I have to agree with jules, 97°C for the fans to kick in sounds about right to me too.
If I get the chance I’ll see what mine does but to be perfectly honest, the only time I hear them come on (other than with A/C), is when climbing long steel hills. As I have alex’s modified IPAC firmware, the gauge is up at about 7/8ths by then. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

ribama1 wrote:

But nothing comes on until the engine coolant temp reaches 97C.

Hi Alex I get the same result whether I test with the ac on or off.
But my ac is not working at the moment so when the ac is on the compressor clutch does not engage.
Car is going into the shop to have ac fixed on wednesday. So I will test again and let you know then. Before the ac broke, the fan was on when the ac was on.

Hey gasman
A couple of questions - where did you test the trigger wire?
What ECM did you get?
Want to sell yours?

I believe my ECM has failed, as applying power to the ECM contacts turns the upper fan on at full speed. It shouldn't turn in unless a signal enters the system via the trigger wire.

Cheers

gasman wrote:

Before replacing the fan module, check the purple wire that runs between it and the ECU under the scuttle panel. This is the signal wire that commands the fan operation. Very common for this to fail inside the insulation.
I know from past experience. I have a spare fan module somewhere in the garage that wasn't required.

Hi Ozjeff.
If you want to diagnose the trigger/signal wire the correct way, you would need an oscilloscope. I don't have anything that fancy. I unplugged the relevant connector at the ECM under the scuttle panel and checked for continuity from the relevant pin to the plug at the fan module. Mine was open circuit so I just ran a new wire of similar size and colour and soldered it in as close as possible to the plugs after cutting the old one off.
As for the fan module, I just purchased it off eBay, cheap enough. I have no idea where that one is though.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hm. Brain ticking over.
So you’re saying the violet trigger wire comes from the ECM under the scuttle.
Does anyone have a photo of it? I have no idea what it looks like.
The silver box at the back of the fan - I thought that’s what we’re talking about. Seemed fair to me that controller shouldn’t work without a 5v PWM signal via the trigger wire. I have no idea what that means either, but if the fan is on without the trigger wire attached the fan controller isn’t doing it’s job.
Cheers guys. I deplore the number of sensors and coding for simple jobs!! MY11 SD4 SE Auto

The fan controller is on the cooling pack.
It's pretty common for cooling fans to run at full speed in the event of a missing PWM signal from the engine ECM. It's a sort of passive safety system, to prevent overheating should the ECM fail to provide the PWM, or a broken wire prevents the PWM signal getting to the fan controller. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.

That's a good thought. I meant where is the ECU - behind that plastic behind the engine? Looks like a pain to access. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

So I found the ECU. Oh my Lord. So many violet cables. No way I could sort out which to test so I went back to the fan power connector.

3.1v. sounds ok, I know there is supposed to be 5v.

Turn engine off - still 3.1v. What?

But while I was testing I heard a click - just like a relay - and volts goes to 0. That's better.

So - can I assume the trigger cable is ok, and it's the Fan Control Module?

Any help appreciated. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Not an expert on these things but my experience with voltage indicates that 3.1v out of 5v is likely too low. Regardless, thread bump!

Fitted a new fan control module today. A shorter 2 point Philips would've been welcome but the swiss army knife worked well.

Ten minutes of work, the radiator is now off when the car is off. No more leaning over or asking the passenger to flip the bonnet release. No more huge sound from the front. No sticking my hand in a blazing hot engine bay to unplug the connector.

So hopefully that is the right call.

A cheap one too. $50. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Just a follow up on your Fan Cooler Module. Is the cheap EBay one still working? If so can you send a link for others to purchase please. I need to replace mine

Thank you

Yep, still working.
It's a pretty generic part

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224265158076

The listing title doesn't even mention Land Rover.

HTH MY11 SD4 SE Auto

That’s good to hear . I just ordered one off eBay 👍 thanks

ozjeff62 wrote:

That's a good thought. I meant where is the ECU - behind that plastic behind the engine? Looks like a pain to access.

The difficult bit is getting the wipers off. Mark the position on the windscreen before removing them.

Click image to enlarge

(was full of red outback dust)

It's a cleaver design this area to trap dust & dirt before it gets to the cabin air filter. Worth getting in there & cleaning out, also pull off the plastic strip on the windscreen & clean that out. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18