Hi

Hope someone can help I have 2013 Auto TD4 Freelander 2 and occasionally not that often when I’m heavy traffic I sometimes get a slight jerk/ jump. When going from complete stand still to movement. It feels like the breaks are holding for to long the wheels when the engine is already turning on and wants to go, and then it release it, the car jumps. And it is only happens when the car has to stop and start many times constantly.. something is overheating?

Never happens when the car is moving just occasionally when at standstill in traffic.

Also when the jump happen and if I select N and D and accelerat quickly the jump is gone, but if I hold on the break again the jump happen. ( Electric break assistant turns on after 3sec? )

What been already serviced/checked:

-Transmission oil and filter been changed 1 year ago ( could be wrong oil? )
-Fuel filter been changed
-Water pump been changed
-Crankshaft sensor been replaced to Bosch
-Haldex unit been serviced
-EGT&EGR been cleared and serviced (what show on the Diagnostic report attached)

Next thing I would like to look into is the Break calipers and the Electric handbreak. I saw many people experienced the same issue with FL2 but I can not find any exact solution, it is getting really hard now. Gearbox specialist garage has an opinion, the gearbox is just fine but they could be wrong...

Also is there any option to turn off the Electric break assistant? (sorry if it is a dumb question..)

Diagnostic report attached,

I have tried give as much details as I can, Any ideas please, any help will be much appreciated.

Thank you!

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I sometimes have the same issue, usually when the car is on a longer journey and after being stuck in traffic. I often try to take it out of gear now and put the electric handbrake on so the car is not in gear. It sometimes helps but not a real solution!

There is a gearbox 'map' which can be reset by LR or an Indy with access to the correct software which can solve this issue.
You may have had transmission oil changed previously but the filter is not accessible without removing the gearbox. Were you told / charged for filter replacement? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

As you have already been to a specialist and covered a lot of fixes this may not be relevant.

There is a 'Learning Procedure' that should smooth out the gear selection.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40790.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I have an sd4 auto without electronic brake and suffer similar symptoms you describe. I find the sd4 too responsive in stop/start and slow moving traffic and will sometimes leap or clunk if setting off too sprightly, and when moving slowly the auto will unnecessarily drop down a gear with a mild delay. To overcome this in town I select manual mode 2nd gear. The car will easily pull away on the level and gives a much smoother ride while crawling. Once moving moderately I change up through the gears manually and when slowing the gears will still reduce automatically but never drop into 1st. Once on the open highway I go back to full auto. I’ve comfortably lived with this method from 40k to its current 130k mileage so it’s not a new problem. There was never a problem with my previous Td4 or two FL1s.

The Aisin 6 Speed Autobox is used in many makes of vehicle, and if you look at their Forums you will see that complaints about slow responses are common.

Therefore FL2 Aisin Autobox also does not like sudden changes and takes a second or two to select (and ramp up pressure) the right clutch/band for the gear.

I find the effect worse when trying to maneuover in a tight space on any kind of slope. On the flat I find that the normal 'Creep' mode allows easy movement backwards and forwards.

The gearbox responds well to anticipation, for example, I have learnt to remove foot from brake at traffic lights on amber, this allows my car to be ready to drive on green without hesitation.

I have also found that the FL2 drives much smoother in 'Sport' at lower speeds, say winding B-Roads.

The autobox self learns how to make smooth gearchanges ---
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40790.html

From reading different Forums the most likely causes of ragged changes are the ATF (G/box Fluid), a clogged up G/box Valve Chamber, or failing G/box Fluid Pressure valve.

On my car the hill 'Brake Hold' and 'Auto Off Electronic Brake' functions work reasonably smoothly. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Bobupndown wrote:

There is a gearbox 'map' which can be reset by LR or an Indy with access to the correct software which can solve this issue.
You may have had transmission oil changed previously but the filter is not accessible without removing the gearbox. Were you told / charged for filter replacement?

