I keep mine on a Cetek battery maintainer so is always up to full capacity as I rarely use the FL2 so its keeps the battery in good condition and even the Eco stop/start always works (though I switch it off anyway) 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Nodge68 wrote:

I don't think a 75Ah battery is sufficient for these vehicles. They require far to much energy, which a small battery doesn't deliver for very long.
My original battery was always showing 12.2 to 12.5 V depending on the time of year, which is basically flat or worn out, so I changed it for something I knew would be more suitable.
I went with a Yuasa HSB110, which is rated at 85Ah, and 800 CCA. Yes it was over £100, but I'd rather spend that than be stuck with a battery of questionable capacity.

Ive got a Varta F19 in my SD4 - fits fine.
85Ah, 800 CCA Jules

interestingly the wiring to the battery is different - with some extra wires on my 2014 model





The box with green stuff is rodent bait - leave it there all year round Jules

Last edited by jules on 2nd Jun 2023 11:09 am. Edited 1 time in total

double post Jules

I fitted a Yuasa AGM YBX9115 which also fits perfectly - 80Ah, 800CCA. I needed an AGM as mine is a manual with stop/start - I believe the Varta equivalent is the F21 with the same 80Ah, 800 CCA spec, interesting that the AGM batteries seem to carry 5Ah less than non AGM - I wonder why this is? 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

jules wrote:

interestingly the wiring to the battery is different - with some extra wires on my 2014 model





The box with green stuff is rodent bait - leave it there all year round

PRadd wrote:

I fitted a Yuasa AGM YBX9115 which also fits perfectly - 80Ah, 800CCA. I needed an AGM as mine is a manual with stop/start - I believe the Varta equivalent is the F21 with the same 80Ah, 800 CCA spec, interesting that the AGM batteries seem to carry 5Ah less than non AGM - I wonder why this is?

"The additional wiring is for the battery monitoring system, which my earlier non stop-start doesn't have."

My SD4 doesnt have stop/start either, so I guess they just included battery monitoring in all the late models whether required or not. Jules

Battery monitoring was fitted regardless of stop-start being fitted or not on the later models. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

 Jules

Nodge68 wrote:

PRadd wrote:

I fitted a Yuasa AGM YBX9115 which also fits perfectly - 80Ah, 800CCA. I needed an AGM as mine is a manual with stop/start - I believe the Varta equivalent is the F21 with the same 80Ah, 800 CCA spec, interesting that the AGM batteries seem to carry 5Ah less than non AGM - I wonder why this is?

The lower capacity is due to the lower plate count in the cells. Basically the Absorbative Glss Mat (the AGM part) takes up space between the plates, so AGM batteries often have 1 less plate, hence the drop in Ah rating.
It's pretty irrelevant as the AGM won't loose capacity so quickly, which means it will continue to make its Ah rating for longer than the standard battery.

That makes sense, Thanks Nodge.. the collective knowledge here is great  2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Nodge68 wrote:

I don't think a 75Ah battery is sufficient for these vehicles. They require far to much energy, which a small battery doesn't deliver for very long.
My original battery was always showing 12.2 to 12.5 V depending on the time of year, which is basically flat or worn out, so I changed it for something I knew would be more suitable.
I went with a Yuasa HSB110, which is rated at 85Ah, and 800 CCA. Yes it was over £100, but I'd rather spend that than be stuck with a battery of questionable capacity.

The alternator output is under ECM control, so will maintain the battery at a charge voltage of about 14.5 Volts, regardless of what is switched on. If the vehicle has a HFS and PTC heater, the alternator will be rated at 180 Amps, which is much more than you could ever pull by plugging stuff in to the vehicle, or even what you can turn on from the vehicle controls. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

When I had battery problems, ie. 11.9 volts, I bought a 110E battery, 80amp hour and 800 ca. Its a 2008 car, but needed the extra earth lead to the starter bolt. The later cars only charge to 85% capacity according to the manual, so a bigger capacity battery and alternator is obviously a good idea. I put a 200 amp alternator in off a later car, as it fits. As rightly said, they use a lot of juice to start because of the glow plugs always being on. One glow plug out cause winter worries. You can, by cutting the front wall out of the battery tray, get a Transit Diesel battery in by taking out the Airbox and queazing it all in. A No. 72 battery is only any good on a petrol engine. If the car will not start, and the dianostics says no communication to the ecu, its the Starter Motor Solenoid stuck, as the computer does not finish the starting check, and throws a wobbly. I had that with a brand new starter motor. It seizes the engine, too.