Sorry if I've not read the fix for this as I've read the dozens of posts, but none quite matched my issue.

Whilst trying to fix the many problems the car came with, suddenly the key dock is playing up!

You push the key in, foot on the brake (automatic), car in Park, press start and away she goes - all good.
But... When you want to remove the key, push it - nothing. Pull it a couple of millimetres then push, normal ejection.

When the car first arrived, the key used to come back out a couple of millimetres after going in. There were no key removal problems. Now this has stopped and turned into a fight.

The battery voltage is good. The gear position is good. I've even tried a finger poke and some spray lubricant to no avail. I've tried different keys and even a spare case.

Can the dock (Start Control Module) be removed without recoding for a checkup, clean and lube? Is it as simple as removing the trim around it and then some torx bolts?

As ever, all help gratefully received. Life is an uphill struggle. Only the gradient varies.

I wonder do you have the fob on a key ring with other stuff

Hi Mr Chips,
Nope, even tried without the key blade - just the same.
Thanks though. Life is an uphill struggle. Only the gradient varies.

We have our main fob that's a dream to use but our other fob is a bit of a nightmare to use. It feels stiffer putting it in (Oo-err), then you have to push it in just the right way for it to eject. Then even when it does eject, it's all a bit stiff and it sounds like the dock struggles to push it out. In my head I put it down to either 1 fob being more used than the other or maybe different manufacturing tolerances in the case makeup that makes 1 easier than the other to use.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4
https://www.facebook.com/ScottandAlana4x4

Have you got two fobs ?if so try the other one if not get a new one,sounds like the fob is swollen.Common problem.

These days I just use the AI 'button' on the Google Browser App

It seems to interrogate the web very quickly, including our FL2 Forum.
(anybody else beginning to feel redundant?)

I just used 'freelander 2 key fob not ejecting' in the search box --and it replied this ---

Troubleshooting steps

Check Transmission: Ensure the car is fully in "Park" and the brake pedal is pressed.

Inspect the Key Fob:
Look for swelling or damage to the fob casing.
Try using your spare key to see if the problem persists.

Inspect the Docking Slot: Carefully examine the ignition slot for any visible debris or signs of wear.

Try a Little Force: If the key is only slightly stuck, a gentle tug might free it, but avoid excessive force as it could damage the mechanism.

Clean the Docking Slot (Caution Advised):
Some users have reported success using electronics cleaner or even methylated spirits on a microfiber cloth to clean the dock.
Warning: Be extremely careful not to damage the security system or internal components when attempting this, as mentioned by a user on LandyZone.

Battery Check/Replacement: If the problem seems linked to a weak battery, replacing the key fob battery might help, as noted on cheap car keys scotland.

Reset the System: Disconnecting and reconnecting the car's battery for a few minutes might reset the system and resolve the issue, according to a forum post on Freel2.com.

Manual Ejection (as a last resort): If desperate, one online resource suggests a risky, potentially damaging workaround involving opening the dashboard and manipulating a gear within the key drawer mechanism to allow manual ejection. This should only be considered as a last resort and with extreme caution

RRUK Does New FOB Cases

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29384.html?highlight=key+fob FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 84k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

First, thank you all for your help.
Yes, I googled the same "tips" and the only one I haven't done is the main battery disconnect, which I'm worried about since I think my radio "might" have a code - which wasn't passed on when I bought it!

I've got 4 key fob "kits". All behave roughly the same way. The two I use have new batteries which I soldered on myself.

Is one key better than the others? Ooooo maybe slightly?

Has anyone got the knowhow as to whether I can take the dock unit out and clean it without reprogramming? I'm up for it if someone braver has done it! Life is an uphill struggle. Only the gradient varies.

There hasn’t been a radio code on my JLR cars. Depends if it’s an aftermarket fitment or original. The window opening endpoints will need need resetting.

Very reassuring, thanks Bob. One less thing..... etc Life is an uphill struggle. Only the gradient varies.

Just spent an utterly unrewarding morning, removing the Start Control Module from the dashboard.

I did disconnect the battery and unlike my P38 the radio wasn't upset on reconnection.

The lower panel shown as held by 4 x T20 torx screws on several guides, was held by 2 x T30 Torx and 2 x 10mm bolts. The lower panel needed the wiring for the airbag and light switch disconnecting first and is quite heavy.

The upper instrument cowl needed two 2 x T20 screws removed, together with the start button connector and some serious tugging.

The Start Control Module is an absolute b@stard to get out! Every gap is about 5mm too narrow, but after removing 3 x T20 screws disconnecting the grey plug at the rear and some swearing, out it came!

I carefully stripped it and cleaned it with brake cleaner. Then some spray grease on the cogs and slides. Everything feels silky smooth.

Refitting it was easier than I thought it would be and after connecting the battery up it all came to life, just needing the clock setting.

Was it worth it? For peace of mind = yes. For fixing the problem = no! It's exactly the same.

So here's a question. If some kind person with an original key and a vernier gauge could compare the measurements to my aftermarket keys, I'd be hugely grateful.

I have:
38.45mm at widest point across the key diameter.
18.42mm at widest point of key thickness (where button legend is highest)
15.66mm at widest point in key thickness where the groove is.
05.54mm groove diameter.
34.76mm diameter across where the "barbs" are at the front of the key.

Ok, so I know we could go on forever with this, but I'd be curious if an original is appreciably less than my key in any areas.

Thanks



 Life is an uphill struggle. Only the gradient varies.

Original fob
38.06
18.53
15.48
5.466
34.58

Newer fob (10 years old?)
38.03
18.35
15.5
5.47
34.38 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Why thank you kind sir!

Seems my key is approx 0.4mm wider.

Hmm, is any of that enough to make it slightly less keen to slide out? I'll sand it later (for amusement!) and see. Thanks again

*** Update ***
Nope, sanding it to the lesser dimensions didn't make a difference. Where's that drawing board?
 Life is an uphill struggle. Only the gradient varies.

Did you sand the tabs aswell? Previously a 2006 FR2 Diesel manual, now 2006 FR2 Petrol auto and a Series 3 109 SW.

As far as I dare, in case they stopped gripping. Life is an uphill struggle. Only the gradient varies.