Hi, gasman I did mention the cable damage previously under the lower air filter housing, I watched again the YouTube video of it last night, I do really think you should just check yours as a precaution.

Yesterday while out shopping a freelander 2 owner on the supermarket carpark had the bonnet up, a 57 plate, he said he’d been waiting over two hours for the aa patrol to arrive, his none start and other none starts plus poor running previously had driven him to reject his car from a dealer, now the dealer called the aa out to sort him out. Not the dealer to come out, I wouldn’t have been amused, purchasing a car from a reputable dealer with a workshop plus breakdown recovery.

I asked if it was okay for me to have a look, low and behold damaged cables under the housing.
I explained this could/might be your problem as he said it’s intermittent only when he washes his car, in fact yesterday morning he did.
The aa patrol arrived and I explained and showed him the damage, he repaired the cables and hey presto it started.
He cut and re soldered all the cables 7 in all. Cable tied the loom away from the housing leg.

I said mine was the same and showed him the re routed cabling.

Only advice but one good thing “ It’s free” and not from a stealer dealer...!

Hi Davyboy
I did reply to your post regarding the cable loom under the air box. I checked mine and it looks fine.
Just in case I have misunderstood your comment I have taken a photo of what I think was the cables.
Let me know what you think please.




On another note, still waiting for the cam position sensor.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hi, yes that’s the loom in question did you check around others while inspecting? Just hope it is the sensor, these faults are a pain, the 57 plated one I mentioned those cables were well damaged and by the look of them they had been like that for some time.

Just noticed your from Tyneside, just come home from Gateshead fire station and was at Cramlington west Hartford control room, and Darlington fire station yesterday. Been on call for a week.
Back yo my fl2 tomorrow

Hi Davyboy

I have checked the other wiring, best I can, all seems well.
I have the cam sensor now, just waiting for the rain to stop so I can fit it.

Hope things were quiet for you whilst you were up this neck of the woods  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Quick update.

As rain has stopped briefly, have managed to get the camshaft sensor changed, as suggested by Alex.
Car now starts after a couple of cranks of the starter.

Fist issue now sorted...........many thanks to Alex

Will now move on to the 'turbo boost position sensor' issue. At least I can take it out for a run now and see what trouble kicks off this time.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Another update.

Went to drive car out of the garage this morning, only as fare as the drive, car went into reduced performance.
Literally drove the car 6 metres and P2563 Boost Control Position Sensor A.
As far as I am aware this is related to the MAP sensor but I have already fitted 3. One of which shut down the terrain response system on start up. Surely they cannot all be faulty. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Sorry for asking, but why do you think that this error suggest a MAP sensor problem?
If you ask me, it's about the turbo control module, that module that pushes the turbo actuator arm...
Although you said you cleaned the vanes mechanism and also changed the turbo module...

In the workshop manual they say:
P256373 Turbo charger Boost Control Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
Turbo charger vane actuator stuck closed - unable to reach required position
Check Turbo charger vane actuator mechanism is free from obstruction and carbon build-up

Hi Alex

Thanks for replying.
Last post was just confusion and frustration on my part.

You are correct that everything points to the turbo actuator.
The vanes in the turbo were a little sticky at one point. I purchased a three part turbo cleaner which you inject into the turbo once the exhaust has been disconnected. After doing this the actuator arm moved freely with very little effort.
As the problem still persists I exchanged the actuator module with one I had from my previous turbo from this car. Original turbo failed due to bearing. I was informed that the module would be a straight swap, no coding required. I have just read an article from a turbo repair company that this will not work, do not know if that is true.
If I can bench test the original modules motor I will put it back.

I have read many articles on this issue in several forums but few appear to post a resolution to the problem.
Unfortunately this forum appears to be one of the worst offenders. Very few people want to get there hands dirty and the car ends up at a dealers and they just through lots of parts at the problem until it is fixed.

Would appreciate any suggestions.

When the rain stops I will get under and check the turbo actuator arm again for any resistance. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Another update for the few people who are interested.

Bad news is the poor starting is back, complete with some white/grey smoke.
I am assuming the smoke is due to the engine being cranked for a long time before starting, therefore unburnt diesel.

Good news is the turbo appears to be working again. Cannot be one hundred percent as haven't been any real distance yet.

Went back under the car again on Monday as the rain/snow had stopped. Disconnected the exhaust from turbo, again. Released the turbo actuator and refitted the original actuator motor.
Decided to see if I could clean any more crud from inside the turbo, even though the actuator appeared to move freely.
Now in the past I have tried many commercially available turbo cleaners with only moderate success and varying amounts of outlay.

