My newly acquired 2009 Freelander has some corrosion on the subframes noted on the advisories on the last MOT and looking underneath it looks dry and rusty so my plan is to spray a rust converter underneath to stop the corrosion and then spray some protection maybe waxoil or something just looking for advice on which products might be best

Bilt Hamber

 Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

worth a read ....

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33914.html?highlight=rust

click on above.......
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Kurust is a good rust stabiliser. Have used it for years. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Jenolite is good.

We are discussing this in the jag forum:
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-3-Step-Stop-Rust-System Guy Pensa
Cars with Personalities
Getting itchy. What's next?
2014 Land Rover HSE Lux (blend of practicality and aggressiveness)
2007 XKR (Jaguar Racing Green) (woo hoo!)
2004 XJR (Jaguar Racing Green) (deceased)
2002 S-Type R (British Racing Green, of course)
1951 Riley RMD (Black, time for that restoration)

Big believer in Por15........the prep is the key to it being successful. Just don't let in dry on your skin........

I'm very interested in this. However, how careful do you have to be with the application? Is it going to ruin things if applied to the wrong places? My car has a reasonable amount of corrosion which would be nice to halt as I plan on keeping the car, but, I'm not the neatest person in the world and wouldn't want to destroy the car 😅😅 Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

A few tips with Por15, the actual rust product, not including the prep materials or top coat. A small can can go along way so it may be better to buy many smaller cans because once opened the produce does start drying. If you get the product on the rim of the can you will likely destroy the can trying to open it again (after say 24 hours) and it's pricey. I tried shrinkwrap under the can cover and it worked for one more open. If it dries on skin, depending how much, it will take multiple weeks to come off, ask me how I know. Also, the product is UV sensitive so fine as an undercoat but needs to be sealed with a top coat if exposed to direct sunlight.

To do it right, the prep is a lot of painstaking work: get all the loose rust off, degrease, wash off & let dry then metal prep, wash off, let almost dry then the actual product (going by memory). Here is a decent video:
https://youtu.be/8_ckBJxW6mU

If you are just looking for a two to three year fix, get all the loose rust off, wash with degreaser then water, let dry 100% and then apply the product, two coats. You will need disposable gloves, a respirator (even if you are in an open area) and a drop sheet (if you apply it too thick it will slowly drip and take a while to dry). It took me two days to do the undercarriage of a previous vehicle and the air temp and humidity are also factors.

Well worth it but a PITA and patience really is virtuous

Thanks for that detailed reply. Doesn't sound like a process I would do particularly well! Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Vactan provides great results, many narrow boat owners
swear by it.