I am trying to remove and service my haldex but I can't get it off of the diff. All 4 bolts have been removed but it won't budge.

I have tried progressively larger pry bars an hammer, I have even tried hammering a ball joint splitter into the gap but it is solid.

Am I doing something wrong here or is this the case as usual of the online guids being completely misleading about how hard the parts are to separate....

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

First you need to unhook the rear silencer and lower it onto blocks, giving space to remove the front aluminium support cross member. Once cross member is free, the diff assembly has to drop a few inches, or the body stops the Haldex from coming out. Once it's lowered, support the diff in the lower position. Remove the 4 bolts between the Haldex and diff, and prise the two components apart gently in the gap between the ECM mounting and diff. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Thanks Nodge, The guide I have been following don't mention any of that being necessary??

https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/article...-coupling/

Also, body clearance is not my issue... yet.

is the ECU mounting strong enough to cope with this? I have been using the pump mounting as my prying point.

Just a thought is the handbrake on? could be gripping the drive line stopping it from being withdrawn?? just a thought? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

@ransoman No disrespect intended but are you trying to separate the haldex from the rear diff at the correct point. IIRC its not that obvious.
Obviously if you have done this job before then please ignore me.

Ive taken mine off twice, it came apart with firm taps of a rubber mallet. Jules

I just dropped the rear diff support by removing the two bolts. The haldex splits from the rear diff in front of the support.




Here, haldex oil is seen runing out after the initial split



You can see that a large part of the haldex fits inside the rear diff so, when viewed externally, the haldex appears small in comparison. Jules

jules wrote:

@ransoman No disrespect intended but are you trying to separate the haldex from the rear diff at the correct point. IIRC its not that obvious.
Obviously if you have done this job before then please ignore me.

Ive taken mine off twice, it came apart with firm taps of a rubber mallet.

ransoman wrote:

Thanks Nodge, The guide I have been following don't mention any of that being necessary??

https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/article...-coupling/

Also, body clearance is not my issue... yet.

is the ECU mounting strong enough to cope with this? I have been using the pump mounting as my prying point.

If you lever it where I've arrowed, it's strong enough.

 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

ransoman wrote:

jules wrote:

@ransoman No disrespect intended but are you trying to separate the haldex from the rear diff at the correct point. IIRC its not that obvious.
Obviously if you have done this job before then please ignore me.

Ive taken mine off twice, it came apart with firm taps of a rubber mallet.

No disrespect taken, and there is no such thing as a stupid question.

I believe I am. this is my first Haldex job but I have been following a few guides and I am trying to remove it as the guides show. It still feels firmly clamped but I have removed the 4 bolts the guides mentions. My images were to show the bolts removed incase someone spots I have removed the wrong one.

For what it's worth, I have done a ton of work to this car including the clutch, flywheel, all the front suspension etc and this car has fought me every step of the way. Everything that is documented as "it just pulls apart" has required a ridiculous amount of effort, from a 15 ton hydraulic puller to get the Driveshafts out of the wheel bearings to phyisically needing to split the gearbox and literally cut the PTU sleeve off. The propshaft bearing support bolts seized and broke the captive welds while remving them too. I swear someone parked this car in a tank of salt for for a year or something. I am a very competant mechanic but this car is a hatable thing to work on. I am giving up and once this is back together the car is being traded in.