Thanks Ben FL2 for the write up.

Had a soaking wet passenger carpet and found the front left drain detached.

Thank you to all who have posted on this subject, 'Sunroof drain hole location', and, the resulting leaks connected with it.
I have a 2013 SD4, this winter, 2021/22, when the frosts arrived, each morning we were greeted with mist and sometimes ice on the inside of windscreen and under sunroof glass. On checking I found water under carpet insulation in the driver's footwell, got to be 'Aircon' drain tube. This was to be clear and connections all good.
When I checked under insulation below driver's seat I found a pool of water. Next thing to check, I thought, was the sunroof drain connection above 'B Pillar'. Thanks again to all who posted on it's location and how to get to it, what a silly location and difficult access. Pipe connected and held in place by a sturdy plastic clip, well done Land Rover on that.
When I poured water into the sunroof drainage channel, to check if drain hose was blocked, a small amount appeared under rear wheel arch, not as much as I had poured in. Blew down drain hose, felt clear, no resistance.
So, I lifted the edge of driver's side rear passenger carpet, see attached photo, more water and a very wet insulation block underneath. Next job, the big job, to remove boot area side trim and C Pillar cover in one piece. When I felt up behind the thin insulation sheet, over rear wheel arch at seat cushion height it was soaking. This luggage area side trim comes out easier than expected if you first remove the tailgate bumper trim and the two load securing 'D' clips, starting from the bottom near tailgate. Mind you it is harder to replace but slow and steady is the answer chaps. I also removed single rear passenger seat to make access easier.
When the side trim is removed the 'Culprit' can be seen, see attached photo, of resulting pool of water let alone amount in insulation. I found the drain hose rubber exit fitting in the wheel arch opening but not water tight. I have refitted using a sealant. But, what a silly design Land Rover, the location of this is just above one of the side trim fixing clips, this is now sealed as well.
Now the carpets and insulation need drying out, would be easier in the Summer Months but pleased I found this before it started to smell.
Do hope this helps someone as, I have to say, thanks to the posters on here I was able to locate drain hose in the first place.

Billsy wrote:

Thanks Ben FL2 for the write up.

Had a soaking wet passenger carpet and found the front left drain detached.

Quote:

Jonsey wrote:

Thank you to all who have posted on this subject, 'Sunroof drain hole location', and, the resulting leaks connected with it.
I have a 2013 SD4, this winter, 2021/22, when the frosts arrived, each morning we were greeted with mist and sometimes ice on the inside of windscreen and under sunroof glass. On checking I found water under carpet insulation in the driver's footwell, got to be 'Aircon' drain tube. This was to be clear and connections all good.
When I checked under insulation below driver's seat I found a pool of water. Next thing to check, I thought, was the sunroof drain connection above 'B Pillar'. Thanks again to all who posted on it's location and how to get to it, what a silly location and difficult access. Pipe connected and held in place by a sturdy plastic clip, well done Land Rover on that.
When I poured water into the sunroof drainage channel, to check if drain hose was blocked, a small amount appeared under rear wheel arch, not as much as I had poured in. Blew down drain hose, felt clear, no resistance.
So, I lifted the edge of driver's side rear passenger carpet, see attached photo, more water and a very wet insulation block underneath. Next job, the big job, to remove boot area side trim and C Pillar cover in one piece. When I felt up behind the thin insulation sheet, over rear wheel arch at seat cushion height it was soaking. This luggage area side trim comes out easier than expected if you first remove the tailgate bumper trim and the two load securing 'D' clips, starting from the bottom near tailgate. Mind you it is harder to replace but slow and steady is the answer chaps. I also removed single rear passenger seat to make access easier.
When the side trim is removed the 'Culprit' can be seen, see attached photo, of resulting pool of water let alone amount in insulation. I found the drain hose rubber exit fitting in the wheel arch opening but not water tight. I have refitted using a sealant. But, what a silly design Land Rover, the location of this is just above one of the side trim fixing clips, this is now sealed as well.
Now the carpets and insulation need drying out, would be easier in the Summer Months but pleased I found this before it started to smell.
Do hope this helps someone as, I have to say, thanks to the posters on here I was able to locate drain hose in the first place.

