Just to let you know I check the wire colours with the pin outs of the three main connectors to ID each one

So the Green connector is C1BP02A, the Brown Connector is C1BP02B & the Blue connector is C1BP02C.

The two wire power connector is C1BP02G and the final connector is C1BP02H

Very interesting breakdown and identification of CJB components.
I think that when you have finished your investigations it would be worth producing your findings, with illustrations, into a separate Forum Thread under a Central Junction Box title.
It would be a handy addition to our Forum Knowledge. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Yes happy to do that once I get to the end.

This weekend I'm going to make up some test wires to check the energising signal pins and see what that tells me.

My quest continues.

Yeah great documentation and once complete worthy of a stickie...

I have been puzzled by the term 'Comfort Relay' and have been searching around.

Found this that makes me believe it is a signal that isolates power usage during 'engine start phase' to the climate control and seats, and also keeps the 'starting solenoid' engaged until the engine fires.
https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/wont-s...ck.204145/

It seems we are not the only ones looking for it, I do wonder if it just a signal used during starting and is not an actual relay.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post638367.html

There is also a feed to the Engine Junction Box marked Comfort Relay.
This turns out to be Feed for Cigar Lighter. Relay Aux Circuits.

Click image to enlarge

I think that now is the time to make a single drawing of all of the 'Comfort Relay' signal paths as it looks like a loom/connector problem.

Having it on a single drawing should enable you to see what is working, and what is not, and see the most likely spot for the break.

I have not checked if there is more than one pin out of the PCB/CJB with the 'Comfort Relay' signal.

If it is a PCB failure then most likely are dry joints or hairline cracks in tracking.

I cant see on your picture but a lot of PCBs are multi layer and have tracks concealed within board. These don't often fail but the 'plated holes' joining them through the layers do.

If you can find the actual break in the Loom/Connectors it is better than just changing out the whole loom and perhaps introducing a new fault.

I wonder if the 'Comfort Relay' signal is the inverse of the 'Starter Solenoid' signal. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hello all,

I have been looking further and the signals from the cigar lighter and the climate control do just come from the same pin CBP02A-48. I think the comfort relay might be just some output from the "Comfort Algorithm" which the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) module uses?

I've searched through the wiring diagrams to find all the connections between pin C1BP02A-38 and the energising pin on Relay 5 (R101), pin C1BB01A-38 on the battery Box.

All of them show a direction connection between C1BP02A-38 and C1BB01A-38, with no splicers or other connections. The wiring shows the cable to be Purple and green with a 0.5mm2 cross section and 2345mm long. This length does suggest there are no other connections.

Yesterday I swopped over the sun light sensor and that didn't change anything and the outside temp sensor swop didn't change anything either. I had my IID tool logged on and before I put the key in I got the comfort relay error and once I put the key in and switched on this went away. That is how the manual says you clear that fault so that would suggest the comfort relay (or whatever it is) is working as it should.

So I ordered some 0.5mm2 cross section auto wire from Car Builder Solutions, it turned up today and tomorrow I'll test the continuity between the two pins to see if the cable is damaged.

Following seeing that comfort relay error and it going away when I powered the car up I'm beginning to think it is a damage to that cable or to the relay end of the cable.

Tomorrow could be the day Skynet starts (That means judgement day for the younger ones out there)

I think that you may already have these Cct Diagrams, but they do seem to layout the systems better than the Repair Manual ones.

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...TS_LHD.pdf

I seem also to remember a Thread on the Forum where someone had the the Fuse Box out to repair the Cct Board track that ran to the 12v Sockets.

I have found it, but it was the Passenger Well Fuse Box, so not much help.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34833.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Afternoon Freelander 2 Fans,

Well what a day I have found the problem, the cable from pin C1BP02A-48 to the relay is broken.

I disconnected the battery and left it a while. During this time I made up a test wire and plugged it into pin 48 on the connector C1BP02A (Green one):




I then tested the relay connection and it was open circuit:




To prove I have the correct pin I did the same for pin 45 which feeds relay 7 and pin 5 which feed relay 6. These were both connected.










Sorry about the pictures I can't seem to get them in the correct orientation.

That is where the good news stops! The rest of the day I have spent trying to get the Battery Junction Box (BJB) out. It seems to be in two grey sections which are housed in a black container. This has one bolt holding it down, towards the headlight. Then some clips holding it to the bulk head.

The grey sections seem to be held in with some clips:




But I simply can't get it out. It moves but not by much. Does anyone know if I need to pull harder?

I need to get underneath it to check on the connector and to attached a new wire to fix it.

So generally a positive day. As the cable is broken I am assuming the CEM is fine and the signal is trying to get to the relay but the damaged wire is stopping it.

Well Done for Keeping Going.

So far a great result, and I'm hoping you will find a simple fix.

It's the finding of 'simple' problems, and fixes, that is hard and requires an awful lot of determination.

From the look of his pictures I think J00ppis may be able to help you find how to dismantle the BJB, why not PM him for help.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39718.html?highlight=project FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hello all,

I have found out how to remove the internals of the fuse box. I, again, found a cheap one on The Bay to practice on, that's why you can see a lot of cut wires.

