Forum-Gallery-Shop-Sponsors

« Advertise on Freel2.com

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Terrain response not available message
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
Joncorry



Member Since: 27 Nov 2021
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Orkney Grey
Terrain response not available message

Dear all, I’m looking for a bit of help with a haldex issue. I’ve looked through my search results and can find issues but they tend to point to the mechanical side of things.

I bought my 09 FL2 GS from an auction and on the drive one was quite pleased with it but noticed a diff whine… A common issue as read on many places so I booked it in for a rebuild at my local transmission specialist. They did the job and cured the whine but I now had the message “terrain response not available on my dash”. Took it back to them and explain that I’d not had the message before and they farmed it out to a local garage who cleared the code.
I have a Gap IID tool but I’ve not added the FL2 on to it yet but I can still read and clear codes so that’s a start. I got the following code in both the RDCM and the BCM:

U0138-00(2f) Lost communication with all terrain control module.

First thing was to check the fuse in the boot fuse box. This is fine. Checked the voltage and there’s power to the fuse.
Next job, check the plugs on the haldex. Now, the plugs were attached but the clips are not present so assume being brittle, we’re broken when removing them for the diff rebuild. Pushed them home and secured with a cable tie but the message and code remain.
I’ve checked power using a multimeter at the plug and there’s power but I haven’t checked the canbus for a voltage/signal at this plug (I’m not sure how to).

Is there a way to get to the wiring without dropping the rear subframe so I can check for damage? From what I can see, there seems to be some damage to the cable shroud so I’m guessing there may be more.

Managed to get a pic of the damage I can see.

also is there a way of checking the haldex ECU for signs of life?

All helpful pointers welcomed.

Post #420674 26th Apr 2022 2:53 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1769

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Makes me wonder if the "specialist" perhaps didn't unplug the Haldex, before attempting to remove the diff, which would likely result in cable damage.
To check the CAN, you can measure the resistance of the 2 CAN wires, which should be about 120 ohms. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. My daily driver.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Post #420684 26th Apr 2022 5:33 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Joncorry



Member Since: 27 Nov 2021
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Orkney Grey

Thanks Nodge, a very reasonable assumption guessing they also snapped a stud clean out of the hub probably with excessive use of the dugga dugga gun… they had to own up to that.

Post #420685 26th Apr 2022 5:42 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1769

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

So not a "specialist" then, unless they're specialist bodge artists.
Sounds like they've fubared something. Let's hope they've not screwed up the Haldex. Big Cry 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. My daily driver.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Post #420688 26th Apr 2022 6:35 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2747

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

Talk to Bell Engineering, perhaps. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 74k+ miles) (MY2015)

Post #420689 26th Apr 2022 6:48 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Joncorry



Member Since: 27 Nov 2021
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Orkney Grey

Nodge68 wrote:
So not a "specialist" then, unless they're specialist bodge artists.
Sounds like they've fubared something. Let's hope they've not screwed up the Haldex. Big Cry


They were meant to be a transmission specialist, the diff doesn’t whine so at least that’s something. If I can measure canbus resistance and its 120 ohms as suggested, I’m guessing its the haldex ecu thats kaput.

Post #420694 26th Apr 2022 8:44 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Joncorry



Member Since: 27 Nov 2021
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Orkney Grey

IanMetro wrote:
Talk to Bell Engineering, perhaps.

I’ve contacted Bell previously but understandably they are super busy.

Post #420695 26th Apr 2022 8:49 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1769

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Joncorry wrote:
Nodge68 wrote:
So not a "specialist" then, unless they're specialist bodge artists.
Sounds like they've fubared something. Let's hope they've not screwed up the Haldex. Big Cry


They were meant to be a transmission specialist, the diff doesn’t whine so at least that’s something. If I can measure canbus resistance and its 120 ohms as suggested, I’m guessing its the haldex ecu thats kaput.

Not necessarily, but if you're getting a CAN resistance, then a diagnostic will or should pinpoint the issue. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. My daily driver.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Post #420727 27th Apr 2022 4:44 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Joncorry



Member Since: 27 Nov 2021
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Orkney Grey

Well I’ve resolved the issue. The haldex/rear differential control unit was sent away to a helpful chap in Crewe who checked it and verified that all was well and suggested another look at the wiring…. I looked and looked and got the same result. As a last resort, I googled all terrain control unit as this was the item the car was not communicating with. Turns out, its a posh name for the terrain response knob.
I prised up the control panel to find the green plug was not connected, plugged it back in an bingo - it works.

Lessons learned, check the terminology and check all the components, maybe start with the easy/obvious first.

And with that, it’s going up for sale as I’ve got too many land rovers having acquired a nice Defender 110.

Post #421368 18th May 2022 4:01 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1769

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

The terrain response module is the computer that is in the plastic housing under the TR control knob. Thumbs Up 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. My daily driver.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Post #421374 18th May 2022 6:27 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
Freel2.com RSS Feed - All Forums


Switch to Mobile site