This time I did what I should have done in the first place........fill the turbo with Mr Muscular oven cleaner. Used the straw applicator from the large WD40 tin and fitted this to the oven cleaner can. Managed to locate the straw through the turbine blades and filled it up. As it started to foam up I sealed the open end of the turbo with an old duster to prevent it running out.

Did this several times over a four hour period whilst actively working the actuator leaver to work the stuff into the Variable Geometry Ring.
Put everything back together and started the car.
Let it warm up on tick over for several minutes, Then floored the accelerator a couple of times. Wished I had placed something behind the car as a fairly large oily/sooty slick was discharged onto the drive.

Took the car for a drive whilst using a mixture of hard and gentle accelerations to to work the VGT and all appeared to be well without any limp mode.
Been driving now for three days with no turbo related issues so far.

Should have used the Mr. Muscle in the first place as I have been using it for years to clean the EGR valves on all the Renault Clio DCI's we have owned. As long as you protect or rinse any aluminium parts it appears to be harmless to metals.

So just need to look again at the very poor starting issue.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hello gasman, I think it’s good news regarding the turbo, think I would be a bit dubious with the mr muscle but I have seen this on YouTube with egr valves. Not sure where you can go with the poor starting as mine seems far better in fact similar to when it was new with very frosty starts.

1, New battery varta f19. With higher cca.
2, Purflux air and fuel filters
3, Egr blanking plate with a 2mm hole drilled.
4, Extra large truck size earth cable from negative battery post to starter bolt.
5, Oil catch can,
6, Castrol gtx A5 5w/40 engine oil and filter.
7, Wynns turbo cleaner and Shell V max fuel every fill up.
8, Genuine cam and crank sensors, air flow and map sensors.

I have done such a lot of “try this, try that” the car starts at minus 5.5 with no issues. This summer is the inlet manifold off to remove the swirl flaps and the glow plugs.

Now the oil catch which I think is an excellent idea with the higher mileage cars, I fitted this can September 2020, at 133,000 miles, the can has been on now for 2500 miles and has stopped approximately a serving size spoon of oil, have now started to record the miles against quantity caught. I did remove the egr pipe with the plate in. Previously in September it was gunked up but now it’s clear and dry.
Will keep the forum posted with quantity over miles covered.

Rgds

Davyboy.

Hi davyboy, thanks for the reply.

Battery is only couple of years old
Have the extra earth's, with the one to the starter bolt.
New filters fitted 2019, Bosch I think. Have only done couple of thousand miles since.
Sensors are not from Landrover but are the recommended equivalent as listed on the forum.
Glow plugs were changed 2019, nothing wrong with old ones, apparently, but were 10 years old.
Also have the EGR blank plate with the small hole in it.

Will have to check to see if there are any new codes.
It's cold and wet and don't really want to go out.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Is it possible that the coolant temperature sensor could have failed and is preventing the glow plugs from operating.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hello, well yes to the coolant sensor, I measured mine with a multimeter against another vehicle I was able to compare and the readings were exactly the same and this particular vehicle didn’t have any issues as it was a fire officers car for Hereford and Worcester frs. I was there working for a week and had access to their pool cars, the majority were same age to mine.
I think it’s a cable issue somewhere, maybe a poorly crimped joint, I spent a week in the summer checking every cable from the nearside footwell to front bumper and found a couple of wiring looms with a white powdery substance on the cables. I cleaned them individually and took my time, also found a couple of multi plugs not quite clicked together and they are from original factory build

Like I recently mentioned my car starts as it did when new but because Iv spent time money and effort I cannot say exactly what the fault actually was. But what I can say is that the glow plugs are original and swirl flaps not touched.

Faults like these are a brain teaser and also time consuming especially with winter months weather dripping down your neck but keep at it and try everything you can think of, but most importantly don’t let it beat you.

Hi davyboy

Thanks for the encouragement. I won't be beaten by this but as you say could take time, especially in this weather. Must be nice to have a garage big enough to work in.
Going to have to leave the Freelander for now as I have other car troubles to deal with.
We have a Renault Clio as a run-a-round for shorter journeys and it has just suffered a broken front spring.
Thanks to our local authority using its allocation of tarmac to build humps in the road instead of fixing the potholes.
So having to get on with that for now.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Have been a bit busy with repairing the suspension on the other car and the fact the weather is so bad.

However the good news is I think the turbo issue is now sorted.
I have used several products over the months to try and sort this and the one that appears to be the most effective is also the cheapest " Mr. Muscle Oven Cleaner". Safe to use as long as you protect yourself and any aluminium components and completely flush it out after..
I have not been on any long runs yet (not allowed) but I have just done anther 'Turbo, EGR, & Air Path Dynamic Test' and this time it passed.


Still have the poor starting to sort though.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.