Hi all,

My Freelander 2 Diesel 2.2 td4 s, 135,000 km won’t start:

- Today when I tried to start the car, I only got a click (no cranking).
- The message “Engine fault / Special programs off / HDC disabled” appeared once, then disappeared while I kept trying.
- An hour later, after 2–3 attempts, it started instantly and smoothly with no hesitation.
- Battery terminals look clean and undamaged and the charger reads 12.6V.

Video of the problem: https://streamable.com/7mhrbb

Extra info:

- The day before the issue, the car ran fine and was used for the whole afternoon.
- Battery was replaced (along with oil and filters) in late August, as the car had been standing unused for a while.
- Since then, I’ve filled it up and driven it regularly without a single starting (or any) problem until now.

I tried locating the starter/solenoid to tap it with a wrench or hammer, but I’m not sure it’s accessible from the top. I’ll also check the ground cable.

I’ve also read it could be a relay issue.

Has anyone experienced this? I’ve never had a car not crank at all before.

Thanks in advance for your inputs

As there are faults shown on dash its possible voltage is low due to poor earths,ie engine earth,battery earth.also the main feed to starter may have high resistance.

Carnoob,

Common problem…..I had the same fault…well documented on this forum….almost certainly it’s the starter motor solenoid contacts…..you can buy a kit to replace the contacts….I replaced with brand new unit ….
Nippon Denso starter. I had same fault with starter on Disco 2 TD5…..same make….
Annoying that the fault was intermittent……….but been ok since….
Bonne chance…..Pete FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Thanks both for your inputs 👍 really appreciate it.

Quick update:

- I recharged the battery fully overnight but sadly it didn’t help at all.

- Swapped the A/C relay with the starter relay just in case, no change.

- I’ve ordered a starter solenoid repair kit (found one on AliExpress for less than 10€, looks like the same type) – I’ll probably just replace the copper contacts, since I read the aftermarket plunger doesn’t have the same little black sealing ring.

- Will also pick up a cheap voltmeter, so I’ll be able to test the grounds and the starter voltages.

What I find odd is that it never gave me any warning signs, didn’t happen once or twice the days before failing completely, just suddenly decided not to crank.

Do you know if it’s easier to get at the starter from underneath with the engine undertray off?

Merci

Carnoob,

I found it fairly easy to take the starter off from above……it looks buried but came off ok….
You may want to drop the under-tray anyway…..because it’s likely you’ll drop a spanner or something !
I did….!

Bonne chance..Pete FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Hello, and thanks Sid and Pete sorry I didn’t post earlier, the job’s been done for a while.

In the end it was fairly easy. I first tried from underneath but it’s definitely a from-the-top job. On the petrol version the starter seems to sit right above the front undertray shield, but not on the diesel.

Removing the starter took a bit of time because I wasn’t sure at first. I held it with a rope since it’s a bit heavy, around 5 kg. The lower bolt (marked “HT1” the parts diagram) made me hesitate because it looks like a nut sitting flush rather than a bolt. It does come out — used a 19 mm on that one, the other two are 14 mm. Not much space but nothing was torqued too hard.

My starter: Land Rover 6G9N-11000-MB / Denso 428000-4851 seems to be DSN1208.
A lot more info on these looking online for toyotas since they basically own Denso.

For the solenoid I used an AS-PL SP6009 plunger. I tried the Amazon and AliExpress kits first but insulation was too small and the plunger diameter and overall dimensions were slightly off. Probably would have worked but I wasn’t in a hurry.

Car starts fine now. Amazing how such a tiny thing kills it, saw on the online manual that the part got redone for newer models with a stronger alloy.
Spent more time putting the undertray bolts back on than refitting the starter. Not much space without lifting the car so couldn’t torque them properly but it’s fine.

And the air intake clamp is awful, I will replace it with a jubilee clip next time but it was overdue for a cleaning.
Also need to clean the top of the engine, the foam cover has completely disintegrated.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Well done!
You might want to have another go at torquing the under tray bolts again as the under tray is a part of the stressed structure of the chassis.

Yeah - some people dont know its part of the structure of the car - not just to keep the muck off and smooth the airflow.

Most car undertrays are plastic or a recycled material but not the FL2 - steel. Jules