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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Dave,

Here are the VVL (Variable Valve Lift) Solenoids

Click image to enlarge


They are the same part and you could swap them but you will have to lift the engine and remove the plate for the motor mount to get to one of the mounting bolts.


The solenoid activates the variable valve lifter

Click image to enlarge





As for the PCV

Take a picture of this location upon removal it should be clean (if it is full of oil your PCV has failed)

The clean-ish slot on the lower right is after the Valve and it always see the vacuum level of the intake manifold. Everywhere else is before the valve and the Vacuum should be very low.



More information about changing the PCV

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32107.html

Good luck

Paul

Post #417101 14th Jan 2022 11:44 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

dhallworth wrote:


Once the coolant temperature had reached around 45 degrees Celsius you could drop the revs to idle (around 800rpm) and it would sit there as smooth as silk and the misfire counter on the IID tool wasn't registering any misses at all.

Whatever is causing it only seems to cause it when it is cold.


Dave,

I looked thru the work shop manual and it mentions that the Variable Valve lift is disabled below about 40C (Oil Temperature which should be warmer than coolant temperature)

If your Thermostat is broken (which it likely is if you haven't changed it in the past 7 years) then the engine will warm up slower.

But I do think that the Variable valve lift is sticking on cylinder #6. It is possible that one of the valves is sticking and the other isn't and that is the cause of the misfire.

The Engine Flush that you did may help with this.

How often do you change the engine oil?

What type of oil do you use?

Can you park your FREEL2 in a garage so that it is warmer when you start it?

How long does it take to get to 40C coolant temperature?

Assuming 5 minutes 800 RPM --> 4,000 revolutions / divide by 2 because it fires every other stroke --> 2,000 combustion events for cylinder #6

What percentage are misfires? 20/2000 or 200/2000 or 2000/2000

Edit: 2 minutes not 5 minutes

800 x 2 = 1600 / 2 = 800 combustion events for cylinder #6

What percentage 8/800 or 80/800 or 800/800


Good luck

Paul

PS if it were me I would hold the revs at 1500 until it gets to 40C and replace the Thermostat


Last edited by p_gill on 15th Jan 2022 10:29 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #417135 15th Jan 2022 9:13 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Dave,

it is cold where I am at but not freezing but here is what I found for my 3.2

Time for the Engine Coolant Temperature to go from 12C to 40C

2 Minutes and 35 Seconds

If you are not even close to this time then change your Thermostat before doing anything else is my advise.


Having said that it is your car and you can do what ever you like


Take care

Paul

Post #417137 15th Jan 2022 9:52 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Dave,

I also own a Volvo S80 3.2 with essentially the same engine (ok its 225 HP instead of 235 HP and it doesn't have the variable valve lift)

What it does have is a Land Rover Thermostat, because it was cheaper than the Volvo Thermostat.

Note: the Volvo was in the shade so it started at a cooler temperature (less than 50 ft separated the engines and both hadn't run in more than 16 hours)

11C to 40C

2 Minutes and 56 Seconds

Both of my 3.2 have "New-ish" Land Rover Thermostats

In my book that is very consistent.


I like this test it should tell me if my Thermostat is broken.

Thanks for getting me to think about this

Paul

Post #417139 15th Jan 2022 10:19 pm
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MotionInc



Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: North America
Posts: 1291

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Good info in this thread; I changed my thermostat about 1.5 years ago but now I am going to time how long it takes to get to 40c. Thumbs Up

Post #417142 15th Jan 2022 11:19 pm
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dhallworth



Member Since: 15 Aug 2014
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Izmir Blue

Thanks Paul, the information you’ve posted is superb.

I’ll have a look at it again this week. Did you just allow yours to idle to get up to 40 degrees rather then giving it any revs? I’m a bit cautious of doing that test on ours just now as at idle that’s when the misfire is at its worst.

I’m hoping the PCV will be here early this week so we can get a look at it. Swapping the VVL shouldn’t be too bad to do either so I might try that and see if the misfire moves to another cylinder.

