Trying to it to panic too much…
Brief background… motorcycle guy, 35k miles a year, no stranger to a bit of spannering, previously owned 1985 110 V8, not a chip insight.

Moved to remote area, need 4x4 come the winter, Defenders now silly money, plus I’m nearly 60 so I want a bit more comfort, bought a straight looking 97k 2010MY GS, good history file etc, test run all ok, poss diff issue (jet engine whine - intermittent) but no other knocks, grinding etc.

All geared up to do belts this week, also invested in the Autel AP200….ran first scan this afternoon …… ignorance was bliss.

But, can’t be ignored so, over to you experts out there. Have attached two images showing the faults logged, I will be spending copious amounts of time researching each one in turn, but please feel free to suggest direct links, or replies, or PMs….

Off to off licence for something to mop up my tears….


 I have a cunning plan.....!

Don't despair with these codes. A lot of codes can be flagged up if battery voltage is or has been low for any reason, discharged due to lack of use or if a battery is failing. Freelander 2's ike many modern cars are very power hungry.
I'd personally clear them all now and drive it for a couple of hundred miles then re read it to see what has come back. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I know it had been standing for a while before I picked it up,
Plus I’ve only ever done short trips until I do the belts on Friday
But in needs must, Hertford- Northampton - Peterborough and return on Thursday should do the trick hopefully….. I have a cunning plan.....!

Definitely clear all those legacy DTCs before starting on the belts (or any other work on the car). There is a certain satisfaction in clearing 50+ DTCs with the OBD reader and being left with just 4 or 5, usually random weird ones...

I agree-- clear the codes and start again.

Do you know how old is the battery, if in doubt change it for the largest that you can fit in the battery tray.

Look at Nodge's post in this thread below ---

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38965.html?highlight=battery FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Ok,
So having shelled out for 5 new tyres, belt kits, OBD reader, trolley jack, stands, etc, almost £1000 down already, so guess I’ll have to rename my trim level, Freelander 2, GS, MP Edition.

Kidding aside, thank you all, new battery will have to wait until payday, ditto with boost pack.

Until then, will clear the codes and drive the bloody thing!

RAC membership renewed…… I have a cunning plan.....!

A car that is expensive when new might get less expensive to buy as they get older. Unfortunately, maintenance costs tend to get more expensive as more needs to be done!

Yep, expected that, maybe not quite just so much, just so soon!
Anyway, can only do what I can afford as it comes up.
Belts then check over diff, PTU, Haldex, new battery can be a bit further down the list.
As long as it start when it should, stops when it should, the rest will be renewed on a preventative basis as funds allow rather than wait until something breaks.

Thanks to all have helped this not so quite newbie guy stay sane  I have a cunning plan.....!

On the plus side old cars dont depreciate much compared with newer ones. Depreciation is usually the major cost of on-going car ownership and often underestimated, so think of all the money you are actually saving by maintaining your old one. Jules