I’m part way through an overhaul of the front end (2007 s model), bushes had gone on lower arms and shocks were past their best so decided to go full on rebuild. Almost everything seems to be original with 2006/2007 date codes. I have stripped the front struts, subframe, brakes, hubs, and having had issues with clutch slipping in 5th / 6th, decided to swap clutch out too. Having removed gearbox, clutch is an luk one. Pressure plate had an 07 date, but can’t tell whether the dmf and friction plate are newer. Slave has a 46/06 code. With 110k, it’s done ok. Is an luk clutch original from the factory, and is there a way of telling the date of the dmf. Friction disc still has the grooves in, though they are very shallow. I’m thinking the pressure plate may be the fault. I also have a minor oil leak from the top rear corner of the engine, which runs onto the top of the gearbox. It’s higher than the head gasket, but can’t see where exactly, do the oil separators leak as I think that may be in the vicinity.

LUK is an LR OE supplier, and the dates match up, so yes it's likely the original clutch.

If the clutch is slipping under load, then either the concentric isn't allowing the clutch plate to fully release, or the springs in the pressure plate have slackened, which isn't common on a modern clutch. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.

I think considering the effort you have gone to already it would be wise to fit a full clutch kit and dmf if you have the slightest concern about it now. Would be a shame to have to strip it down again. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Thanks for the info chaps, I’ve ordered a new dmf and clutch kit, concentric slave and the valve piece that brings the concentric slave to outside the gearbox. It didn’t have any issues with dmf rattle, or getting into gear, but would slip in 5th and 6th around 1800 - 2100 rpm. As you say, it’s not worth not doing it when stripped down so far. I must be mad, have done mechanical stuff before but not on one of these, happy to take my time and build it up in stages.

More clutch headaches today. New kit arrived from advanced factors, all good from them. I have compared the new and old parts and they all have the same numbers on, and the friction plate is almost the same thickness wise which makes me think now that the clutch isn’t original and maybe not that old either. We had no rattling from the dual mass, no issues getting into gear, just slipping in 5th / 6th on the motorway. Obviously for that to happen there must be an issue, but I’m now thinking it can only be a weak pressure plate. This was quite laden with black dust so I’m wondering if that was causing it too be an issue. Any thoughts welcome as this is all new to me, just would have spent the cash on some goodies rather than a boring old clutch.

A weak pressure plate is certainly a possibility and might not be visible to inspection.

It could get weak by frequent cycles, ie lots of stop-n-go type driving and gear changing, or by clutch slipping causing it to be heated excessively... my cars are prone to the later because my lady's clutch technique leaves something to be desired.

If heat was an issue, you might also observe hot spots on the flywheel as that would get hot too.

Also look closely at the release mechanism parts. I'm not familiar with this motor, but you need to make everything that moves and slides is not worn and lubricated properly when it all goes back together. Especially the input shaft splines... I might be OK with visible discoloration only, but if there's wear that you can feel with your fingers that's probably too much.

Well it’s spent the last two years doing short journeys and towing a lyes yard twin axle caravan. Interestingly,it’s most recent trip out with caravan in tow, presented no issues, slipping or anything else, but running single handed it would slip ion the motorway. It didn’t even seem to slip reversing the caravan up unto the drive, although it did have a clutchy type of smell. I’ll go with your theory of a weakened pressure plate, as it means I then haven’t wasted a shed load of cash.

Clutch will work harder when towing of course.

If you smell it, it means it got hot. You can mess up a flywheel and pressure plate by badly slipping the clutch just one time, on some vehicles at least. Ask me how I know.