I'm getting set to replace the rear pads as a temp measure prior to maybe upgrading the whole braking system or swapping the car. I was wondering if anyone of you more experienced people know which way to wind in the rear calipers, left or right or one side each way? I have a rewind kit here, dont want to turn the wrong way and damage the piston. thanks

When I did mine I just took a bit of fluid out of the reservoir and just pushed the pistons back into the caliper with a G clamp just keep a eye on the fluid rising in the reservoir. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

as said the 2007 is just a push back on the piston.

Richard FL2 07 TD4 GS Auto
Ex 02 TD4 Auto

The pads just push back. When pushing, slacken off the bleed nipple so the dirty fluid doesn't get pushed back up the pipes and also it makes it easy to shift the piston. Obviously put a bit of hose on the nipple to collect fluid and not let air in.

On FL2s with the electric parking brakes (which uses the pads and doesn't have separate shoes for the handbrake) you must activate "service mode" before pushing back the pistons to protect the electric motors.

AFAIK the pistons which need rotating whilst pushing back are brakes which use a mechanical lever system to incorporate the handbrake into the rear disk brake - common on VAG cars. The pistons have a groove in their face to facilitate the simultaneous rotation.

I have a rewind tool which can convert to simple push. Jules

I use a G clamp to push the calliper back

Thanks, I used a g clamp and all done for the minute. Realised the wind back tools are more for those where the pads do both brakes and handbrakes. Mine of course has shoes for the handbrake. Only a very temp emergency job as I never thought to new pad retaining clips, the old ones were some what miss shapen due to heavy rust on the calliper where they seat in. Also spotted a nice 10mm wide groove forming on the inner disc face. That will have been the noise I could hear. Interesting as well the in board pads were down to metal at the bottom and just under 2mm at the top, so it looks like the pads were seized in the clips and not free to move, basically a rusted worn out mess. Plan is to replace discs, pad retaining clips, calliper carrier and most likely the calliper itself, seem cheap enough at advanced factors for the callipers. Brake fluid looks rank. Was thinking to renew, how do you bleed the abs unit with no diagnostic kit?

To renew the fluid open a rear nipple and just pump brake pedal until most of the fluid in the reservoir is gone but do not pump it all out or you will get air in the ABS, top up the reservoir with fresh fluid and repeat the process with all the other nipples finish with the front offside one last, just DO NOT let the reservoir get too low keep topping it up untill all the old fluid is flushed out. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

what Rommel said.

You cannot bleed air out of the ABS without the electronic kit (which will operate the interval valves). So it is vital no air gets into the ABS unit. But can can flush fluid through it to the brakes ( not all of the ABS will be flushed though) Jules