2007 Freelander 2 TD4 manual.

All the windows have ceased to function from the drivers door master switch. The mirrors aren't moving either. The disable all windows wide switch LED isn't illuminating and it looks like that particular switch has dropped down a bit so its not flush with the door trim anymore. It looks like someone has pushed it too hard. I've checked the fuses and they're all fine. The other 3 windows operate correctly from their own controls in each door.

is it fairly safe to assume i need to replace the switch panel with all the controls on it? i think its LR part number LR003584. Having had a look on YouTube it seems like a door card off job and then just 4 screws hold the switch unit under the plastic trim

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR003584

This should be the part i need.....

Last edited by Mudpup on 14th Feb 2021 3:53 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Before you buy another, I would suggest that you investigate further as it may be just be a plug disconnected, or the switch forced apart.

I have not had my FL2 window switch apart, but on a previous Vauxhall I had a similar problem with a 'over depressed' switch, and found that the push button had forced the Printed Circuit Board down away from the tops of the switches.
Quite often these buttons work by changes in the proximity to the PCB. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 14th Feb 2021 4:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Cheers Ian, i was thinking that as well but then thought that if i was taking all the door panel apart it would make sense to have a replacement switch panel to hand to pop in if required. It's a daily driver so i cant leave it in bits really.

Having looked at the wiring diagram the only common fuse I can see is FS17.

This link below seems to b about a similar problem.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post307321.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I have the same issue no power to the drivers door window conrol unit did you solve this mudpup?
The fuse in the boot for this is FA1 and mine is ok too
It did start working randomly but the drivers window was ok going down but was short jerky movements going up !
But on next power up it wont work at all i was wondering if it is the control module?

Once you have taken the door trim panel off the first time. It's a piece of cake the second time.

Don't forget the screw at the trailing edge of the door & there are 2 screws behind the handle trim cover, the cover, lever from the bottom edge. Short sharp tugs to get it off.

Once all screws are out start at the bottom edge rear corner of the door giving the trim panel a very sharp quick tug a couple of inches out. A couple or butter knives will help to get your fingers under the trim panel. The sharper the tug the better & the less likely you will break the trim panel clips.

Do NOT pull the panel by the door pocket.

Once the clips are free & the trim panel is angled out from the door, give it a short firm shove upwards.

What it looks like inside but with my acoustic insulation.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The comment above referencing the following article is solid gold :

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post307321.html

Had exactly the same problem, window controls on all doors except front passenger were dead, I had checked every fuse I could find for windows with no joy. Pesky F17 in the back for courtesy lights was the culprit, trust Land Rover to make it so obscure!