Newbie here.

2010 (1st reg 2012) FL2 2.2 diesel TD4 GS, 115,000 miles, never goes off-road ("chelsea tractor")

DIY amateur with basic tools (inc socket set, torque wrench) even more basic knowledge (I've done oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, brake pads on it before) , so bare with!....


I quite fancy tackling some of the 10 year service items myself, armed with Haynes and youtube vids I could do with some reassurance / tips / cautions from wiser heads:

1) Replace auxilliary (Serpentine) belt:
It sounds like just a question of releasing tensioner (ocket spanner ACW on nut), take off old (note routing carefully 1st) , put on new.

2) Change coolant:
Is the radiator drain tap on driver side (RH drive)?
What size allen key do I need for the egine block drain plug?
Do I need to flush before replacing ? If so, how ?
There are many "extended life, OAT" type antifreeze preps which match the required standard (Ford WSS-M97B44-D). Is there any evedence of a best buy or ones to avoid?

3) Change final drive oil
This looks the simplest thing. I can get a syringe and tubing. What am I missing?


I have searched already for the above on freel2 , but not really found the clues / tips I need. If I've missed the info on here, please point me to the right place.



Things I think are beyond me:

A) Timing belt renewal.

B) Manual gear box oil renewal. Access awkward, need a big ring spanner for the drain plug, which I don't have. Is it 24mm ? I might be tempted if that's all it needs!

C) Transfer Case oil level check. I don't even know what / where this is. It sounds like a lot of dismantling to get at it.

D) Does the Haldex thingy need anything servicing at 10 yrs? I get the feeling I should stay well away from it. Do I even need to ask a garage to do anything / check anything with it (not mentioned in Haynes).

So, unless you lot tell me I'm being a woose, I'll try and get some local quotes for these things (A-D).
I am very cynical about garages charging lots of dosh for things they know I can't check afterwards. I've been burned several times. Anyone got any recommendations for local Indpendents I could trust with the above (BN7 postcode, sussex)? As it's a 10 year thing, perhaps I should fork out for a main dealer service???

Thanks for any help.

G

watching with interest as just got a 2011 XS. So far paid for what the garage called a major service which was oil, oil filter and air filter, check fluid levels, break, coolant, power steering 🙁 plus numerous check this or that. However is in warranty period so useful to have it checked over before that expires.

looking at £400 to £500 for Timing belt change.

I am in Kent so we are nearly neighbours 😊

Power steering reservoir (and it's built-in filter) and fluid change.

The Haldex “thingy” really needs much more regular servicing than every 10 years and if untouched for that length of time probably needs to come off and cleaned out properly.

Changing the serpentine belt is part of the cam belt change (it comes off to get at the cam belt) so I’d leave it to the the trusted independent you’ll need to find.

The Power Transfer Unit is between the gearbox and the propshaft. The left hand drive shaft and the propshaft both exit from it.

Main dealer service! You really want to pay £160 an hour!

Do not go to main dealer they charge a lot for doing very little the little that they do is easily do-able yourself, it is worth buying the ring spanner for the drain plug on the gearbox you will also need a socket to remove the filler plug (do this before you drain just in case it will not undo)

There are a lot of useful videos on youtube by BEAVIS PITTS on many aspects of servicing the FL2 worth watching these. there are some by other authors regarding the Haldex if its a bit above you I would get an Independant to do it as it is common to Audi, Volvo and other makes it would at least need the filter, fluid changed and certainly need the pump screen cleaned. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Well done to attempt all that work.
If you decide to service the Haldex yourself I would recommend a service kit from Bell Engineering.
Top experts in Haldex and well known to many members on here. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

Thanks to all so far.
What a great resource: within a few hours of posting, 5 constructive responses.

It sounds like I'm not the only one with a slightly suspicious view of main dealers for routine service items.

I shall ring round and get some quotes for the timing belt and aux drive belt (I was sort of looking forward to doing the drive belt myself!).

BalticblueLR2:
Nothing in Haynes about how to remove power steering resevoir/filter. I've seen there is a Beavis Pits vid on the subject and a thread here (https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38352.html?highlight=steering+fluid+filter) so will give it a go.

BossBob:
I wasn't expecting to have the Haldex serviced too. I'm guessing at least a couple of hours labour charge just for that? Plus another couple of hours for the timing belt and aux belt? FL2ukkent advised £400-500 just for that. I need to take out another mortgage or something!
Thanks for explaining the transfer unit. Haynes calls it transfer case and now I've found a short para on how to check the level. Sounds like it's a case of "top it up til it overlfows then take an exact amount out again". Just an ordinary socket spanner do the job?

