuel filter, air filter and Jet cleaner seem most hopeful.

Don't know if this helps anyone.



I've had this issue for several months. I got the turbo replaced (a 2nd hand one from breakers). It worked fine for a few hundred miles, but the problem came back gradually, then got progressively worse.

The oil I used was from a distributor in the Midlands - the correct C1 classification, but the quality and compatibility with the 2.2 engine is unknown.

The point is: I'm going to change the oil for Shell Helix Ultra...AF-L - the oil that is recommended for this engine (2.2 diesel with DPF).

I will let you know if changing the oil for the expensive stuff (who knows what your local service centre uses?) improves it in any way. My local specialist who changed the turbo for me, said it is the gearbox, and didn't bother to change the oil to Shell Helix!

I've bought the oil and will do it myself. In the long run, I think this is a relatively cheap way of eliminating a possible cause.
I will also run the expensive diesel for a few tanks in case there has been any unwelcome buildups/blockages in the air path.
Thanks.

Post #394860 31st Jul 2020 8:58 am
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FreelSol1



Member Since: 13 Apr 2020
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 27

England 

Note: I disconnected the MAF sensor connector which puts it in Reduced Performance mode and the problem disappears. However, this isn't a permanent solution.


I've changed the oil to Shell Helix...AF-L and no difference.

I've been using V-power diesel for a few hundred miles - it runs a bit better, but problem still exists.

Tried Wynn fuel additive - no difference.

Currently trying Wynn turbo cleaner fuel additive to see if the product does actually clean the turbo vanes and if it makes a difference. Need to put some miles on it...

Will persist with fuel additives for a while, but I don't hold out much hope.

Also, I'm checking other forums for the extent of this problem (Evoque, Ford, Peugeot etc) and to see whether anyone in the world has got a fix for this problem.

Post #395665 17th Aug 2020 9:21 am
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

Quote:
I disconnected the MAF sensor connector which puts it in Reduced Performance mode and the problem disappears. However, this isn't a permanent solution.


MAF is reading the air introduced into the system. When disconnected, the system substitutes with a default value, based on RPM.
You should ask yourself who is responsible for the quantity of air metered by the MAF...
1. Turbo
2. EGR

You said the turbo has been changed.
My money is on EGR.

Post #395679 17th Aug 2020 12:54 pm
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FreelSol1



Member Since: 13 Apr 2020
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 27

England 

I tend to agree with you.

But, after the turbo (used condition, from a breaker) was fitted, everything was working fine for a few hundred miles, but the problem gradually re-introduced itself - it started hesitating after about 100 mile journey, then gradually more often over 3-4 weeks, when in the end, it was happening straight from startup.

So, would the fitting of the turbo somehow clear the EGR for it to work perfectly, then make it gradually worse over a few weeks?

My money is on something getting stuck (anything that opens and closes) as it is an intermittent problem.

I'm going to re-read a previous post (the one with a youtube video of it happening) because it contained an explanation that I didn't understand. Hopefully, it will make more sense to me if I read it a few more times.

The air-sound that it makes apparently is the EGR pressure release valve LR017782 - someone replaced it and it didn't make a difference. Are we sure that this is definitely the part that makes the air-sound (or is there another pressure-release valve somewhere else)?


Last edited by FreelSol1 on 17th Aug 2020 2:08 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #395686 17th Aug 2020 1:30 pm
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Chuckalicious



Member Since: 23 May 2014
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 1701

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Santorini Black

This is a brutal problem that seems to affect so many of us in the same way, with no fix, even after all the tests and replaced parts. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Post #395687 17th Aug 2020 1:35 pm
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FreelSol1



Member Since: 13 Apr 2020
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 27

England 

Yes, I'm really p!ssed off because this is the first diesel car I've had in nearly 20 years, and I expected them to be reliable and plod on forever, but it turns out these engines are very temperamental.

It's not only Freelander 2s that have this problem - had a quick look on other forums and it also happens to Mondeo, S-max, and focus as well as Peugeot 208.

Not impressed. I can't give up though, mainly because it has worked in the past, so there must be a fix somewhere.

I was told that a software update will give it a 50-50 chance of working, but that will overwrite my JC Tuning remap (I had the problem before and after the remap, so the remap isn't the problem). I might do it as a last resort.

Post #395690 17th Aug 2020 1:58 pm
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4341

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

As someone who spent his working life in the IT industry I would say that this is a pretty bold statement. The code in the ECU will no doubt be reading values from the map but what else is the ECU doing? and who created the new map ? etc

I was told that a software update will give it a 50-50 chance of working, but that will overwrite my JC Tuning remap (I had the problem before and after the remap, so the remap isn't the problem).

The hesitation problem has been an ongoing saga since 2011 and just about everything has been tried by now and LR gave up on it years ago. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #395691 17th Aug 2020 2:09 pm
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FreelSol1



Member Since: 13 Apr 2020
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 27

England 

I will look on as many Ford and Peugeot forums as I can to see how they describe the problem and see if they suggest anything different to us LR owners...

Post #395692 17th Aug 2020 2:21 pm
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CED



Member Since: 05 Apr 2014
Location: leverington
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Bali Blue

Hi everyone ,
As I have stated in my previous posts , my problem didn’t start until the first service that included replacing the fuel filter, and it was doing it the moment I left Marshalls Peterborough . They washed their hands of the problem, absolutely useless .
Have done everything , the annoying thing is it can be cured for a while by replacing items, then it’s back . I replaced the maf , cured for a day, even new battery cured it for a week . Runs perfectly in the winter, but the higher the outside temperature , the worse it gets.This problem really Censored me off.

Post #395704 17th Aug 2020 6:41 pm
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Baby Prince



Member Since: 15 Aug 2020
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 
Throttle Pedal Sensor

Hi

Could I just ask please ; anyone who fitted a new Throttle Pedal Sensor, did you find this a permanent fix to the dreaded Low Rev Stutter and lag in the accelerator ? Just purchased a 2013 Auto which has this problem. Dealers it would seam remain confused .....

Post #395833 19th Aug 2020 11:52 pm
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