2014 car, 50,000 miles. First drivetrain oil change (Auto Trans, PTU, Haldex, Diff)

The 2013-15 cars have a large flange that prevents removal of the Haldex pump when doing a service.

I’ve seen enough videos showing the gunk to be concerned that I can’t do this. Would new oil with fresh additives dissolve that gunk?

I’m not up to removing the driveshaft myself and I’m in New Zealand where I can’t even get a main dealer to give me a price for cambelt change so finding someone who would do this for me will be challenging.

Filter has been changed. Oil will be when I can persuade the frigging fill bolt off!!

Im not concerned about giving the new filter and oil a short life. If leaving this for 10,000 miles and doing the oil and filter again will remove that gunk, that would be a great result. (Although the filter replacement is a B*I*T*C*H - took me all day)

I’m guessing no one knows the gunk dissolving answer for sure, but be interested in opinions. I mean to know, you’d have to inspect the pump, see the gunk, not clean it and run with new oil and look again. No one is going to do that !!

If I only get 500ml into the unit I will certainly run for a few months and swap the oil out one more time as I have that full litre.

If I had known about this before I would have done annual oil changes on the Haldex, leaving the filter until the requisite 40,000 miles. We live and learn ….

DirtyDuck wrote:

2014 car, 50,000 miles. First drivetrain oil change (Auto Trans, PTU, Haldex, Diff)

The 2013-15 cars have a large flange that prevents removal of the Haldex pump when doing a service.

I’ve seen enough videos showing the gunk to be concerned that I can’t do this. Would new oil with fresh additives dissolve that gunk?

I’m not up to removing the driveshaft myself and I’m in New Zealand where I can’t even get a main dealer to give me a price for cambelt change so finding someone who would do this for me will be challenging.

Filter has been changed. Oil will be when I can persuade the frigging fill bolt off!!

Not too much gunk in the filter…

Problem is finding a Landrover specialist in NZ.

One that comes “highly recommended “ locally, only does post 2013 cars and routine services and diagnostic. Basically oil changer with a laptop. 🤦‍♂️ and he calls himself a specialist!!!

jules wrote:

I had an issue with my Haldex and took it a independent LR specialist - he changed the massive flange for the smaller one FOC - made no difference to the car and I can get the pump out now without taking the haldex off now.

That's a good move!

https://hartmansinc.shopamsoil.com/synthet...roductive.

According to this from amsoll, fresh synthetic oil can break down sludge.

In hindsight, changing the haldex oil only (without filter ) is so easy (even without jacking the car up) I’d do this annually with the oil change. In my next life I’ll be better! 🤣

The pump really does need removing, as the screen clogs up with bits that won't break down.
 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Some of the debris collected by the screen is the surface of the friction material from the clutch plates that is part of the Haldex. They’ll never break down and need removing hence the changeable filter and cleanable screen.

Would it be safe to conclude that the oil flows through the pump first and then through the (main) filter? This seems the only way this stuff could get there and also as the pump is low and the filter high seems to be logical.

The fluid flows through the pump screen, then through the pump itself, before going onto the filter and then the fluid gallery. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.