I have replaced all my struts last year and now i replaced the two front lower control arms.
After disconnecting all the usual stuff like the steering rod and stabiliser link.
Loosing the driveshaft bolt I removed the lower arm by using a 4 foot steel bar to lower the control arm after loosing the ball joint.

So far no problems.
But when fitting the two control arms I did the same with the crow bar trick to force the balljoint low enough so it would go in the hole in the lower end of the strut/hub thing

However i noticed oil dripping from the rear hinge/bush type rubber from the new control arm. So i complained at the garage i got the part from (I ordered Britpart but he gave me Moog which according to him is the samen factory)

They supplied me with a new Moog control arm. I installed it today and got the same oil dripping from the rear hinge bush/hinge (sorry I am Dutch and don't know the correct name).

Is this me doing it wrong or is it the low quality aftermarket part? The right side never had a leak and the left side now has had two.

Jaap
The Netherlands FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

I've done that job, but can't work out where any oil would be coming from. Can you upload a photo for us? I don't recall any fluid lubricants in that area.

I've used Moog components before with no problems. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

This the place where the new one leaks. They are filled with oil. Don’t know why. FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

Filled with oil? It may be some lubricant, that's a solid bushing, the arm is able to slide in and out of it. Fit it up, it'll be fine.

Cheers. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

The larger bush is actually a hydra bush. It contains oil and some valves.

I managed to replace the new leaking control arm by first inserting the front vertical bush. Then the ball joint. So only stress on the front bush. After that I used a jack under the rear hydra bush to get it aligned. Works perfect.

The Land Rover manual states you need a special large c-clamp to compress the strut…. FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

I have just swapped an engine in a 2008 FL2. Splitting the bottom swivel ball joint was a pain as they had not been apart for years. One side came out with a struggle, and I have the correct splitter. The off-side would not move, so I removed the whole hub off of the strutt, and I will have to cut the ball joint off with a nine inch disc cutter. I will fit a complete lower arm, as the original looks like it has been straightened in the past!. Getting the bottom balljoint apart is easier if one takes the whole hub off with the lower arm. I have a six foot fence post digging tool as a lever, but it needs two people really. Unbolt the half shaft and carefully tap it inwards to help. I have a small machine shop to do the repair work, and a ten ton press. The rear bush on the arm has a hydraulic damper in it, but many cheap replacements do not.