Low Battery warning could be the Key Battery is low in charge. The later keys have a CR2032 internal battery, and not a re-chargable type. My SD4 was showing low battery messages, I changed the key battery, then the main battery, as it was charging at 16.5 volts. Hope that helps you.

Had email to say new post to Chrism551 thread……a few interesting posts….is car better now…?

Replying to Jagracer : 16.5 volts charging seems a bit too high…..suggesting alternator problem….??
Have my own battery problem at mo : Thursday last we went shopping….wife bought frozen food…so with temperature being 27deg I had cool-box running in the boot…..I left it connected whilst we went to have bit of lunch…..40 mins later came back to car…..couldn’t open it …thought it was keyfob…wife tried her spare one…..no good. Opened car with the key via left-hand door….first time ever. Started car with my trusty JS 3000 booster…..charging well….14v. Exide battery that I fitted January ‘24 went completely dead after max 40 mins of discharge at 6amps draw…..! We were parked walking distance from à French Halfords….Norauto who said that they could get me a new Varta next day. They didn’t….have to collect Monday………present Exide goes flat after few minutes……..doubt it’s a system drain.. but will see.
As an aside I have thé ‘over 20deg’ occasional stuttering back…..as per my thread Home/Technical ….top of page.
Interesting link my IanMetro about Aisin transmission…clever stuff……. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

A quick update on this. It's 2 weeks just about since I fitted a new battery and since then I have had no more warning messages come up on the info screen so I take that as fixed. Interesting considering it warned of low battery but the car started perfectly.
On the second issue of the car suddenly losing power in warm weather, like limp mode or severely reduced power, with no codes recorded, I did fit a new filter, only had a MANN one available to replace the Luften filter fitted. To date the car hasn't lost power since, even on the hottest days it seems to run the same way, and I have driven it hard to try and force the issue to re appear but so far it seems OK.

So a few weeks on and all seemed to be going ok, until today. Had a gearbox fault warning light come on while going uphill on the motorway, no loss of power thankfully as towing at the time. Came off at next junction, and car i changing gear perfectly, both up and down. only thing that has changed is its now jolting when drive is selected from neutral, seems more also to be jolting from the rear rather than the front. Another interesting feature it seems to have shuddering through the seat / sterring wheel over 75mph, almost as if a wheel is out of balance. Does feel more that something is off at the rear, rather than the front. Question is could a dodgy haldex cause this error or am i looking at auto issue. Did have a torque convertor lock up solenoid fault on last scan but that was cleared along with an array of other codes when the battery was replaced. Think its getting ready for a full fluid service anyway. Ideas thoughts welcome as always

Never having had a problem with transmission or Haldex I have no experience with this …but lots of other contributors have……
Since you say noise coming from rear points to Haldex problem…..so I guess pulling the Haldex fuse & testing for noise would seem a good idea……..
Also , are there any fault codes …?
As ever you have to take it step by step…..

À quick update on my battery experience from 25/5……..since I fitted new battery 27/5 car has run much better…no stuttering /hestitation…….!! Despite driving in 35+ deg…! Can’t quite understand why….but all good so no worries…!! They are weird motors…..!
Good luck….Pete FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Chrism551 wrote:

So a few weeks on and all seemed to be going ok, until today. Had a gearbox fault warning light come on while going uphill on the motorway, no loss of power thankfully as towing at the time. Came off at next junction, and car i changing gear perfectly, both up and down. only thing that has changed is its now jolting when drive is selected from neutral, seems more also to be jolting from the rear rather than the front. Ideas thoughts welcome as always

An update on this for you all, car went into transmission shop and was test driven with no major issues. Fault code of torque convertor lock up solenoid was present. Based on the experience of bumping into drive and notchy down changes i was advised to replace the valve block. They said individual solenoids could be swapped, but the valve block itself was known to wear out. A new one was fitted with a fluid change and a reset of adaptions and its hugely improved, changes are smoother, no bumpy downshifts, no bumping into gear so hopefully sorted. Will post seperately for the remaining issues.

Was this a gearbox out job to replace the valve block.
Might I ask what was the cost? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Gearbox stayed in, remove sump, drop the fluid and valve block, replace and rebuild. New fluid, Reset adaptions and off you go. They had another one there aswell for same issue but no codes. They said its possible to renew individual solenoids and the lock up solenoid, but said it was a false economy. The solenoids get heavy use as they are pulsed now rather thatn just on / off so get a lot of hammer. To be fair, it drove better after it was done but still not super smooth, but they did say it takes a while of driving to relearn everything and true to their word a week later it is hugely improved, seemless changes etc. Big test will be next time i tow, if it faults again.
Total cost £1128.00 as below

Parts £520
Fluid £60
Labour £360
Vat £ 188.00

Assuming the valve block is behind the black cover then? Never actually thought of this as a sump as it sits sideways rather than below the box.

 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I guess so, one of the parts supplied was a sump gasket, so it must be in there somewhere. Hopefully its cured it as another transmission shop i rang declared it as needing a full rebuild at 3.5k plus vat, just based on the lock up solenoid code alone, not even with a test drive for that diagnosis.