Good evening, I have just picked up my new 2014 FL2 and have found out that the cruise control doesn’t work nor does the start stop. The cruise control doesn’t do anything when the buttons are pressed, I’ve read the manual and made sure I’m travelling over 28mph etc. When I picked up the car they fitted a new agm battery to it and told the car it had a new battery and the start stop doesn’t work either, not sure if they are related? Any ideas? Thanks

I have a 2009 diesel and the cruise control has never operated below about 45 mph.
As for the stop start that will not operate if the engine is cold, if there are too many utilities in operation drawing on the battery, especially the a/c. therefore it may not be faulty. Give it a run, let it warm up and keep the a/c off.

I am of cause assuming yours works the same way.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Check that you have not got HDC or Terrain Response selected.

Cruise Control works at any speed over 19mph, except when Special Programs are selected.

Note: Cruise control can only be engaged at
speeds in excess of 30 km/h (18 mph)

Note: Cruise control is not available in HDC, or
when a Terrain Response special program has
been selected.

Stop Start is very dependent on the state of battery charge and use of ancillaries, although again operation of the Terrain Response' will inhibit Stop/Start.

Stop/Start Vehicles - From 2010 MY
Activation of the Terrain Response special programs will deactivate the Stop/Start system.
However, if Terrain Response is activated when the engine is shutdown in a Stop/Start cycle the engine will automatically
restart. If during this event the Stop/Start system cannot detect the driver's occupancy, for example either the driver’s
safety belt or door is unlatched, the engine will not restart. The Stop/Start system will request the driver to depress the
clutch to restart the engine. The driver will be informed of this by ‘RESTART REQUIRED PRESS CLUTCH’ being displayed in
the message center. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I’d also comment that a new battery is not necessarily a fully charged battery and normal use of the car will also not fully charge the battery either.

Cruise control works on my 14 reg even when HDC is on. I tried it recently going down a steep hill and you can control the rate of decent with the cruise buttons. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Dorsetfreelander you are right that, in HDC, the buttons control the descent speed limit, but as far as I know they do not control the minimum speed as they do when used in Cruise Control.

2014 Handbook Page 80

HDC OPERATION
With HDC engaged, the speed of descent can
be altered using the cruise control steering
wheel switches, as follows:
• To increase speed press and hold the +
switch (2) until the desired speed is
achieved.
• To decrease speed press and hold the -
switch (3) until the desired speed is
achieved.
When the switch is released, the selected
speed will be maintained.
To increase or decrease speed gradually, tap
the + or - switch as required. Each tap of the
switch will increase/decrease the speed in
increments/decrements of 0.5 km/h (0.3 mph).
The accelerator pedal can also be used to
increase speed, up to the threshold in each
gear.

Descent speed will only increase on a slope
steep enough to provide additional
momentum. Therefore, use of the + switch on
a gentle slope may not increase the speed.

http://www.axelzone.ro/car/lr/fl2_handbook_2012.pdf

(I used this method of control at my LR Experience Day) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks all, I maybe further forwards.....
Upon further inspection I have found that the clutch stop (when the clutch is fully up) has been broken and someone has welded a nut and threaded a bolt in for the clutch stop. I adjusted the bolt to alow the clutch to come up further and it seems to work intermittently. I have borrowed a autologic to have a check to see what’s happening. The only thing I can find is the clutch position when fully up only goes to 79%. How high is the pedal supposed to be? Level with the brake pedal or slightly higher? Any help much appreciated. Thanks all

I don't know if it is relevant, but a slipping clutch or flywheel might also prevent the cruise control operating properly. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

There are 3 switches in the clutch area that interact with the Stop/Start and Cruise Control.

Items 10, 11,12.




Linear Clutch Sensor
To ensure an engine restart during a Stop/Start cycle does not delay the getaway demands of city driving, the engine is
restarted in approximately 800 milliseconds. This is achieved through the linear clutch sensor triggering an engine restart
when the clutch pedal is at the start of its downward travel. So while the driver continues to depress the clutch through
the rest of its travel the engine restart is already in progress.
The linear clutch sensor is a PLCD (permanent magnet linear contactless displacement) type and is located on the clutch
master cylinder and hardwired to the CJB. The sensor provides the CJB with a continuous input of the clutch pedal’s
position; this information is relayed to the ECM on the high-speed CAN bus. The ‘top of travel’ signal is used to authorize
an automatic engine restart if all other system conditions are approved.
The linear clutch sensor also provides a ‘bottom of travel’ signal near the end of the clutch pedal’s travel. This signal is
used if the engine stalls and is a requirement to authorize a stall recovery. This is unique function that allows the engine
to restart automatically if all other system conditions are approved. For additional information refer to the Stall Recovery
section, below.
A magnet inside the clutch master cylinder provides the position indicator for the linear clutch sensor. For this reason, if
the master cylinder is replaced the correct replacement master cylinder must be identified and fitted.

The two existing clutch position-switches, located on the clutch pedal housing and used as inputs for various vehicle
systems, are also utilized by the Stop/Start system for plausibility checks.

If a fault develops with the linear clutch sensor a DTC will be logged in the CJB.
• NOTE: The Stop/Start system will not function correctly if the driver rests their foot on the clutch pedal while driving the
vehicle.
 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks ianmetro, after more exploring on the autologic I found the clutch position switch displayed as a percentage in the body control module. With the clutch fully up it shows 28% as a position and fully down it shows 108% so in my mind it’s leading to a master cylinder? As you said above the sensor is in the master cylinder. Out of interest where did you get your info from? I can’t find a workshop manual anywhere!!

I think I may have cracked it!! Just been to Cambridge, when the vehicles warm the clutch position shows 21% and everything works as it should, so my guess is the master cylinder is tight, when cold it isn’t returning properly. Thanks

I wonder if a fluid change would help.

Handbooks, etc - courtesy of alex_pescaru

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html

Direct Link to Repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams. (pdf and fully searchable via 'find on page')

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Exellent, thanks for those links, I shall have a good read up

I have the same problem after changing the whole ansamble of the clutch pedal. First, did not start. Broken pedal. Replace , tough job as in manual writes that you have to get out the whole instrument board. LHD. Manage to change only by desmantling steering columne.Now clutch works well mechanically. No start stop, no cruise control, no start. Very weird simptom apeared. The car i manual BUT NOW STARTS ONLY WHEN I DEPRESS BRAKE PEDAL AFTER THE CLUTCH PEDAL.

Today it was raining and snowing so I had time to look at the error codes. I found it with a Delphi multi-brand tester. C1108, C1A41 codes that say that the 5V voltage, probably the one that passes through the switches on the clutch pedal is missing or is too low.
B10AC, B10A2, B10AE, these would be Start / Stop codes. Start / Stop worked when I could not start the car from the button but directly from the start relay. It doesn't work now. I will check the 5V from clutch pedal switches if not good, ground point contact.
In service manual say that after changing one of clutch switch it must be configured. This cannot be true.

Last edited by bomeo on 7th Apr 2021 5:17 pm. Edited 2 times in total