About to change mine this week, watched the vids , read the book, followed some Fred’s, feeling confident until I came across

“… 70Nm+60degrees.…”

70Nm I get, torque setting, but what’s with the 60degrees?

Then saw a video, guy using torque wrench, fine, them some other gizmo with numbers on it…WTF?

Any thoughts please…….before Friday…..  I USED TO have a cunning plan.....

It means that you tighten this particular bolt to 70Nm and then by another 60° of rotation.

Tighten the bolt to 70nm. Put a vertical paint line on it then tighten it further till the line is pointing 60 degrees from the vertical. Jules

I'm not sure if what I'm about to say is correct or not but I've been told that anything with a X Nm + X degrees is normally a one time use only stretch bolt. It's the amount in degrees that puts the required stretch into the bolt. But what I've been told could also be a load of rubbish too . https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

Thanks all,
Nothing in the Haynes manual apart from torque,
LR manual, shows torque then "82 (set 2)", which I'm assuming is the angle to go past torque (that manual badly needs an index / contents page)
The stretch factor for a new bolt sort of makes some logical sense, but things that stretch too much snap.....and would only apply to a new bolt (which I have). I would hate to see the effect on a an old bolt!

Anyhoo, will go to 70Nm, then 60 degrees.

I was thinking how to get the angle accurate, but then had a Doh moment!
The bolt head has 6 sides, 360 / 6 = 60.
Mark the leading edge of a flat face against wheel, turn until trailing edge is at the mark = 60 degrees.

Anyway, I will update you all with the results sometime on Friday.....

And thank you all for your input, very much appreciated, so glad I joined the forum....


Eventually one day I may be able to return the favour. I USED TO have a cunning plan.....

The angle amount is just a way for the manufacturer to guarantee a set torque value. Its probably the same as 150-200nm but for some reason the angle figure guarantees a nice tight bolt (not that 200nm isn't tight or accurate but sometimes overcoming frictional losses due to rust corrosion etc can give a false torque figure)
The angle part isn't affected by this so is generally speaking more widely used by manufacturers in critical bolts (eg subframe bolts )

BillBolderos wrote:

Thanks all,
Nothing in the Haynes manual apart from torque,
LR manual, shows torque then "82 (set 2)", which I'm assuming is the angle to go past torque (that manual badly needs an index / contents page)
The stretch factor for a new bolt sort of makes some logical sense, but things that stretch too much snap.....and would only apply to a new bolt (which I have). I would hate to see the effect on a an old bolt!

Anyhoo, will go to 70Nm, then 60 degrees.

Yes, Crankshaft Bolt


Looking at pages 823-825, Engine - TD4 2.2L Diesel - Crankshaft Pulley, Removal and Installation...
it shows 70 nm (stage 1), followed by 82 degrees (stage 2)on p. 825


So there would seem to be two different specs.....


Has anyone found an easy way to navigate this document?  I USED TO have a cunning plan.....

BillBolderos wrote:

Thanks all,

LR manual, shows torque then "82 (set 2)", which I'm assuming is the angle to go past torque [b](that manual badly needs an index / contents page)

And thank you all for your input, very much appreciated, so glad I joined the forum....


Eventually one day I may be able to return the favour.

AI mechanics…..great,
Ok, so when robotics catches up, no more sky high labour charges….or people if SkyNet reveals its tru existence……..

Still, I’ll look into this more….thanks for the link…. I USED TO have a cunning plan.....

BillBolderos wrote:

Yes, Crankshaft Bolt


Looking at pages 823-825, Engine - TD4 2.2L Diesel - Crankshaft Pulley, Removal and Installation...
it shows 70 nm (stage 1), followed by 82 degrees (stage 2)on p. 825


So there would seem to be two different specs.....


Has anyone found an easy way to navigate this document?

I agree with you Jules, 82 is the number to aim for. Paper protractor printed off ready for the morning!

For those interested in the why, the following is a simple explanation….

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/back-to-ba...monstrated I USED TO have a cunning plan.....

I did my FL2 belts/pump etc Jan ‘24…149k mls…..fairly straightforward job albeit a bit awkward.
I looked at lots of YouTube videos first…some quite funny….some useful. I noticed that some people had problems removing the crankshaft bolt due to difficult access & excess Locktite being used. It’s essential to lock the flywheel with the spécial tool in the starter aperture first so you can exert some force or even better have an impact wrench. I bought a new DeWalt which whizzed out thé bolt in a jiffy. Easy reassembly also. I was perhaps a bit miffed that I couldn’t see ANY wear on the belt or pulleys…..even the writing was intact on the belt………..still at least I know it’s been done….. I have done all the miles on it so I appreciate if you have bought the car secondhand you don’t know the history…….

Best of luck ….Pete FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Anothere thing. Be careful when attaching/removing the locking device. It uses the starter motor studs.
I dropped a nut - it bounced off my palm and into the bellhousing.

It took me several hours with an endoscope and a magnet to retrieve the nut.

Luckily I found it. The alternative would have been to take the gearbox off !!!

Click image to enlarge

Bet you were relieved Jules…..!  FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.