Hello all.

Ive been chasing a fault for a while (engine cuts out, P0045-19 main error - then occasionally low fuel rail pressure) actuator changed twice now onto a new actuator and turbo (it was yapping too - all fixed when running)

no faults in the wiring and low pressure side all good - tones of other work done.

With all this a freelander specialist concluded it must be the ECU.

I sent it to 'ECU testing' to be tested and or fixed and they are unable to so as they dont have the equipment or rig for this model etc.

So... i'm stuck!

I believe you can't just replace the ECU with a used one?
Is there anywhere you know who might be able to test?
Any other options?

Part number is: 6691-12A650-AD GEGD

from a 2007 2.2 diesel HSE.

Cheers!

Andy

With a vehicle of that age I would expect damage/corrosion of connecting pins or wiring insulation.

I would not expect the electronics to be intermittent unless physically damaged.

So if you have proof that the ECU is giving or receiving duff gen then look carefully at pins and adjacent wiring.

Also look at/check associated sensors because they often can become worn or damaged. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks Ian. I've had the harness out and gone over it and there is no damage i can see and the tests all seem fine. I replaced the leg down to the turbo and down to the crankshaft sensor.

the ECU pins are clean however the unit had some corrosion on it... but this brushed off easily. No idea what it was like inside, as the back panel wouldn't come off after undoing the screws... but did not want to prise open as i was sending it away

When I had my BMW remapped in 2010, the chap put the ECU in a small oven and heated it up, monitoring the temp with an IR thermometer - to soften the glue and allow the case halves to separate with a screwdriver. Jules

That does look like a lot of corrosion on the casing, perhaps it has allowed water through the lid seal.

Jules has the right idea, soften the seal with gentle heat, I found this video on line.



An internal inspection and clean up (with IPA?) may solve a lot of problems. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Cheers guys. I don’t think I’d want to open it to check myself….

Ideally send somewhere if anyone can recommend?

Alternatively I think there are some companies that can clone?

Or… I can buy the same model on eBay…. What would happen if I plugged one of these in?

Cheers!

ecu doctor ,repairs in plymouth,done 2 for me on vauxhalls.obviously deals by post,give him a ring.

Hello, been there myself, had a Canbus not communicating fault. Believe it or not, it was the Starter Motor Solenoid on a New Starter Motor. The engine has to complete an ECU start-up confirmation, every time it starts. The information you want is in a Chip in the Fusebox behind the Glovebox, and in the circuit board in the instrument panel. So one cannot swap easily from another car, as it is car specific. The fusebox gets water off the Battery leak into it and the circuit board corrodes behind the fuse board. If the footwell is wet, then it leaks there.

Thanks jagracer.

I haven’t noticed any dampness there but will look to see…

I do know prior to the owning, the car had canbus work carried out…. No idea where to start to test/diagnose….

Cheers

Ac