Volrider wrote:

But I wonder, is this pre facelift cars that have the issues? Mine is a very low miles (18k) 14 plate, was it sorted on the later models?

I 100% agree that the right way to do this is measure the Voltage drop while cranking

.03 Volts looks like a typo to me
(Should be 0.300 Volts)


Note: I measured the Positive side of the circuit and the negative side of the circuit

Copied from a post I wrote in 2017

Here are my results for the voltage drops for your reference

Edit: Results are for 3.2 Petrol but diesel should be similar (Removing the fuse for the diesel to prevent starting may not work)

I removed the fuse for the fuel pump so that my LR2 wouldn't start it will only crank (the fuse in in the box by the front passengers feet)

Battery voltage (initial) 12.25 Volts

Battery voltage (cranking) 10.97 Volts (less than 9 Volts, replace the battery)

Voltage drop (cranking) B+ post to exposed copper on the cable .047 Volts

Voltage drop (cranking) B+ post to alternator cable .240 volts

Voltage drop (cranking) B- post to valve cover .381 Volts

As a general rule the total voltage drop (excluding the starter) should be less than 1 Volt

In my case .047 + .240 + .381 = .668 Volts total drop (not including the starter)

A good target is .3 Volts for the positive and .3 volts for the negative

In my case positive side is .287 volts and negative is .381 volts

If its not clear where I made the measurement let me know and I'll take some pictures


Note: the extra earth lead fix will help with the voltage drop on the negative side of the connection in my case .381 volts


If your measurements are the same or better than what is shown above I wouldn't make any changes to the positive or negative connections.


Good luck

Paul

Last edited by p_gill on 1st Mar 2021 7:42 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I think if this is the case I will search for a thread on what cable to get and how to fit it, thanks for explaining it all to a thicko like me  2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

Andy131 wrote:

........... melted wiring anyone?

You have to remember I was a forklift engineer for many years, these have huge batteries, and a poor connection that can "only" carry 500A and is trying to pull 800A for an extended period of time can cause all sorts of fun, you get used to looking not for resistance but for voltage drop.

To do this test on a diesel without starting the engine. I wonder if unplugging the crank shaft sensor connector would work?

jules wrote:

I didnt connect to the starter motor as this threaded hole on top of the autobox seemed perfect for an additional earth cable.

Probably an M8. You could just go to Halfords and pick up a small selection packet or metric bolts for a couple of £  2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

I just put the cable under a starter motor bolt
, one of the bellhousing bolts.
Didn't add any bolts to the gearbox as it was under landrover warranty still from new.
Had enough drama getting the dealer to accept the mod under warranty without sticking another bolt in the gearbox.

Dealership couldn't fix all the issues and when I did they wanted to decline anymore warranty. Then they wonder why sales decline. Joke eh Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Nodge68 wrote:

Probably an M8. You could just go to Halfords and pick up a small selection packet or metric bolts for a couple of £

oldgeezer wrote:

I just put the cable under a starter motor bolt
, one of the bellhousing bolts.
Didn't add any bolts to the gearbox as it was under landrover warranty still from new.
Had enough drama getting the dealer to accept the mod under warranty without sticking another bolt in the gearbox.

Dealership couldn't fix all the issues and when I did they wanted to decline anymore warranty. Then they wonder why sales decline. Joke eh

When I did mine I replaced one of the starter bolts with one that has a short stud on the head. The part number is LR012452 which has an M8 stud. On eBay for £2.89 + 79p postage...

I ran the cable with the others that go past the thermostat and round to the corner of the battery box and in under the existing grommet after drilling a suitably sized hole. That bit of the battery box can be unclipped...

I used the 170 amp cable with a 6mm eye on one end and an 8mm eye on the other. 6mm stud on negative battery terminal.

I also did the mod on my father in laws, but used a different version of the bolt with an M6 stud on which is p/n LR001360 as the cable I ordered had 6mm eyes both ends. Also 170 amp.

The bolts were used on vehicles with stop start which do have the additional earth from the factory...

After 35 years in engineering I'm a tad OCD, so wanted to go for a factory look to the job...

Click image to enlarge

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Quote:

jules wrote:

I didnt connect to the starter motor as this threaded hole on top of the autobox seemed perfect for an additional earth cable.

I have not done this on my14 SD4 yet but did add one to the 07 TD4 when i first got it back in 2017, so may add one to the Auto box