Greetings to the whole community.
I would like to know if it is true that the crankshaft bolt is unscrewed from left to right or, as usually happens, from right to left.
I ask this question, because in the workshop they told me that the crankshaft bolt, when replacing the timing belt, is unscrewed with reverse rotation, that is, from left to right.
Thanks to everyone who will answer me.

It’s just an ordinary thread so right to left as you put it or anti-clockwise to undo as I would say. Bloody tight though! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Righty Tighty
Lefty Loosey



The tool to use on this bolt is a Torque Multiplier. Easy Peesy

I imagined it unscrewed by turning it to the left.
Thank you.

Make sure you fit a new one, as it's a TTY bolt (Torque To Yield), often called a stretch bolt.
So it can only be fitted once, it also has a thread locking (patch) applied. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Thank you. Where can you buy the bolt?

Its part number LR000645
I bought from main dealer but many online sellers have them https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/148...very_sport

Joe Fix it until it's broke !

Most cambelt kits come with a new bolt.

Steve D wrote:

It’s just an ordinary thread so right to left as you put it or anti-clockwise to undo as I would say. Bloody tight though!

Joe wrote:

Its part number LR000645
I bought from main dealer but many online sellers have them https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/148...very_sport

tascusi wrote:

Steve D wrote:

It’s just an ordinary thread so right to left as you put it or anti-clockwise to undo as I would say. Bloody tight though!

Can it be unscrewed with a compressed air gun?

Yes it can. I use a battery impact gun, which takes them off easily.
There's a correct tightening sequence to follow too, which is 70Nm followed by a 60° rotation.

The crank position sensor is located near the bottom pulley, in the top picture of this screenshot.
 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Really frightening experience removing my crank bolt I had a massive long bar on it and was convinced it was going to end in the bolt head snapping off or the ring gear locking tool giving way after a couple of hours sweating finally out . Think it’s all that thread lock gunge that stops it coming out freely . I was recently advised to heat up the bolt head for a few mins with a blow torch this apparently melts the thread lock and they come out easy so will defo try next time ..

Nodge68 wrote:

tascusi wrote:

Steve D wrote:

It’s just an ordinary thread so right to left as you put it or anti-clockwise to undo as I would say. Bloody tight though!

Can it be unscrewed with a compressed air gun?

Yes it can. I use a battery impact gun, which takes them off easily.
There's a correct tightening sequence to follow too, which is 70Nm followed by a 60° rotation.

The crank position sensor is located near the bottom pulley, in the top picture of this screenshot.

[img]https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24421/cranksfat%20sensor%20position~1.pdf[/img]

Nodge68 wrote:

tascusi wrote:

Steve D wrote:

It’s just an ordinary thread so right to left as you put it or anti-clockwise to undo as I would say. Bloody tight though!

Can it be unscrewed with a compressed air gun?

Yes it can. I use a battery impact gun, which takes them off easily.
There's a correct tightening sequence to follow too, which is 70Nm followed by a 60° rotation.

The crank position sensor is located near the bottom pulley, in the top picture of this screenshot.