New to me 2008 FL-2 3.2 Petrol JDM 156,000km, Full tank of petrol. - debugging

So today, pleasant sunny day - 10-12° (C), the FL2 started it up, drove 6 km into the village (40 km/h). I came out 5 minutes later, the engine would crank but not start. As a pushbutton, it turns over a few seconds and then stops. Tried about 10 times. Cranking sounded normal, no struggling battery. Then started pushing various buttons, turning off radio, flipping terrain controls on and off. No joy. Locked the car while sitting inside and reopened. Nothing. Tried again, nothing. Elapsed time about 10 minutes or so, then once more, nothing and again - it fires up like nothing has happened. Drives home fine, started two hours later when I put the OBD on to get readings.

This is the second time, but the first a few days ago, was just a few tries and I wasn't sure it actually was a problem. Now I know it is.

Error Codes

P061A-62 Intermittent = Torque performance of internal control modules. This code is not listed (or I cannot find it) on the FL-2 Error Code list - when I cleared it, it did not come back after starting the engine (but no driving)

U3000-87 Intermittent Control module - LR Manual states:
Control module Missing message Check CJB for DTCs and refer to DTC Index.
For additional information, refer to: Communications Network (418-00 Module Communications Network, Diagnosis and Testing).
Check information and entertainment module for Car Configuration File and MOST network DTCs and refer to relevant DTC Index. Carry out MOST/CAN network tests using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system - when I cleared it, it did not come back after starting the engine (but no driving)

U2101-00 Intermittent - Control module configuration incompatible -
Control Module Configuration Incompatible - No sub type information
Car Configuration File (CCF) information incompatible to Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS) Control Module
Check the correct Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS) Control Module is installed to vehicle specification. Refit original or replace the module as required. Refer to the new module/component installation note at the top of the DTC Index

The most significant hint was the reader showing the battery at 12.3 v with the ignition on and the engine off. This is below recommended spec, and like the Jag X350 I recently sold, I know these cars are battery sensitive. But why would it go on strike when warmed up, and then start up after 12-15 tries which generally depletes voltage?

I've done the usual Google searches, but can't find a similar set of symptoms.

If anyone has any thoughts (other than buy a new battery, which I will do tomorrow), I would appreciate it.

This may have no bearing on your issue but I think it's worth finding out. How are you starting your Freelander 2 from these 2 options?

Are you...

1. Putting the fob into the slot, foot on the brake and then pressing the start button?

-or-

2. Putting the fob into the slot, pressing and holding the start button for the dash to light up and various systems to self test, then once that's done, putting your foot on the brake and then pressing the start button again to start the engine?

I've heard of Freelander 2's struggling to start before because people don't let the computers do their various tests and it's a simple case of changing a habit of how they are starting it 😊. https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4
https://www.facebook.com/ScottandAlana4x4

Sadly #2... But someone suggested it might be a failing cam sensor. So I have to learn what that is, where it is and how hard to source a new one.

Look here for your error codes:

Not that they help much.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic17379.html (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Hi, you will find more information on a Volvo Forum. The 3.2 engine is a Ford built engine, I had the three litre twin turbo engine in a Volvo T6. There are two crankshaft, and two Cam shaft sensors. If the timing chain is very slack, the engine will give trouble starting. You will need to check the operation of those sensors with an oscilloscope, most code readers will not register those failures. Dirt under camshaft sensors inside the covers will stop the engine. Other than that, the steering column lock module is a common fault on early cars, as is a flat battery in the key. I had a broken printed circuit inside the key, once, that was a elusive fault. Two new keys off of eBay, and reprogramming them to the car, solved that one.

The 3.2 is a great engine

I’ve owned two so far

2008 LR2 3.2

2010 S80 3.2

I did write up a thread about common problems and I posted it here on FREEL2

So let’s talk for a minute about your problem

Problem statement: The 3.2 doesn’t always start when warm.


Analysis: The fuel pump is only running when needed and for a cold start it will always prime the system to build pressure. But on a warm engine if the fuel pressure sensor says that the pressure is good enough then the pump won’t run.

Additionally if the starter motor is old and it spins the engine too slow then the engine won’t start.

And finally the crank sensor needs to send a good signal to the ECU confirming that the cylinders are firing before the ECU will turn on the fuel pump


Based on the analysis I would replace the fuel sensor in the fuel rail. It is a known failure point and depending on how it fails it may not set a code.

For reference the sensor is likely a strain gauge sensor and I have recently replaced two strain gauge sensors and neither one set a code. (One was for my early HALDEX and the other was for my Mercedes MAP sensor)

Good luck

Paul

"Based on the analysis I would replace the fuel sensor in the fuel rail. It is a known failure point and depending on how it fails it may not set a code."

Hi Paul. Would you know the correct readings for the fuel sensor if it is working correctly? I'm getting 300-400 kpa when it is running and 500-650 when I turn it off.

But while I tried to replicate the heat soak condition, it would start each time, so I have not been able to measure when it is not starting.

Not running

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

When you shut down the engine the fuel pressure in the rail should rise and then as the engine cools it should decrease.

For a cold start the pressure is higher

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

So if the fuel sensor needs replacing, would it read zero after the car sits for 10 minutes and refuses to start?

I'm trying to understand what a good sensor displays before buying a replacement (which takes 10 days to get here).

Some data for a good sensor

p_gill wrote:

I did a cold start today.

0 PSI before I engaged the starter motor


On initial startup the fuel pressure spiked to 69 PSI

Then it dropped almost instantly 61 PSI


The interesting thing to note is that the RPM dropped to ~800 RPM before the fuel pressure dropped.

It took a few seconds for the pressure to drop to 55 PSI


The RPM drop seems to be attributed to the Throttle position

14.1% --> high idle

3.5% --> low idle

High Idle


Low Idle




Other things to note

MAF (Lb. / Minute) = 0.80

MAP (Inches of Hg) = 9.7




Thanks

Paul

Look at this link as well

One of the owners posted that his sensor was inconsistent at times

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/f...nt-108009/

Good luck

Paul