You need to remove the side cover which exposed the big vertical fuses down the side.

There are then three clips which are internal to the fuse box, I'm trying to point at them in these pictures:







You can see them in-situ in this picture:





The is a final external clip which is below the 100A fuse, I'm pointing at it with my screwdriver:




The internals then come out and the black plastic lower surround stays in place.

I found the wire to the relay and I know which wire loom it comes in on, there seems to be at least two looms which come into the fuse box.




However, as you can see from the underneath of the fuse box the wires goes into the relay terminals individually and it is quite a mess!




So my plan has changed. I'm going to take the battery out and battery box to give me more room and find the wire in the loom. I'll remove some of the outer protection and check the continuity to the relay terminal and to the pin on C1BP02A. If it connects to the relay and not to the pin I know the damage section is between this point and the pin of C1BP02A. If it connects to the pin but not to the relay then the damage is from this point forward to the relay terminals.

Hopefully it is the former so I don't have to try to disturb the birds nest of wires under the fuse box.

Incidentally I found a little tool on the underside of the relay box:







Does anybody know what this is? Perhaps for a fuse but why under the fuse board? To remove a terminal inside a connector? I'm not sure.

If you are still reading then I assume you like random information I saw some wires where joined together with electrical tape over the joint. I removed the tape to see how the wires were joined and they seemed to be pressed together with no sign of solder? Just a compression joint?




So that's the end of the random information for this update

At a guess, looking at that Brown-Red 1+3 wiring junction, it is this combination feeding the wipers.

There are a couple of other possibilities of Brown-Red feeding auxiliary 12v sockets but they do not match the 1+3 connection.

Although I have never ever come across a compressed connection like this, I think it is not relevant to your problem (although interesting?)

Click image to enlarge

well done.
Deserving of a Gold Medal for perseverance IMO Jules

I could not agree more!

I would have gladly recruited him (RPA) onto a problem solving team. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

YIPPEE IT'S FIXED

In the end it took me about an hour and I used approx. 1m of 0.5cm2 cross-section wire which I brought from Car Builders Solutions which cost 36p. So with some solder, shrink wrap and some electrical tape the cost of the repair was about 50p.....and about 80 man hours and £300 ish of bits I brought to understand the problem.

So it was the energising signal to relay 5 which was broken and once I replaced the wire, voltage appeared on fuse 39, the cigar lighter worked and all the blend motors worked

The way I did it was to remove the battery but then I couldn't find the correct wire so I removed the fuse boxes. This allowed me to trace the wire back and make sure I had the correct one.









Once I found the correct wire, and after three double checked, I remove some of the insulation and tested the continuity back to the relay.



Happily it was connected, so the breck in the wire had to be from this point back through the loom towards the connector. I tested the continuity in this direction and it was open circuit.



I wasn't sure if I should cut the old wire and solder the new one on or just splice into the wire. In the end I decided to cut the wire. This wire carries an earth to energise the relay and I thought if the other end is just floating, with respect to earth, then it might affect the signal and I'd be back to square one. So I cut the wire, this was the most nerve racking part of the process. I used shrink wrap and electrical tape to ensure the end was sealed. Then put blue loom tape over it. I had no intention of taking the wire out as it would have been much too difficult, so I sealed both ends and left it in place.

The new wire is purple and I soldered it into place and then shrink wrap, electrical tape and blue loom tape.



Once I put the fuse box back and all the covers it look ok, well to me anyway!



I did keep checking the continuity from the relay to the other end of the new wire and it was ok, showing the solder joint was good.

The next issue was how to get the new wire through the bulkhead?

I had planned to drill a hole in the bulk head and use a waterproof connector so it was all sealed. As I was looking at the best place to do this, I didn't want to drill into the central electronic module, I noticed the bonnet release cable.



This comes in from the passenger footwell and so, after I moved some sound deadening, I found it.



It was in the perfect place, so I used some strimmer wire to go through the grommet and into the engine bay. I connect the new wire and pulled it back through and it was in the perfect place with no new holes in the bulk head, simples



I cut the old cable as far above the connect as I could to give me room and soldered the new wire to it. Traditional shrink wrap, electrical tape and blue loom wire and it was all good.







I tested from pin 48 to the relay and it was connected. So just had to put the battery etc back.

BUT...before that I had a few other jobs to do. When I thought it was a poor earth I found out that some people have put in a second earth from the battery to the top bolt of the starter motor. When we start ours FL2 the wipers would go once, which is a symptom of the poor earth so I fitted that.

Also I read that the bottom inlet to the airbox can rub of the loom causing issues:



I took the airbox out to fit the second earth and saw the outer loom wrapping was damaged but none of the wires were. So I put some extra loom tape around this. I also replaced some of the airbox rubber supports as they had slit (LR000753).

I also saw a small bowl of water, so I clear that and drilled a small hole at the bottom so it could drain out.





That all done, battery back in and power up and it was all good, faults cleared ok and lovely cold air in the car and the cigar socket had power too

I have learnt from this that if you can buy some of the bits you can understand the design before you delve into the car, that helped me a lot.

Right celebration drink and sit down in the garden