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Walenut

Member Since: 17 Jun 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 114

2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Lago Grey

I have a feeling you could see the end of the brass rod holding the flaps at that point but I can’t quite remember. On the Plus side of checking, you can check & replace any duff glow plugs. One of mine had gone at 55k.

19th Aug 2021 8:12 am

NeilTD4

Member Since: 21 May 2018
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 136

2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Lago Grey

Badger51 wrote:
Have you checked the glow plug relay? (I’m guessing yours has one)!

I was amazed how clean my throttle body was, all shiny without any carbon/oil buildup at all.

I did fit an egr blanking plate about six years ago, so maybe that has helped.

Have since investigated further and found that the new glow plugs I'd fitted were 5 volt and not 11. Now hanging head in shame.

There is a relay fitted, I was thinking of the controller thing fitted to later models. I had the electrician at work check the circuit and all good.

30th Aug 2021 11:15 am

Aussie Battler

Member Since: 17 Apr 2013
Location: Apsley
Posts: 93

2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

Re: Swirl flapless intake

daemonlr2 wrote:
Hi guys,

I have read that from MY2007 to MY2010 our intake manifold has swirl flaps made of plastic.In my opinion they are pointless and dangerous,if they brake or get stuck you are f k. So I want to change my intake with an MY2010- MY2013 one For 150 pounds you get a little more performance from your engine because there is nothing to interfere with the air going to the cylinders maybe 1 or 2 hp just like a sticker and you know that your pistons will never have melted plastic on them.
Will I need a ecu reflash for the new intake to tell the ecu the swirl flap actuator is bye bye?

What to you think about this mod?

I removed the swirl flaps on my09 by removing the square drive rod it was very loose in the plastic bushings incorporated in the inlet manifold and you could hear it vibrating at certain revs and load . it is a bit tricky to remove it as it just pulls out but the oil and carbon build up make it very tight . As far as a ecu reset I just refitted the actuator and plugged it in ,this also blocked off the hole at the end . You will need to remove the manifold to do this and it will need a good clean ,I soaked mine in diesel for 24 hrs then hit it with a pressure cleaner . Definitely makes a difference ,the dead spot down low disappears and acceleration is quicker but looses a little at the top end 09 freelander
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11th Sep 2021 2:39 pm

D1GG3R

Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

Could you not just fit the later manifold without the flaps?

14th Sep 2021 2:05 pm

Aussie Battler

Member Since: 17 Apr 2013
Location: Apsley
Posts: 93

Probably but I never thought of it 09 freelander
99 discovery
20 discovery
98 commodore ute
71 series 2a lwb tray
69 corvette stingray
64 series 2a swb
confiscated wallet
1927 dodge tourer
2009 ss commodore
1926 dodge truck

14th Sep 2021 11:26 pm

petero

Member Since: 27 Jul 2017
Location: Tamworth, Staffs
Posts: 49

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Sumatra Black

D1GG3R wrote:
Could you not just fit the later manifold without the flaps?

That's what I did, the replacement manifold came from a scrapped Peugeot - same part numbers moulded into it as the Land Rover manifolds. I replaced faulty glow plugs and fuel filter at the same time.

15th Sep 2021 8:11 pm

Aussie Battler

Member Since: 17 Apr 2013
Location: Apsley
Posts: 93

very few peugeots here in Aus you could drive around for 6 months and not see one so virtually non in the wreckers 09 freelander
99 discovery
20 discovery
98 commodore ute
71 series 2a lwb tray
69 corvette stingray
64 series 2a swb
confiscated wallet
1927 dodge tourer
2009 ss commodore
1926 dodge truck

15th Sep 2021 11:25 pm

D1GG3R

Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

petero wrote:
D1GG3R wrote:
Could you not just fit the later manifold without the flaps?

That's what I did, the replacement manifold came from a scrapped Peugeot - same part numbers moulded into it as the Land Rover manifolds. I replaced faulty glow plugs and fuel filter at the same time.

I've been looking a Pug one in ebay but wasn't sure? It would seem that the same manifold is in a few different cars?