No-one so far has offered sage thoughts on coolant change / flush.
It sounds like the engine block drain plug can be a b*%^h to get out. It as never been moved as far as I know. I don't think I have the right size hex key for it anyway, so...
...can I just drain from radiator tap (assuming I can get that to shift!), fil up with water, run it for a few mins with heater controls on max to flush through, repeat a few tmes, then refill with 50:50?? I can make a reasonable calculation of how much water is left in system from how much drains each time I open the radiator tap, and deduct that from the 8.5Litre full capacity. Will I need to run it up to operating temp each time I flush with water to open the thermostat to make sure radiator gets flush water flowing to it? I it safe to run it up to operating temp a few times just with water in it? Any thoughts???

Also, to get at radiator tap from underneath, do I need to dismantle anything apart from the sump guard/shield? The vids I've seen are good "close-up" but a novice like me needs the "big picture" too. I don't want to take grill / bumper components off if I can avoid it.

Thanks again to all.

AS for coolant get the water pump done at the same time as cambelt then give the garage the coolant you want to use  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

PTU can be emptied and refilled as can the differential and gearbox.
The Haldex has 2 filters, a plastic encased paper cartridge that can be swapped and a mesh on the pump which clogs and needs cleaning. The pump has to come out to clean that. A service kit with the correct fluid and filter can be got from Bell Engineering who can also service the Haldex, differential and PTU.
Before you remove any drain plug make sure that you can remove the filler plug!

I did the big 10 year service myself when I bought my FL2 a few years ago.. Cam belt + tensioner, aux belt, fuel filter, engine oil and filter, air filter, pollen filter, coolant, manual gearbox oil, transfer box oil, Haldex oil and filter, and diff oil.

The parts alone came to around £350 from memory.

Do what you can yourself, and buy the tools to do the job. If you plan on keeping your car for any length of time, you will need them.

If you buy

A 27 mm flexi head ratchet spanner ( for oil filter )
An oil extractor ( diff oil, fuel filter, transfer box ect )
An oil pump ( as above )

in addition to the tools you already have, you should be able to do everything except the cam belt.

The cam belt is not difficult if you take your time. I bought a timing tool set when I did mine.

It's easy to see why this service can easily cost North of £1000 if you do not tackle some \ all of the jobs yourself. Even if you do it all yourself, with the parts and additional tools, it will still cost North of £450.

I was lucky. I did my homework and negotiated the price of the service from the purchase price of my car, as it had just passed 10 years and 150k miles when I bought it, and the big service had not been done.

Good luck, whichever route you choose.👍

For Hadex, this service kit has the Febi oil (true to required Haldex oil spec) and all other required quality service items PLUS syringe & pipe to do the job easily at a great price (£34 ex-vat as opposed to £65 ex-vat @ Bell)

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/servi...rvice-kit/

There site is full of great accurate information, I just serviced my Haldex with the above after reading up and a few varied Youtube vid watches.

This is great background information and worth a watch to understand how it works - but is way more than you need to know to service it:

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/land-rover...solutions/

Good luck & let us know how you get on please  Current: FL2 64 plate Black SD4 Auto Metropolis
Gone: FL2 2006 Tambora Flame Orange 2.2 TD4 manual HSE - (90K KM - 268K KM, LHD in CH)

I used the Febi oil too. Way cheaper. The landrover stuff comes in mastic gun type cartridges from memory. Why ?

Thanks again to all.

A plan is being formulated! Basically involves me starting with what appears to be the easiest jobs and carrying on until I start to feel out of my depth, then pass on to an independent (I've had a local enthhusiast recommended by several people) whatever i left

Whilst researching what's required, came across this quote :
"The only service requirement for the rear diff (which shares its oil with the Haldex) is to renew the oil every 150,000 miles or 10 years"

from here:

https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/article...-coupling/

This seems to suggest the oil in the haldex is te same as that sloshing around in the rear final transmission box. Any comments?

thanks

NO its not the two oils are seperate and cannot mix. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

The Haldex contains wet clutch plates. Use the correct fluid, not a differential oil. As for 10 year/150000 mile servicing interval. That is just asking for trouble. Other manufacturers who use Haldex units recommend much more frequent intervals.