I'm talking about the actual automatic gearbox Jules, not the haldex.  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

The Aisin Warner Gearbox filter is in the gearbox, behind third gear. Some Volvo forum posts suggest that it is possible by removing the metal cover, (no oil in box), and accessing it. My workshop manual says to strip the box to access the filter. The Volvo Forums suggest that after high miles the Valve Block gets indentations worn in the galleries, so making oil pressure vagarities as the balls oscillate at high speed when modulating oil pressure as gears change, and clutches operate. The Transmission Control Module eventually no longer is able to accurately give smooth changes, and the balls can cause harsh gear changes, and also lock-ups in going down through third to second, and can break transmission parts with the sudden gear movements. My Volvo used to do that, and it is not nice, as one can think the transmission has broken suddenly, usually I had it happen after braking into a Roundabout, at high speeds, well, alright, then, racing speeds, when a BMW is in the way!

I have had the same issue but only in hot weather.

Now if I feel conditions are right for the problem to reveal itself i.e. hot weather and very slow moving traffic, whenever I come to a stop i move into Neutral until time to move on. This stops it happening pretty much completely.

Incidently it does say in the handbook that whenever the vehicle comes to a stop to put the gear box into park or neutral. They must know all about this when they manufacturer the damn things.

Also I have read on this forum the cause for this jolt is the longer the car is held in Drive with foot on the brake pressure builds up in the gearbox which is fine but sooner or late some seals weaken and allow fluid to pass which causes the jolt when releasing the brake.

I have changed oil twice and had the Software update to no avail. However I am not sure they did the post software re-learning drive......pretty sure they didn't. So not sure if that means the update was a waste of time or not. Would love to sort this somehow.

I was wondering if the gearbox oil cooler gets blocked up and no longer cools the oil sufficiently therefore creating too much heat and expansion of the oil???? anyone???

I'm now going to try the Sport Mode technique described above...thanks!

b.balazs wrote:

Hi

Hope someone can help I have 2013 Auto TD4 Freelander 2 and occasionally not that often when I’m heavy traffic I sometimes get a slight jerk/ jump. When going from complete stand still to movement. It feels like the breaks are holding for to long the wheels when the engine is already turning on and wants to go, and then it release it, the car jumps. And it is only happens when the car has to stop and start many times constantly.. something is overheating?

Never happens when the car is moving just occasionally when at standstill in traffic.

Also when the jump happen and if I select N and D and accelerat quickly the jump is gone, but if I hold on the break again the jump happen. ( Electric break assistant turns on after 3sec? )

What been already serviced/checked:

-Transmission oil and filter been changed 1 year ago ( could be wrong oil? )
-Fuel filter been changed
-Water pump been changed
-Crankshaft sensor been replaced to Bosch
-Haldex unit been serviced
-EGT&EGR been cleared and serviced (what show on the Diagnostic report attached)

Next thing I would like to look into is the Break calipers and the Electric handbreak. I saw many people experienced the same issue with FL2 but I can not find any exact solution, it is getting really hard now. Gearbox specialist garage has an opinion, the gearbox is just fine but they could be wrong...

Also is there any option to turn off the Electric break assistant? (sorry if it is a dumb question..)

Diagnostic report attached,

I have tried give as much details as I can, Any ideas please, any help will be much appreciated.

Thank you!

Hi,

How can we "programmatically disable the automatic neutral function" ? Is this something that a workshop with the right software can do? Or is this what the recommended Software update does....but doesn't work.....?

You think it's possible that if the oil level is not correct, especially too much oil it makes it even worse?

I've had the oil changed twice now and each time they inovice me for 5 litres of oil but the volume of oil is more than this. I suspect they are just disconnecting hoses and sucking out what they can and replacing it but I believe the correct method is to drain from below and refill until the oil begins to seep out over the internal vertical pipe? Am I Right? Perhaps too much oil creates too much pressure no?