Hi,

My 2013 FL2 has really bad rust over the jacking points on the front of the floorpan. These are so bad that they have started to collapse if used to raise the car.

Is it possible to buy repair or replacement panels for this? the closest I can find is a complete bodyshell!!

Note, this is not my photo and is linked from https://www.freel2.com/forum/post331263.html and is shown as an example of the part i need.



Thanks!

Doubt if panels are available but a skilled welder could fabricate and make good, 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Last edited by Rommel on 23rd Dec 2022 8:47 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Surprised nobody has nicked....

...the pallet!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

How much rust is elsewhere around the car?

How cost effective is it to keep pouring money into a rust bucket!


Coast Auto Detailing has a good reputation to get cars road worthy.

Click image to enlarge

Lightwater (For some reason I can quote every other post other than yours).

The rest of the car is sound. Some surface rust on the sill on the floorpan side but I have been monitoring it since I bought it and I know it is not serious. Wheel arches are sound too. It is only a late 2013 model after all. Honestly there is just a disproportionate amount of rust on the jacking point only.

My previous cars were 25 (I owned the car 18 years) & second one also 18 years. The second car no rust issues but the first car did have a number of issues over the years which I fixed & we don't put salt on our roads. I had new pieces welded in under the windscreen & new sill strips welded on.

These days I feel car structure is more complex so probably not worth it.

I have done first year in oxy-acetylene & arc-welding, seperate courses, probably still not worth the effort involved cutting rust out & replacing sections. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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ransoman wrote:

Lightwater (For some reason I can quote every other post other than yours).

Rimmers sell new sill panels but there not cheap £846.01 for one side

ransoman wrote:

Hi,

My 2013 FL2 has really bad rust over the jacking points on the front of the floorpan. These are so bad that they have started to collapse if used to raise the car.

Jules, I spent a long time investigating when I bought the car and give it an annual corrosion inspection too so I know where the rust is and how bad it is and I treat anything at the flaking stage. It was all surface rust 12 months ago. The jacking points were always worse though, even when I first bought it at 5 years old the sills were spotless but the jacking points would deform if you used them.

What sort of jack are you using?
There's a small but noticeable deformation on my jacking points if I use my trolley jack under them.

However I normally use the chassis rails or center of the subframes as those are more suitable places to lift the body, as a trolley jack tends to pull sideways while lifting, which isn't what the side jacking points are designed to take.
Really the side jacking points are for lifting with a 2 post lift (rack lift for our US friend), and for emergency tyre change duties with the factory jack. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.