Panel clips:

Door liners: LR013135

Boot liners & tail gate liner: LR006101 (you will break a lot of these clips)

Sill clips can be used on upper column panels which don't have the rubber, which will reduce sound transmission, anything to help at ear level: LR003015 (Also a lot of these will get broken)
Dashboard trims: FYC500040 (I lost two & recovered one, I know roughly where the other one is)
Boot hook clip brackets: LR004797


The boot liner, the clip is sort of the middle, obviously the most difficult one to reach, is a bit of a pest to position precisely & clip in. If it is not clipped in, you will get squeaking when driving. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Hi Artic,
How can I help, I have one more pic showing ECU behind, righthand side, boot area lining. The biggest problem was removing the rear carpet as this is one big piece with the foam insulation below.
Have to say, all the clips etc. on linings came away without breaking. If I remember correctly, I failed to get to the drain holes from above and had to lower interior roof liner to check they were connected and clear.
Pleased to say, since sealing the drain hose rubber outlets, seen in pic, on the rear wheel arch, it appears to have solved the problem. No interior misting since, guess with the recent cold spell this would have been back.

Quote:

Hi Artic,
How can I help, I have one more pic showing ECU behind, righthand side, boot area lining. The biggest problem was removing the rear carpet as this is one big piece with the foam insulation below.
Have to say, all the clips etc. on linings came away without breaking. If I remember correctly, I failed to get to the drain holes from above and had to lower interior roof liner to check they were connected and clear.
Pleased to say, since sealing the drain hose rubber outlets, seen in pic, on the rear wheel arch, it appears to have solved the problem. No interior misting since, guess with the recent cold spell this would have been back

Hi Artic,
Yes, I agree it seems and is a lot of work to check and if neccesary rectify a leak on drain exit points, one each side. Another example of someone sitting at a drawing board, designing this layout and having no concern for the person having to maintain it. You cannot even check the outlet point under the rear wheel arch, as it is a double skin. I guess this is a good idea, in one way, as it prevents the outlet being clogged with mud/grit etc.
As I mentioned, my problem began when we had interior misting during cold weather, no signs during summer conditions. At first I thought it was the aircon drain tube, which will also give, I am told, a similar problem when detached or blocked, but found this was ok.
If you are only checking the drain outlet connections there will be no need to remove all the carpets and insulation. I had to do this to empty floor pan, of the fish pond, and dry it all out. At least it proved the pan was water tight. On this occasion I was relieved to dicover, unlike our XC90, there are no ECU's or amplifiers under the driver's seat. They would have been lost.
Must say, a bonus point being, although mostly plastic fittings, all came away and refitted without any breaking, must be a first.
If you do not have the signs of an interior leak, misting, check if draining ok by pouring a small amount of water into sunroof channel on a dry day, with vehicle on a flat surface, the water will drain in front of the rear wheels. No drain outlets at front of vehicle. I do hope I am not telling my grandmother how to suck eggs.
Good luck.

Hello all.
I’ve just come across this thread and found it very useful in fixing a water leak in the passenger side rear seat area.
I noticed a couple of weeks ago that the seat cushion and the carpet underneath were very wet. I’d soaked up most of the water, and then left the seat base tilted forwards to allow the carpet to dry. All seemed fine until I washed the car today and found the same problem again. I pulled the front of the rear side panel trim away from the body (with the seat back tilted) and found the drain tube where it goes through the body. (It’s just about level with the door striker.) I found the drain tube for the sunroof, had pulled out of the grommet where it goes through the body, leaving the tube free to empty all the water from the sunroof into the rear of the car.
What I found was that the drain tube is fastened securely to the body using plastic clips. When I tried pushing the drain tube back into the grommet, it wasn’t long enough to go fully inside. I think the problem people are experiencing is not so much the tube coming off the grommet, it’s more that the tube is shrinking over time. As it shrinks, it pulls out of the grommet (or the fitting in the roof at the other end of the tube.)
I simply cut the drain tube in two a little further up, and lengthened it with a piece of fuel pipe. The outside diameter of the drain tube is 10mm, I used a section of fuel pipe with an internal diameter of 8mm for a nice tight fit. I added 2 cable ties on the ends of the fuel pipe, and one on the grommet for good measure.
Seems a little far fetched I know, but with the drain tube securely clipped to the body, it can’t really move, and when I tried pushing it into the grommet, it would only go in by about 2-3mm.
I don’t have pictures to demonstrate because it was dark, but I’ll try and re-post Arctic’s photo turned by 90 degrees to show how it actually sits in the car. His photo is of the right hand side of the car. The drain tube and grommet are situated in front of the rear wheel arch and behind the door opening.
Hope my description is clear.