![]() |
|
Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Members Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In |
![]() | Home > Technical > Fuel Pressure at 0 PSI with Engine off? |
![]() ![]() |
|
|
BossBob Member Since: 30 Sep 2010 Location: Bristol Posts: 1509 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If the engine isn’t running the fuel pressure is going to be zero because pump in the tank only supplies the swirl pot in the fuel tank. The mechanically driven fuel pump that sucks fuel from the tank (low pressure) via the filter and supplies the fuel rail (high pressure) is driven by one of the cam shafts. |
||
![]() |
|
Marcus97 Member Since: 14 Dec 2024 Location: Montreal Posts: 69 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This is for the petrol engine which I don't think has a high pressure fuel pump.
|
||
![]() |
|
OxonPete Member Since: 11 Jun 2024 Location: 11350 France Posts: 239 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Is car running ok……? Are you just checking with your new code reader….?
|
||
![]() |
|
Marcus97 Member Since: 14 Dec 2024 Location: Montreal Posts: 69 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The car runs fine, but I've been attempting to remedy the loooong crank times I've had with this vehicle since I bought it in December. Everything points to a leaking check valve in the fuel pump. |
||
![]() |
|
OxonPete Member Since: 11 Jun 2024 Location: 11350 France Posts: 239 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sounds feasible…..if the fuel is running back to the tank when engine is off…..
|
||
![]() |
|
Marcus97 Member Since: 14 Dec 2024 Location: Montreal Posts: 69 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'm pretty sure it requires changing the whole fuel pump. But if I can confirm that the issue is indeed the check valve (nothing serious), I'll have the peace of mind and just ignore the long crank time. |
||
![]() |
|
OxonPete Member Since: 11 Jun 2024 Location: 11350 France Posts: 239 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I imagine that will be expensive……….there must be some test to check the pump…perhaps needing to remove the pump for bench testing………….you could do with contacting someone who really knows about these machines……..! FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
|
||
![]() |
|
p_gill Member Since: 06 Dec 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1320 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Pete and Marcus,
|
||
![]() |
|
Marcus97 Member Since: 14 Dec 2024 Location: Montreal Posts: 69 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Your two pence worth is always appreciated!
|
||
![]() |
|
p_gill Member Since: 06 Dec 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1320 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Marcus,
|
||
![]() |
|
Marcus97 Member Since: 14 Dec 2024 Location: Montreal Posts: 69 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I finally had a chance to try out your Volvo recommendation, and the car wouldn't run for even a few seconds. I just cranked away and gave-up after maybe 5s. That said, it is apparently normal for the pressure to be 0 PSI before starting the engine, according to this: https://www.freel2.com/forum/post450622.html It would be interesting to know if anyone can actually get their car to start with the fuel pump fuse pulled-out. If not, then there's little doubt my fuel pump's check valve is compromised. Not sure it's worth replacing the whole pump ($500+) just for that, though. I also noticed my starting trouble actually manifest in two different ways. There's: 1) the longer than normal cranking when the vehicle hasn't been driven in awhile. However once the vehicle starts after that long crank, it will start immediately during subsequent attempts. 2) The vehicle cranking and starting, but then stalling. This happens when the engine is hot. I'm betting this is due to a "heat soak" of the camshaft sensors as seen here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sol...st-5877032 Bought new cam sensor from rockauto, will update you once installed. |
||
![]() |
|
![]() ![]() |
|
All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
