Hi All.
I am trying to pre lubricate the heater plugs with WD40 and leaving it for a day to seep in, before I run the engine to get warm then spray them again, hopefully they will come out no trouble, BUT I can find the bloody things, they are not like my Mitsi Pajero, so, I have removed the engine cover and hoovered all the dead foam that has come off the inside of the engine cover, I have found a lead with a Green sort of tab on it thats near the Injectors, and I have found a Black plastic clip also that is next to the lead with the green tabs on it. so are the injectors vertical next to the Injectors . and what clip do I have to remove. Thanks in advance.

Have you downloaded the free manual all the info is in there. The glow plugs are situated under the Inlet manifold.

Here is a movie showing them with the manifold gubbins removed

Hi Chips.
Thank you so much, I didnt know there was a free manual. I will certainly have a look for it to download. and thank ou for the link to the video, much appreciated.
Tankie.

It's much less risky to remove the inlet manifold, but that comes with its own challenges.
Having done the plugs both with and without removing the manifold, I'd now remove it every time. It's far to easy to break a plug coming out, or cross thread the replacements going back in.

If removing the manifold, just make sure you cover the boost hose to prevent anything falling down inside unseen, only for it to be ingested by the engine when starting back up. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.

Thank you Nodge.
I will take the intake manifold off when I do them, I usually put a piece of white roll over any open hose and secure it with an elastic band. thanks again mate, much appreciated.
Chiefy

Here is the link to thread about the service manual with download.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html

Without doubt the most useful 3229 page reference pdf Ive ever owned. Jules

My glow plugs came out very easily. No penetrating fluid required. Just make sure you have the right tools ( long reach 6 side socket, can't remember the size though ).

Mine came out easy, don't remember reading about anyone on here having problems either. A long reach 8MM socket is required, and make sure it's long reach internally not just a long body with a short internal length which is what I got first time.  
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

The socket size depends on the plugs being

11v which are an 8mm socket

or 5v which are a 10mm socket

I can only approve what other guys said - also my glowplugs came out very easily. The thing I struggled with was bolts on inlet manifold. I even snapped one, but ended up leaving it in a engine block, since the bolt was right behind fuel filter housing, and by bolting the housing, manifold was very well in place and didn't have any leaks.

Also, If you have an older freelander, I would recommend buying a secondhand evoque of 2011+ freelander inlet manifold, to get rid of swirl flaps.

My plugs are OK at the moment and no starting probs but the day will come to replace the plugs. what I am curious to know is what do you need to remove BEFORE you can get at the manifold bolts? having looked at this the fuel filter definateley but what about the throttle body? and anything else?  2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

There are some good instructions here on forum as well as some youtube videos with perfect instructions. I replaced the glowplugs around 1 year ago, took around 4 hours from start to finish, but once I had finished, I remember thinking that I would most probably be able to repeat that in 2.

From my head, I remember removing engine cover, air filtrer box and pipes, throttle body, part of EGR system (i think), fuel filter and its bracket, fuel system wiring and injector heads (don’t know the term in english), then the inlet manifold. Im sure I missed something. Everything was quite straight forward, but I remember fuel filter housing being a PITA (hard to get bolts) and I struggled quite some time with manifold bolts as they were quite stuck.

Apart from changing the inlet manifold which I mentioned previously, replacing the fuel filter and checking up on throttle body would also be a good idea when doing this.

Its worth giving the inlet manifold a good inspection if its the early type with swirl flaps fitted.

It took me longer than 4 hours iirc. I was cautious with the fuel lines, making sure that they were plugged after removal of the filter and was delicate with the electrical connectors. Not too difficult to do with a good set of tools, patience and the great guides and information found on this site