Does anyone know how to test the fan control module, other than letting the car heat up and see what happens.
I have just replaced mine as the scanner said it was faulty. Fitted replacement and scanner states this one also faulty.
Any thoughts. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Last edited by gasman on 5th May 2021 5:22 pm. Edited 1 time in total

For my LR2 with the Volvo Dual fan upgrade my fan runs for the first minute every time I start the engine. (I can't recall if my single fan did this as well)

I own a S80 3.2 and a LR2 3.2 and I confirmed that both vehicles ran the fan at the same time after a cold start and they did so I am happy with my upgrade.


The other option to run the fan is to turn on the AC set it to max cool and the fan should run, I think that this is true even if the outside temperature is rather cold.

Maybe someone else can confirm that

1. Fan runs for about a minute from a cold start (with stock single fan)

2. Turning on the AC to max cool will turn the fan on (even if the outside temperature is very cold)

Thanks

Paul

When AC is ON, the fans will start spinning on low speed ONLY if the pressure in the AC system will rise above a certain pressure.
It may not rise enough on lower outside temperatures and never below 2 deg. C when the AC, even if is ON will not start the compressor.
But basically, yes, if you turn the AC ON, after a little while the fans will start to spin. The lower the ambient temperatures, the longer "the while".

Otherwise put on the thin wire a 5V PWM signal, 50/50 for example.

Thanks for the reply p_gill and apologies for the late reply.

My car is the 2.2 diesel and it has the twin fan assembly. I'll have another look at the operation, probably a bit to impatient before.

Thanks also Alex, your input is always welcome.

I will have another look and leave it a bit longer to see what happens.
I also think the A/C may be down on pressure, The car is coming up to 12 years old and it has never been touched. Would that effect the fan operation? Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Had to google PWM signal.

Sorry Alex, I do not have the equipment to generate that.

I will try your other suggestion. Thanks  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Yes, no gas, no increased temperature due to gas compression, no need for fan(s) running/cooling.

Thanks for the reply Alex.

I'll try and book it in for an A/C test.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Just been out in the car to test a few things. Car nice and warm and temp needle in the middle. Let it stand on the drive to see if I could get the fans to cut in, outside temp 8 deg. After 20 mins temp gauge still in the middle and no fans. Cooling system must be pretty good.
Anyway think I have found the problem. After reading Alex's post about a trigger wire had a closer look at things. On the large plug to the fan module between the red and black wires there is a small wire which I now assume is the trigger wire. This wire appears corroded, if not broken.



Question now is, if the wire is broken, can I just join the two haves together again, solder or crimp. Or is this some sort of special wire.? Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Gasman,

if you want to fix the broken part you will need to get a replacement terminal and crimp it correctly on the wire

I have no idea what the correct terminal is for the fan controller signal wire

The small pin is what you need to make contact with

Click image to enlarge

Search around and see what you can find

This should work as well

https://lt.piguispardavimas.com/content?c=...&id=11

Note: the extra connection will be unused for our application

Good luck

Paul

Hi p_gill

I appreciate you looking for those parts, I think that may well be my last resort. My intension is to first try and clean both sides of the break and solder it together and see if that works.

Just had the A/C re gassed today, that works fine but the fans still don't come one. To be fair I don't ever remember seeing the fans on at any time.

Just as a foot note, when I took the car in for the re gas, told the guy's the car was almost 12 years old and it had never been touched. Reply was something like 'A/C should be re gassed every 2 years, yours will be knackered'
After 45mins came back with a large piece of humble pie in mouth and said, ' we took quite a lot of old gas out of the system, re gassed it and it works OK' Didn't like to say 'I told you so'  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Now I know why they call you GASMAN,

My 2008 LR2 has never been re-gassed

I did check the pressures as a baseline for my S80 (broken compressor wasn't cooling) with nearly the same system and the high pressure Schrader valve developed a very slow leak because of the type of connector that I used. (I did top up the LR2 in my home workshop)

I purchased a better connector for my AC gauges and then I modified the bad high pressure connector so that it was effectively only a cap (I filed down the pin that was pushing on the Schrader valve)

This stopped the leak and when I checked it after a month even with the cap removed the leak was fixed. Before that I could see tiny bubbles of Gas escaping thru the oil (with the bright green dye)

Note: the Factory cap can hold about 10 PSI and my modified cap should hold at least 300 PSI, which is higher than the system gets to.

The restoration of the Schrader valve was likely due to the cap holding the pressure and applying it to the O-rings on the Schrader valve from the opposite side after the engine was stopped.

And if it starts leaking again I have my custom high pressure quick release cap just in case.

Someday I may need to re-gas the system (Maybe when my LR2 turns 30 in another 17 years)

Take care

Paul

Hi Paul

Thanks again for the reply.

Just goes to show, the A/C system in the Freelander must be very good if you have not had yours re-gassed yet. I would think the A/C would be on almost all of the time where you are. Here I need a good heater more than I need A/C.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Just a quick update as still not fixed.
The signal wire appears to be intact, just the insulation damaged.
Don't know if this makes sense to anyone but after taking the car for a long drive decided to test things again. Engine temperature gauge never went above normal and fans never cut in even with a/c on. After returning home checked the fan connections at the module plug with everything running. Power terminals have 12v and the trigger wire 3.3v. Not sure what that should be.
Would it be possible to disconnect the module plug and put a temp power supply direct to the module, i.e. 12v to the main power connectors and a supply to the trigger wire, I assume it should be more than 3.3v .
If not where does the trigger wire come from ? I am finding it difficult to locate any information. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

May be wrong but wondering if the signal wire shows up where a scope probe has been done on it in the past and the wire not tidied up afterwards?