David. 1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Oxford Blue with Ash Grey Leather
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Rioja Red with Lightstone Leather
2006 Range Rover Supercharged in Zermatt Silver with Jet Leather
2007 Freelander i6 HSE in Izmir Blue with Ebony Leather
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Post #417159 16th Jan 2022 9:57 pm
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dhallworth



Member Since: 15 Aug 2014
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Izmir Blue

I was just looking through the images you posted, Paul. I’ve noticed something that has caught my eye…

Click image to enlarge


I read this bit I’ve circled in red and something started to twig about the terminology… “Bank 2”… it’s a strange thing to refer to on a straight 6 engine.

I then looked at this image…

Click image to enlarge


This image says that the valve controls the flow of oil into and out of the tappet. This is interesting as the specialist that looked at the car suggested that he believed it could be a sticking valve. This would manifest itself in exactly the same manner I think.

If the valve named bank 2 is sticking and not closing properly, it could explain why it stops at 40 ish degrees as the valve named bank 1 opens and comes into the same position as the valve on bank 2.

When I say something twigged about the terminology, I remembered something I’d seen with my IID tool…



Ignore the misfire on Cylinder 4 in the above screenshot, I forgot to reconnect the coil after I’d disconnected it.

I thought the above fault code (P003F-00) was a spurious code as this is a straight 6 engine… it looks like I shouldn’t have dismissed it!

It appears that the solenoid is available under part number LR011224. I’m unsure if I’m going to order one or swap it from side to side. I guess it’d be sensible to swap them to see if the fault moves rather then ordering one and throwing parts at it on the off chance it fixes it.

David. 1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Oxford Blue with Ash Grey Leather
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Rioja Red with Lightstone Leather
2006 Range Rover Supercharged in Zermatt Silver with Jet Leather
2007 Freelander i6 HSE in Izmir Blue with Ebony Leather
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Post #417162 16th Jan 2022 10:28 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Dave,

The bank 1 and bank 2 is because most engines with 6 or 8 or 10 or 12 cylinders are V or flat.

I personally love the inline 6 but most 6 cylinder cars are V6.

For our purposes Bank 1 is 1, 2, 3. Bank 2 is 4, 5, 6

Just to make things confused the variable valve lift is 1, 2, 4 and 3, 5, 6


Because the code says Bank 2 I would assume that’s 3, 5, 6

The part number you identified varies the intake camshaft so it affects bank 1 and bank 2. (Variable Valve Timing)

The Part number for the variable valve lift is

lr025967


Since you have a code I would replace this part


Switching back to the warm up time

I can measure again just let me know what RPM you use and for how long to get to 40C

If the engine is between 10C and 15C that would be the easiest for me but just let me know what you can do and I will try to duplicate your test

I did my test at idle but higher RPM is fine

Good luck

Paul

Post #417166 17th Jan 2022 1:03 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

dhallworth wrote:
Did you just allow yours to idle to get up to 40 degrees rather then giving it any revs? I’m a bit cautious of doing that test on ours just now as at idle that’s when the misfire is at its worst.


Dave,

I did the 40C test again today but this time I pressed the accelerator pedal to maintain 1200 RPM


13C —> 40C (@1200 RPMs). 1 minute and 52 seconds (2010 S80 3.2)

So no real difference (Edit: actually it is about 40 seconds faster)



My Friend in Texas (LR2 Mike) is also replacing his VVL Solenoid and he can’t find

LR025967 (Out of stock in the US)

So I texted him

Volvo 31216281 is the exact same part in a Volvo box


Here is a Volvo link with more information

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/p003f-%...id.614523/


Take care

Paul

Post #417207 17th Jan 2022 9:11 pm
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dhallworth



Member Since: 15 Aug 2014
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Izmir Blue

Thanks Paul,

I’ve ordered the VVL solenoid today. Land Rover dealer did it for around 60 quid so they’re going to stick it and the PCV in the same box and post it to me when they arrive.

