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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Just an update, I solved the rough start the car was giving me after I removed the swirl flaps. I replaced the diesel filter, air must have been getting in somewhere through the connections either in or out of the old filter,

Post #376384 7th Aug 2019 9:02 am
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Walenut



Member Since: 17 Jun 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Lago Grey

Follow up to my manifold installation as well. Tested the old glow plugs & one was duff. Noted that I'm getting an increase of about 5 MPG mixed urban. Which I wasn't expecting.

As mentioned previously I have also replace the fuel filter, air filter & blanked the ERG. The fuel filter is replaced bi annually & the air filter annually. Not particularly dirty.

I did wonder if the swirl flaps upset the fuel flow effecting the MPG some how. Bit like porting, removing them. Probably a combination of everything but a good result. I use the higher grade fuel as well.

Post #376406 7th Aug 2019 2:22 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

It would seem that the smooth running was short lived... my Freelander 2 has started to idle roughly on a regular basis. I’m wracking my brain as to where I may have gone wrong as it ran really well prior to the swirl flap removal. I’m guessing maybe an air leak somewhere???

Post #376561 10th Aug 2019 2:28 am
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Bit of a further update on the rough start and occasional hiccup the car was suffering after I had removed the flaps. I happened to have the car idling when I noticed a series of air bubbles go through the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter to the injector rail, this was followed shortly after by several brief hiccups of the engine. Suspecting it’s the o rings in the connection out of the fuel filter I put a temporary o ring in and wrapped the outside of the connection in plumbers tape. It’s working, the car now starts as it should and idles without missing. I will look to now replace the connection with a new one.

Post #376915 17th Aug 2019 3:30 am
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Walenut



Member Since: 17 Jun 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Lago Grey

Thanks Luke. Good one to know. I was wondering how long the seals would last in the filter connections seeing as the filter is changed relatively often. I did have an O ring in my last filter kit but couldn't see where it went. Thumbs Up

Post #376959 18th Aug 2019 8:45 am
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markyzs180



Member Since: 26 Jun 2018
Location: Solihull
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HST Auto Stornoway Grey

Just changed the glow plugs in mine (2008 - 120,000 miles) so picked up an evoque flapless intake to put in having read through this thread. On removing the original intake I found all four flaps in place and in good condition! Brass bar had no play and the actuator appeared to be working fine! I put the evoque one in anyway though.

Post #391748 28th May 2020 11:05 pm
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kiwiNCFC



Member Since: 14 Jun 2020
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 23

United Kingdom 

Hey guys,

Does anyone know what 'extras' are needed when removing swirl flaps? I'm keeping existing manifold and going to remove the flaps. I presume I need the seals for the intake. Anything else?

Post #394919 1st Aug 2020 3:54 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Just the inlet manifold seals for where it connects onto the head (there is 8 of them from memory, 4 o rings and 4 rectangular looking ones). I would be very tempted to do the glow plugs while you are there if they have never been replaced before and have some sealant also on hand for blocking up the hole where the little actuator that controls the flaps is located.

Post #394937 1st Aug 2020 9:45 pm
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kiwiNCFC



Member Since: 14 Jun 2020
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 23

United Kingdom 

Thanks that's very helpful! I will do the glow plugs too! Just need to find the seals now, anyone got some part numbers? eBay just throws up random seals

Post #394974 2nd Aug 2020 7:47 pm
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AndyP



Member Since: 09 May 2007
Location: Reading
Posts: 96

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Sumatra Black

AF Factors, site. Sponsor has some parts diagrams.

Post #394975 2nd Aug 2020 7:51 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Try lr005364.

Post #394976 2nd Aug 2020 7:53 pm
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kiwiNCFC



Member Since: 14 Jun 2020
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 23

United Kingdom 

That's a great site! Thanks guys!

Post #394980 2nd Aug 2020 8:47 pm
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MRRover75



Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

Norway 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame

Hi all,

I have just bougth a second hand inlet manifold that has 70k miles on the clock. My car has 178k miles done. EGR blanked since 130k miles, so the plan is to replace the manifold on a preventive basis. I have inspected the flaps on the "new" manifold. looks like all of them is in one piece, standing in the open position. I find some play between the shaft and manifold body. Is this normal or should the shaft be sitting firmly in the "bearings" in the body? I will inspect it closer. Not sure what to do. After reading this thread, I am not sure if my old manifold is that bad after all??

Post #399017 28th Oct 2020 7:10 am
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Walenut



Member Since: 17 Jun 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Lago Grey

I don’t think I’d be adding a manifold with swirl flaps? 🤔

Post #399024 28th Oct 2020 11:06 am
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1769

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

MRRover75 wrote:
Hi all,

I have just bougth a second hand inlet manifold that has 70k miles on the clock. My car has 178k miles done. EGR blanked since 130k miles, so the plan is to replace the manifold on a preventive basis. I have inspected the flaps on the "new" manifold. looks like all of them is in one piece, standing in the open position. I find some play between the shaft and manifold body. Is this normal or should the shaft be sitting firmly in the "bearings" in the body? I will inspect it closer. Not sure what to do. After reading this thread, I am not sure if my old manifold is that bad after all??


Remove the swirl flaps from the replacement manifold, as follows.
Start by popping off the coupling where the vacuum actuator links to the lever, and pull off the pipe. Then turn the vacuum actuator anticlockwise (note its fitted position) and remove it. Pull the spring clip off the actuator lever, then pull the lever out the manifold.
Inside you'll see a 1/8th" square shaft. This shaft needs pulling out the manifold (it'll be stiff) but as it comes out, the swirl flaps will become free and fall out. Make sure you have all the flaps and set aside. Now put the lever back into the manifold, securing with the previously removed clip. Refit the vacuum actuator, so the pipe is blocked again. It won't do anything now, but it'll look standard. Job done.
The rest is putting the manifold back on. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. My daily driver.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Post #399034 28th Oct 2020 2:02 pm
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