p_gill wrote:

......................Apologies to my Freel2 friends that live in corrosive environments and are less impressed with the choices made by the dedicated Land Rover team in the UK.

Thank you, swollen nutz are no fun, neither are LR dealer's nutz vices.............

Fair point

I really like my LR2 and every year that goes by I grow to appreciate it more and I am very happy that I made the choice to buy it so long ago. All things considered its been an enjoyable experience. And if I ever get the chance I would like to than the Land Rover team for what they accomplished.

And I wouldn't say the same about the dealer.

AndyP wrote:

When the nuts corrode, the stainless steel? casing expands meaning you can't engage the wrench..

As AndyP says its just worth checking as in the UK it does happen over time,

My 2013 is still fine after 8 years

although I have suffered from Swollen nuts on my D2, D3, and 2xRRS and one of those was within 6 years.

just replace how ever many are infected when the swelling occurs or as also said just carry a bigger socket

We dont tend to suffer from Sun bleaching the interior or dash crack's due to heat in the UK though

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf

Freel2 Readers,

All this talk of Lug Nuts (or wheel fasteners if you prefer) has me thinking what are the specifications for these nuts.

I measured the first feature

Floating washer seat angle 60 degrees

Undetermined features

Bolt size ????

Bolt Pitch ????

Depth of thread ????


With all of these features know then aftermarket wheel fasteners could be easily purchased to replace the origional fasteners that have been compromised by corrosion.

Let me know if you have the missing information

Thanks

Paul

Hi,
believe the thread size is M14 with 1.5 pitch but dont know the depth

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf

River,

I just checked one of my LR2 Lug nuts against a lug bolt from my Volvo S80.

You are correct

M14 x 1.5

It took 15.5 turns to get to the bottom of the nut.

15.5 * 1.5 = 23 mm depth of thread (there is an un-threaded 2 or 3 mm in addition to this)

Note: it only takes 8 turns to seat the nut with the alloys that I have.


Summary

M14 x 1.5

60 Degree Captive washer

25 mm depth (minimum 23 mm threaded)

21 mm drive socket compatible


Picture is of a S80 bolt into a LR2 nut
Note: this is only half way not fully seated



Thanks

Paul

Hi Paul

What I was saying was that a 22mm impact socket ( I.e full sided socket) will undo a 21mm bolt and a 22mm bolt without slippage , albeit some damage to the corners of the nut. A star socket of 22mm will likely round over the corners and slip on a 21mm head.

Andy

Andy,

No worries

I am going to quote myself (see below) this is something that I seldom do

I do realize that there was a lot of back and forth bantering but we did get to the actual specifications for the lug nuts.

With those specs you can buy aftermarket lug nuts, if you’re not happy with the Land Rover originals

Take care

Paul

p_gill wrote:

I misunderstood the original poster.

I didn't realize that he was saying that the Tyre shop, mechanics, etc. just uses a 22 mm instead of the correct 21 mm


Where I live rust isn't really a problem so I expect to use 21 mm for the next 20 years or so.


I pulled off a lug nut to check and it has a captive floating washer, its a quality lug nut. Credit to Land Rover for not building my SUV with low quality parts. Apologies to my Freel2 friends that live in corrosive environments and are less impressed with the choices made by the dedicated Land Rover team in the UK.


Take care

Paul

And one more for swollen nuts here. Just did the boost pipes, tried to get the bumper off, no joy. Took the wheel off (well tried to), same issue. 21 doesnt fit, 22 does. Ive now got a nut with a 21 socket on that I cant get off.

The joys ...