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impact



Member Since: 11 Mar 2011
Location: Perth
Posts: 131

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Fuji White
crankshaft position sensors keeps failing

I need assistance with my crankshaft position sensor issue please - currently on my 3rd sensor. First sensor died at about 9 years of age, second lasted just over a year. Both are definitely very dead as car will not start with them in. The car will only start with the 3rd (current) sensor installed.

With the first 2 sensors, there would be loss of power while driving but the codes (P0335 and P0336) would only register when sensors were completely dead. With the 3rd sensor, codes (P0335 and P0336) registered after first loss of power, which happened today. I cleared the codes and the car drives as though nothing happened. The 3rd sensor is 5 months and ~1200 miles old.

Wiggling sensor wires with the engine running did not produce misfire. Wires and harness appear to be in good shape and clean. All sensors were genuine.

Any ideas what could be killing the sensors? MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Post #402259 6th Jan 2021 12:22 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 584

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Are you using genuine sensors? 2009 Rimini Red SE, it's getting there.

Post #402272 6th Jan 2021 4:28 pm
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impact



Member Since: 11 Mar 2011
Location: Perth
Posts: 131

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Fuji White

Yes, all genuine. MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Post #402273 6th Jan 2021 4:48 pm
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Andy131



Member Since: 10 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2018

United Kingdom 

If it’s a three wire device it should have live, negative (earth), and signal. So a faulty earth might cause the signal to go high ie a 12v device might give a 5v signal normally but lose negative and the signal might go to 12v - this should kill the ECU.
A fault on the signal to earth or 12v should kill the sensor - overload or backfeed.
A fault on the supply - let’s say it gets only 5v from the ECU and it momentarily gets 12v will kill the sensor and possibly the ECU if it’s from an external source. Similar scenarios for a two wire device.
So options are physically check the wiring by stripping protective sleeve all the way from sensor to ECU/ supply. Have ECU checked. Buy sensor from another supplier in case of bad batch. Time consuming and therefore expensive if you are not handy with tools and multimeter.
Sorry Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Post #402274 6th Jan 2021 5:06 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 761

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

I had trouble with a brand new sensor. Bought another one from an LR specialist, they told me they only fit genuine LR ones because of problems using others. Been running fine for must be a 18 months or so.

Post #402279 6th Jan 2021 8:01 pm
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impact



Member Since: 11 Mar 2011
Location: Perth
Posts: 131

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Fuji White

Andy131 wrote:
If it’s a three wire device it should have live, negative (earth), and signal. So a faulty earth might cause the signal to go high ie a 12v device might give a 5v signal normally but lose negative and the signal might go to 12v - this should kill the ECU.
A fault on the signal to earth or 12v should kill the sensor - overload or backfeed.
A fault on the supply - let’s say it gets only 5v from the ECU and it momentarily gets 12v will kill the sensor and possibly the ECU if it’s from an external source. Similar scenarios for a two wire device.
So options are physically check the wiring by stripping protective sleeve all the way from sensor to ECU/ supply. Have ECU checked. Buy sensor from another supplier in case of bad batch. Time consuming and therefore expensive if you are not handy with tools and multimeter.
Sorry


Thanks very much for the detailed explanation Andy. I’m ok on the tools but intermittent faults can be a real nuisance.

With first 2 sensors there would be a brief loss of power while driving and nothing else. The error codes would only appear when sensors where completely dead and the car would not start. This could possibly mean that a code is only triggered when there’s an open circuit.

With the current (3rd) sensor, there was a brief loss of power while driving and 2 DTC appeared (p0335 and p0336). So the dynamic is slightly different I thought, and could indicate that the circuit was briefly interrupted. With that in mind, this morning I removed factory earth cable, cleaned it all out (even removed paint at the seat) and bolted it back on (covered any exposed metal in clear). I also installed additional earth strap (400A) from the negative terminal to the bell housing, just in case.

Any idea whether ECU gets its earth from the body or the engine block? MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Post #402294 7th Jan 2021 7:58 am
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Andy131



Member Since: 10 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2018

United Kingdom 

wiring diagram is attached


Click image to enlarge


crankshaft sensor is the third device on the right, earth is shown bottom right.
This is page 27 of the wiring diagrams available on this site Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Post #402299 7th Jan 2021 10:58 am
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impact



Member Since: 11 Mar 2011
Location: Perth
Posts: 131

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Fuji White

Couldn't work out where the ground wire attaches on the vehicle to inspect the connection so I just checked for voltage drop across all earth points I could see (inspired by Scotty Kilmer), and body of the ECU. No voltage drop at all - which is very good I believe. Didn't do the test prior to cleaning factory earth contact as wasn't aware of the method at the time. Hopefully this does the trick.

 MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Post #402317 7th Jan 2021 2:39 pm
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impact



Member Since: 11 Mar 2011
Location: Perth
Posts: 131

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Fuji White

All sorted. The problem was with the crankshaft sensor connector / plug. If anyone is having the same problem and would like to get it fixed, read my comments here (link below) or send me a message to discuss further:

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37181.html MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Post #410906 1st Aug 2021 3:08 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 584

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

My crank sensor failed 80 miles into a 180 mile journey. There were 2 codes generated (I didn't note them), but were crank sensor related. Luckily I had the old sensor (the one on the engine was only 2 years and 4,000 miles old), so I fitted the replacement sensor, and continued my journey, and back without any more failures, although I do still have the occasional dropout of one cylinder, particularly if I use significant throttle.

I'll get another genuine sensor, and check the plug and wiring to the sensor. 2009 Rimini Red SE, it's getting there.

Post #421222 14th May 2022 8:53 am
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Cherokee



Member Since: 12 Jun 2018
Location: Portishead
Posts: 59

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Zermatt Silver

I had drop outs & into limp mode with no EML lights, whilst under acceleration.
Read the codes & came up with P1203 - short circuit cylinder no.3

Had no.3 piezo injector replaced - drop outs cured.

Not a particularly cheap fix at approx £440 Inc VAT (replacement injector cost £ 235)

If it happens again on a different cylinder I'll be tempted to have a bash at changing one myself.

Hope this helps.


Cheers
Brian Cool

Post #421230 14th May 2022 10:37 am
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