A more likely cause for cutting out is the crank sensor, which is a known failure point, or the throttle body, again a known failure point. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks, we'll keep those in mind.

Don’t forget the crank sensor wiring connector. That has caused problems for some people.

Hi if you get it running take it to the car wash have the top one
come out and look under the bonnet

Hello CTAUTOS. "have the top one come out" Sorry, I don't understand what you mean.

I think that they mean the 'top-level' car wash, I would say take care as most car washes include under-car jets with the most expensive car wash choice.
It may be counter-productive for finding an under-bonnet water source.

If your car is waterproof, this level of car wash should normally cause no problems, I put my car through the ultra program about once a month, as it includes a layer of polish. (I park under trees and suffer from aphids dropping sugary spots) I normally preclean the brake dust of wheels and the mud from hard to reach surfaces - worth doing as it gives a good finish. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 84k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 16th May 2024 10:47 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Oh, OK. Thanks. I've never used a car wash!

Update-the problem turned out to be nothing to do with water, just a faulty injector which has now been replaced. Thanks for all the contributions.