17th Sep 2021 5:05 pm

D1GG3R

Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

I bought it 👍

17th Sep 2021 8:08 pm

petero

Member Since: 27 Jul 2017
Location: Tamworth, Staffs
Posts: 49

[quote]I've been looking a Pug one in ebay but wasn't sure? It would seem that the same manifold is in a few different cars?[quote]

Yes, possibly Ford Mondeos and others as well. Apparently mine was off a Peugeot 607 2.2 hdi. It was around 4 years ago now and I think I just searched eBay for the number stamped on it for the "no flaps" version but I can't remember what that is (both numbers are stamped on the manifold with the incorrect one crossed out iirc). A search on here ought to get the number for you.

Best of luck with it,

Peter

17th Sep 2021 8:20 pm

petero

Member Since: 27 Jul 2017
Location: Tamworth, Staffs
Posts: 49

D1GG3R wrote:
I bought it 👍

Excellent!

17th Sep 2021 8:21 pm

ribama1

Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: brisbane
Posts: 73

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Badger51 wrote:
ribama1, was the lever already missing or have you removed it?

Hey Badger sorry missed you're question. No I didn't disconnect it. It may have broken. When the car was running rough at startup I took it to a land rover specialist. He pointed out that something was not right there, but he didn't know what the rough start issue was. As I say, the issue corrected itself so I didn't think about it again until now...3 years later.

I am now armed with a bore scope and I'm going to pull the intake manifold for a looksee and flap removal. I want to do a carbon clean and with the scope I can check the valves are closed and I've cleaned it up right. New fuel filter and ERG blanking plate also now here for install.

I reckon the rough starting was swirl flap pieces sucked into the cylinder head. When I'm finished the intake manifold job, I will pull the injectors and the bore scope may show slight damage to the cylinders, but the engine runs well except for a tick which I think comes from the lifters or the injectors.

I'll post the pics. Starting the job now.

1st Oct 2021 3:04 am

ribama1

Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: brisbane
Posts: 73

Ok so I did this job today and documented the process for a video that I'll eventually edit and post.

As expected, my FL2 had swallowed the swirl flap for cylinder 1 but the other 3 flaps were in very good shape and I'm sure would have lasted another 200,000km. So why did the flap for cylinder 1 break? It's obvious when you take it apart. The brass rod that the flaps are mounted on, pass through and support the flaps, only for cylinder 2, 3 and 4. For cylinder 1 (which is the last flap at the end of the rod) the designer decided that the flap could support itself. For this cylinder, the brass rod is only used to rotate the flap.
But without the integrity of the brass rod this flap does not have the strength of the other three.

The picture below shows the rod external to the manifold but its easy to see that when inserted it is only long enough to reach the flap for cylinder 1 but not pass through it.

2nd Oct 2021 12:06 pm

Kirekapsa

Member Since: 15 Jul 2021
Location: Bitola
Posts: 3

Do tou posted video somewhere ,i am planing to remove flaps also,thank you

26th Oct 2021 4:36 pm

AndyP

Member Since: 09 May 2007
Location: Reading
Posts: 97

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Sumatra Black

ribama1 wrote:
Ok so I did this job today and documented the process for a video that I'll eventually edit and post.

As expected, my FL2 had swallowed the swirl flap for cylinder 1 but the other 3 flaps were in very good shape and I'm sure would have lasted another 200,000km. So why did the flap for cylinder 1 break? It's obvious when you take it apart. The brass rod that the flaps are mounted on, pass through and support the flaps, only for cylinder 2, 3 and 4. For cylinder 1 (which is the last flap at the end of the rod) the designer decided that the flap could support itself. For this cylinder, the brass rod is only used to rotate the flap.
But without the integrity of the brass rod this flap does not have the strength of the other three.

The picture below shows the rod external to the manifold but its easy to see that when inserted it is only long enough to reach the flap for cylinder 1 but not pass through it.

Never considered this when I discovered my cyl 1 flap had been ingested , the engine did lose power /misfire for a few minutes and had a rough idle that went within a 100 miles or so. Now it makes sense that the engine took time to digest the plastic. Still the good news was that it was the catalyst to replace the manifold with the later flapless version and the exhaust camshaft .

26th Oct 2021 4:45 pm

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