I’m hopeful to see them both before the weekend so we’ll hopefully get some time to tinker with it.

David. 1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Oxford Blue with Ash Grey Leather
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Rioja Red with Lightstone Leather
2006 Range Rover Supercharged in Zermatt Silver with Jet Leather
2007 Freelander i6 HSE in Izmir Blue with Ebony Leather
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Post #417213 17th Jan 2022 9:27 pm
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dhallworth



Member Since: 15 Aug 2014
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Izmir Blue

A delivery arrived from Duckworths Land Rover today…



It was 2 degrees at 5pm today so was bitterly cold and my tools were freezing so I only fitted the VVL solenoid. It took 30 seconds to fit which was superb!

I then started the car and it was holding it’s 1300rpm cold start as normal, then when it started to drop off choke and down to idle speed I was nervous… However, I’m pleased to announce that it was idling at 800rpm on all 6 cylinders perfectly. Very Happy It’s back to being as smooth as silk again!

The new solenoid when giving it a shake you can hear the insides of it moving up and down, the new one was seized solid. I tried poking it with a screw driver but it wasn’t for moving at all. Strange as the car is always serviced annually which is around 6-7k miles on the engine oil.

It was cold and I didn’t have the tightening sequence or torque figures handy to do the PCV valve so that’s tomorrow’s job. Does anyone know the torque value and tightening sequence?

Massive thanks to Paul for the help getting her back to fighting fit. It’s fantastic to hear it purring beautifully on all 6 cylinders again.

David. 1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Oxford Blue with Ash Grey Leather
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Rioja Red with Lightstone Leather
2006 Range Rover Supercharged in Zermatt Silver with Jet Leather
2007 Freelander i6 HSE in Izmir Blue with Ebony Leather
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Post #417388 20th Jan 2022 8:37 pm
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MotionInc



Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: North America
Posts: 1291

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Excellent news! Thumbs Up

Post #417391 20th Jan 2022 9:15 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Dave,

You have been upgraded

From..............OWNER

To........CUSTODIAN

I think of myself as a custodian and just to be clear I am never selling my LR2, perhaps someone could buy it from my Great-grandchild long after they have started talking about me in the past tense.

Don't worry about the PCV for now just wait until its above 20C

Here is the link "FOR THAT DAY"

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32107.html


And when you get a chance replace the Thermostat and Small hose, bleed hose and intake gaskets as well

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html



Now that you've seen that the LR2 is easily fixed by a motivated owner you can never un-see these undeniable facts.

Welcome to the Club..........the next round is on you

Excellent work Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

Take care

Paul

Post #417398 21st Jan 2022 1:42 am
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dhallworth



Member Since: 15 Aug 2014
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Izmir Blue

Thanks Paul,

In the 7.5 years we've had the Freelander this has been the first time it's given us any problems. It's really been a superb car and the i6 engine has been superb.

Makes a change really... we've done an engine swap in our P38, starter motor change on our TDV8 L322, and our Supercharged L322 has been a project for over 12 months now Laughing It's had a gearbox, transfer box, prop-shaft, supercharger rebuilt, and now is getting a new rear diff Rolling Eyes

It's been nice to have the FL2 as it's just worked for 7.5 years!

David. 1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Oxford Blue with Ash Grey Leather
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE in Rioja Red with Lightstone Leather
2006 Range Rover Supercharged in Zermatt Silver with Jet Leather
2007 Freelander i6 HSE in Izmir Blue with Ebony Leather
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Post #417411 21st Jan 2022 1:45 pm
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merlinj79



Member Since: 14 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 313

United States 2008 LR2 i6 S Auto Tambora Flame

dhallworth wrote:


The new solenoid when giving it a shake you can hear the insides of it moving up and down, the new one was seized solid. I tried poking it with a screw driver but it wasn’t for moving at all. Strange as the car is always serviced annually which is around 6-7k miles on the engine oil.


By chance do you run synthetic oil?

Post #417451 22nd Jan 2022 4:10 pm
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