I am considering using one of these vacuum pumps for oil changes:

http://www.amazon.com/Itt-Jabsco-Bucket-Ch...mp;sr=8-34

or

[url][/url]
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-F...amp;sr=8-3


- easy access to the oil filter on 3.2L gas engine should make change not too difficult.

Anyone can comment?

Thanks

Used one to get the oil out my yacht's engine. Seemed to work OK but is it worth it for the FL as it should be easy to drain unlike a boat...?

pfjths wrote:

Used one to get the oil out my yacht's engine. Seemed to work OK but is it worth it for the FL as it should be easy to drain unlike a boat...?

Interesting. I've always been wary of using vaccum pumps when draining oil in case i can't get all the black stuff out. I once saw a car straight from a dealer (not L/R) after oil change using a pump and the dipstick was covered in black streaks. I assume the worst of the oil is at the bottom of the sump.
Anyone know if these pumps are any good?

Pegleg wrote:

Interesting. I've always been wary of using vaccum pumps when draining oil in case i can't get all the black stuff out. I once saw a car straight from a dealer (not L/R) after oil change using a pump and the dipstick was covered in black streaks. I assume the worst of the oil is at the bottom of the sump.
Anyone know if these pumps are any good?

My comments on vacum pumps for what its worth.
Many garages use them and some main dealers that i know. Usualy you will warm the engine up which in turn picks up most of the sludge suspended in the oil. It also makes it a little thinner as the oil warms up. This will make it more easy to extract.
The pump up vacum cylinder unit is the best option for price and comes with several ribes each indicating one litre of oil so you know how much you have extracted.
I have a six litre pump up vacum unit with six ribs indicating six litres of oil when full. It has a auto cut off when full so oil does not spill out all over the place.
There are three diferent size tubes for most dipsticks. I have vacumed out oil from many tyes of cars over the years and found them to be a very good tool.
NOW FOR THE BAD NEWS. Ive just serviced my FL2 and was only able to extract almost five litres of oil as i could not get the tube to the bottom of the sump no matter what i tried. I still had to take off the sump guard and undo the drain plug on my diesel freelander, but apart from that its a first class tool which i still use many times on other makes of cars. hope this helps

superspark wrote:

...
NOW FOR THE BAD NEWS. Ive just serviced my FL2 and was only able to extract almost five litres of oil as i could not get the tube to the bottom of the sump no matter what i tried. I still had to take off the sump guard and undo the drain plug on my diesel freelander, but apart from that its a first class tool which i still use many times on other makes of cars. hope this helps

Hi m1964, I had sucked out five litres or there about and after removing the sump plug got out about another litre, the book if i remember states 6.5 uk litres but that would be a dry engine. Fuel here is very expensive, where i buy it it is £1.16.9 per litre.

My Derek sometimes uses a vacuum pump

superspark wrote:

Hi m1964, I had sucked out five litres or there about and after removing the sump plug got out about another litre, the book if i remember states 6.5 uk litres but that would be a dry engine. Fuel here is very expensive, where i buy it it is £1.16.9 per litre.

This type of oil change is only effective if the dip stick hole is over the lowest part of the sump. Older in line engines almost always had this configuration but there is no guarantee and this is why you cannot get all the oil out of the FL2. If you can argue the cost vs convenience do the oil change warm as has already been said but do it more often than required by the service intervals. Prog rock is cool!
2012 XS SD4 Indus Silver