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OWF

Member Since: 05 Jul 2020
Location: Bucks
Posts: 12

2011 Freelander 2 SD4 Sport Auto Santorini Black

Ok,

Tested battery, was at 10.56. Disconnected battery was instantly at 12.47.

Connected again, back down to 10.56. Wife pressed start button, down to mid 8 region, didn't start.

Key out, back up to 10.5 area. Then it started to go up slowly. Checked again a little while later, was over 11.5.
Tried to start again, dropped below 9 again and didn't start.

If it's over 12 disconnected and drops immediately, is it the battery of something draining in the car?

6th Jul 2020 7:45 pm

TooBlue

Member Since: 30 Oct 2019
Location: Midlands
Posts: 261

How old is the battery?

If it is more than 3-4 years old it will be due for replacement.

6th Jul 2020 8:07 pm

OWF

Member Since: 05 Jul 2020
Location: Bucks
Posts: 12

18 months old with a 5 year warranty! If won't be able to find the bloody receipt!

6th Jul 2020 8:31 pm

TooBlue

Member Since: 30 Oct 2019
Location: Midlands
Posts: 261

It does sound like a faulty battery.

Has the car been left for a long time without use? (During lockdown)

If the battery is allowed to discharge below 12v, it will shorten the life of the battery.

The only real way to prove is to fully charge the battery, and then get it tested.

6th Jul 2020 8:49 pm

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

OWF wrote:
Ok,

Tested battery, was at 10.56. Disconnected battery was instantly at 12.47.

Connected again, back down to 10.56. Wife pressed start button, down to mid 8 region, didn't start.

Key out, back up to 10.5 area. Then it started to go up slowly. Checked again a little while later, was over 11.5.
Tried to start again, dropped below 9 again and didn't start.

If it's over 12 disconnected and drops immediately, is it the battery of something draining in the car?

OWF,

Two options

1. that battery is finished and needs to be replaced

2. You have an electrical problem that is consuming over 100 Amps

When the engine is running and you switch on everything the entire system consumes less than the 180 Amps that the alternator is rated for.

Almost every sub system will blow a fuse if it draws over 100 Amps

The exception to this is a faulty starter motor, it could consume a lot of power if the solenoid is sticking.

Another item that can consume a lot of power is the electric fan at the radiator.

If you don't have a major fault with the starter or fan then the battery is likely done.

Good luck

Paul

6th Jul 2020 8:52 pm

OWF

Member Since: 05 Jul 2020
Location: Bucks
Posts: 12

Thanks,

I changed the starter and when it was jumped the starter seemed fine. It also started ok after the jump when I turned it off and on again a few times one after the other to see if it worked.

Just seems odd the battery would drop so much just being hooked up with no key in the ignition....

6th Jul 2020 9:08 pm

Wonderdust

Member Since: 23 Mar 2020
Location: Bucks
Posts: 138

2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Santorini Black

Sounds like a couple of dead cells if your battery is falling to 8 volts.

6th Jul 2020 9:50 pm

OWF

Member Since: 05 Jul 2020
Location: Bucks
Posts: 12

So I've just had a jumper pack on the car (mate is a green keeper and they use it for the tractors etc) it's a beefy 12v jumper and it didn't start the car. Same clicking.

All fuses pulled and no change to the battery voltage (except slowly back up to around 11.5v as before)

Battery tested out of the car and showed over 12v...

Going back to the starter motor....?

7th Jul 2020 4:31 pm

Wonderdust

Member Since: 23 Mar 2020
Location: Bucks
Posts: 138

How are you testing the battery out of the car? If you are not load testing it then your test means nothing.

7th Jul 2020 5:16 pm

TooBlue

Member Since: 30 Oct 2019
Location: Midlands
Posts: 261

OWF wrote:
Going back to the starter motor....?

Could be a faulty starter motor, or a bad earth.

I think you said you replaced the starter, but new parts can be faulty.

7th Jul 2020 5:33 pm

IanMetro

Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2770

2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

Are you certain that it not just a dud cell in the battery giving high resistance, and little real capacity. This is a common reason why batteries appear to fully charge but have little or no real power.

I can't see that you have tried another proven battery, so I believe you are wasting your time doing anything until you do. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

7th Jul 2020 5:39 pm

Wonderdust

Member Since: 23 Mar 2020
Location: Bucks
Posts: 138

^^^

Agreed, until you know you have a battery that is a 100% you will not get a true result, get yourself a brand new battery.

7th Jul 2020 6:37 pm

OWF

Member Since: 05 Jul 2020
Location: Bucks
Posts: 12

Even if it doesn't start with a heavy duty jump pack?

I'll see if I can get a good battery from a mate and give it a try.

7th Jul 2020 9:35 pm

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

OWF,

Disconnect the negative lead from the battery and only connect the jumper pack.

This will eliminate your battery as a source for the drain.

Don't try to start your Freel2 just dock the key and turn on the headlights, radio, etc. and measure the voltage.

Does the Voltage drop still?

Let us know.

If the voltage is significantly more stable then your battery is bad

Take care

Paul

7th Jul 2020 10:15 pm

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

Did you find the root cause???

10th Jul 2020 3:30 am

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