The latch release mechanisms do fail, although it seems to be common that the nylon gear thingy fails so you'd still hear a click or clunk from the electrical actuator. But the electrical part might have failed too.

Have you checked for voltage from the plug? Hook up a voltmeter and press the button on the fob to open it, and see if the voltage jumps. May need a helper to hold the wires or push the button.

It's much more likely that the mechanism latch itself failed, I replaced mine recently, it's very easy to do once the rear gate plastic cover is removed... just three (torx) screws and the plug. Good news is that the latch is relatively cheap for JLR ($100), I think it's a Ford part.

You DON'T need to remove the gate handle/ license plate light to replace the latch mechanism, that's only for the switch.

If the gate is stuck closed, I was able to use a screwdriver to push the actual latch part to open it... push it to the starboard side of the vehicle (pax side US, drivers side UK). It's a bit awkward laying down in the trunk, may want a helper to hold a bright light so you can see what you're doing.

I think I have the problem

Tailgate dead . Won't work on dashboard switch not fobs. No noise no clicking just dead. Fuel flap locking and unlocking ok.

Problem is tailgate is closed and appears locked.

Best way to get it open ? Does it sound more than a switch problem? FL2 SD4 XS 2013 Orkney Grey

Problem sorted ( for time being anyway!)

From inside car; I removed the two screws from the closure handle recesses on the interior trim panel . The panel is then only secured by clips along the top edge and pop in studs down the side. Careful pricing by hand and a sharp tug on the side brought the panel away although it was still trapped at the bottom by the closed latch. I eased it back to gain access to the latch. I pulled of the electrical plug with long nosed pliers and then on a whim and remembering how many times turning off and back on works, I reconnected the plug,tried my fob and bingo it worked and the tailgate opened - magic! Why I don't understand? I will leave the trim off for a week or two to make sure it continues to operate.
Not sure how to operate the latch manually if unplugging and replugging the connector doesn't work? Anybody know?

Tips which may help others, mainly gleaned from this forum but summarised for clarity:

If tailgate stops working on manual switch above number plate but still works on the fob, it is the micro switch in the handle that is faulty.

If fuel filler cap stops working as well as the tailgate it is a fuse. Which one? Not sure but some say F25 but my handbook says nothing about fuel filler cap for F25? ( mine is MY 2013 ) can anybody confirm? My filler cap was still working so I didn't check the fuse.

If tailgate is dead on manual handle switch, fob and dashboard it is the latch or its connection - as mine was.

Hope this may help others.

. FL2 SD4 XS 2013 Orkney Grey

To open a non-operative latch from the inside, see my previous post. It can be done with all the trim in place.

Still can't see how you undo the latch from the inside even with the trim removed? Fortunately for me the plug provided the solution. FL2 SD4 XS 2013 Orkney Grey

The latch is held in place only by spring force. All you have to do is push on the right spot with a screwdriver and it will move sideways and unlatch.

OK thank you
Didn't think it would be so simply  FL2 SD4 XS 2013 Orkney Grey

Finally got round to sorting this but thought some info and part numbers may be useful to others.

To recap
Initially my tailgate remained shut and locked and did not respond to handle switch or fob.
I freed it by removing the tailgate plastic trim panel, unplugging and replugging the connector on the latch. Why this worked I have no idea?
After 6 months or so it became unresponsive again but the same procedure freed it again.
Then during this winter the handle switch no longer worked but it still worked on the fob so no real problem.
A week ago it started unlocking randomly when opening doors and starting the car etc, so time to change the handle switch. The old switch was clean dry with no visible problems. Fitted the new one and tested it. The latch worked shut the tailgate and then again became unresponsive to handle and fob. This time unplugging and replugging had no effect. So I removed the 3 torx bolts and opened the tailgate leaving the latch locked onto the staple bar. After much probing and pushing I decided to destroy the latch to get it off !
I fitted a recon genuine latch and all now works fine. So I needed both a replacement handle switch and replacement latch yet both looked fine from the outside. No sure what the relationship between the two is and whether problems with one can affect the other?

Part numbers
Handle micro switch and wiring.
I was advised by LR dealership to fit LR 083610 for post 2012 facelift which mine is. Genuine version cost £38. It includes additional connectors which are for reversing camera which my vehicle does not have. Version for pre facelift vehicles is LR079909 which is cheaper and has no camera connectors and looks identical to my original.Are these two parts wired differently? Powerful UK sell a version of LR079909 but also claim it is unsuitable for facelift vehicles? The camera connectors are now just dangling on my vehicle but assume this is not a problem.
Latch
Various part numbers for this but all seem to fit fine. Most common are LR014184 and LR072417. Seems a common part with RRS and Evoque. Got mine from an online breaker , came from a 2012 Freelander, cost £29.

Hope some of this maybe useful. FL2 SD4 XS 2013 Orkney Grey

for a jun 2013 fl2 with reversing camera what is thew correct part number please?
is it LR083610

Hi,
This weekend I have just replaced the switch on my May 2013 HSE with reversing camera and self opening tailgate, LR083610 was the part number I purchased from woodacre4x4 after asking them to confirm.

All removed and fitted very easily as per pics on this forum.

Hope that helps

Pete

Well I ordered part number LR083610 from John Craddocks
it arrived, I waited a week for weather to improve and got round to doing it on Sunday
Old one out (guides are great!)
open box and the new one has no reversing camera part to the loom. I had to cut cables and solder
Peeved didn't come close

reminds me i have to do mine at some point when the weather gets better . 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Tailgate dead . Won't work on dashboard switch not fobs. No noise no clicking just dead. Not fuel cap either. In dahboard it say tailgate open. Latch and switch is new.
I suspect something with power or broken wire. Fuse F25 is OK.
Tailgate is open and dismantled. Have mesured and have no signal here.
I will try to put some signal/power in to the wires to se if message in dashboard change or something works. Have the electric chema, but not sure if they should be feeded with 12 v pluss or minus.
Someone knows?

Had the very intermittent tail gate release button after a fairly long period of standing on the drive unused over this last winter. I bought a new one from Britpart to swap the old one out but by the time I got round to doing the job, normal service had been resumed with the existing one.

It hasn't failed to work since Now I have the spare one ready to fit the old one will probably outlast me and the car

FL2-DM wrote:

Tailgate dead . Won't work on dashboard switch not fobs. No noise no clicking just dead. Not fuel cap either. In dahboard it say tailgate open. Latch and switch is new.
I suspect something with power or broken wire. Fuse F25 is OK.
Tailgate is open and dismantled. Have mesured and have no signal here.
I will try to put some signal/power in to the wires to se if message in dashboard change or something works. Have the electric chema, but not sure if they should be feeded with 12 v pluss or minus.
Someone knows?